Type oil and capacity

[Harris48cars]

Is 20/50 VR1 valvoline oil too thick for a 396 engine. And what would be the capacity with a stock oil pan and filter. Thanks guys

 

[FS87LT]

IF you want all of the possible power to get to the flywheel, 20W-50 is too thick. Use the 10W-30 version instead. With a PF35-equivalent oil filter on a "car" oil pan, it should be a 5 qt oil change, I suspect. There are more-capacity pans for other applications. But DO check the dipstick level after the 5 qt oil and filter change, for good measure.

Are you looking at the "dino" or "syn" VR-1 oils? Just curious.

FS87LT

 

[Harris48cars]

Dino

 

[krabben1]

Your car might like a 10-40 better.Ive been using the castrol mineral stuff with the lucas zinc additive in my 468.
It's also cheapest(for me anyway)from amazon to my door.

 

[AEGIS43]

Your car might like a 10-40 better.Ive been using the castrol mineral stuff with the lucas zinc additive in my 468.
It's also cheapest(for me anyway)from amazon to my door.

I don't have an opinion, so this is just a question. With modern heads, or valvetrain components in original heads, i.e., hardened seats, bronze valve guides, etc., what is the significance of using zinc additives? And more specifically, also with an engine that is already properly broken in, or has a roller cam?

Despite what all the old timers and OGs say, most of the rest of the gearhead world says that modern oils are pretty good. Better than 30+ years ago.

BTW - I'm running Valvoline SAE 10-40 in my 385 sbc

 

[sandlapper]

The Zinc & Phosphorus Wear Package is primarily of importance to flat tappets and cam lobes for flat tappets

where the lifter to cam interface SLIDES: it needs more Zn+P
where the lifter to cam interface ROLLS: it needs less Zn+P

 

[krabben1]

I don't have an opinion, so this is just a question. With modern heads, or valvetrain components in original heads, i.e., hardened seats, bronze valve guides, etc., what is the significance of using zinc additives? And more specifically, also with an engine that is already properly broken in, or has a roller cam?

Despite what all the old timers and OGs say, most of the rest of the gearhead world says that modern oils are pretty good. Better than 30+ years ago.

BTW - I'm running Valvoline SAE 10-40 in my 385 sbc

I read 396 engine,no details,so instantly assumed old architecture,like my 1988 468.
"
The Zinc & Phosphorus Wear Package is primarily of importance to flat tappets and cam lobes for flat tappets

where the lifter to cam interface SLIDES: it needs more Zn+P
where the lifter to cam interface ROLLS: it needs less Zn+P"

 

[FS87LT]

The current spec SP-rated oils are supposed to have 900ppm zddp in them, which is only 100ppm away from the old "SL" rating zddp level of 1000ppm, which is supposed to be the low-limit for a flat tappet engine and VWs which run the efi pump off of a cam lobe.

If GM used to recommend "SM" oil for the 427/430 crate motor (which had been run at the engine plant, i.e. "hot tested", which also meant it had done the 30 minutes run time on a dyno stand after assy.), which was 800ppm zddp, then the modern SP oils (especially the syn ones) might do just fine in a "used" flat tappet motor with a big street cam in it? Proceed at your own risk.

FS87LT

 

[krabben1]

The current spec SP-rated oils are supposed to have 900ppm zddp in them, which is only 100ppm away from the old "SL" rating zddp level of 1000ppm, which is supposed to be the low-limit for a flat tappet engine and VWs which run the efi pump off of a cam lobe.

If GM used to recommend "SM" oil for the 427/430 crate motor (which had been run at the engine plant, i.e. "hot tested", which also meant it had done the 30 minutes run time on a dyno stand after assy.), which was 800ppm zddp, then the modern SP oils (especially the syn ones) might do just fine in a "used" flat tappet motor with a big street cam in it? Proceed at your own risk.

FS87LT

This post makes zero sense,unless the goal is to hear yourself talk.
To suggest you dont need zinc in a flat tappet motor,end that with a question mark,and then say procede at your own risk is hilarious.
And by no means good advice to those that dont know better.

 

[sandlapper]

This post makes zero sense,unless the goal is to hear yourself talk.
To suggest you dont need zinc in a flat tappet motor,end that with a question mark,and then say procede at your own risk is hilarious.
And by no means good advice to those that dont know better.

The current spec SP-rated oils are supposed to have 900ppm zddp in them, which is only 100ppm away from the old "SL" rating zddp level of 1000ppm, which is supposed to be the low-limit for a flat tappet engine and VWs which run the efi pump off of a cam lobe.

If GM used to recommend "SM" oil for the 427/430 crate motor (which had been run at the engine plant, i.e. "hot tested", which also meant it had done the 30 minutes run time on a dyno stand after assy.), which was 800ppm zddp, then the modern SP oils (especially the syn ones) might do just fine in a "used" flat tappet motor with a big street cam in it? Proceed at your own risk.

FS87LT