So I need to start putting a plan in place to restore my car. Im trying my best to keep it a rolling project for as long as I can. The motor runs great. With the exception of the transmission the car is mechanically sound. Brakes work fine, cheap new tires were added temporarily on the stocker 14" wheels. So what do I tackle next and in what order do I proceed? The entire interior needs to be done head to toe. The seats have no holes or rips and is livable if I need to do other things first. The body is is pretty good shape, the lower right quarter needs to be replaces as well as the lower rear valance below the bumper. The rest of the bodywork will just need to be stripped down to metal, prepped for paint and then of course new paint. The electrical is ok as everything works but probably needs to be tidied up a bit. Any help would be appreciated as I have never restored a car before. Thanks.
Order of Restoration?
- Thread starter Rider1970
- Start date
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larrylarry
Veteran Member
Do interior last you might change your mind on the color of the exterior/ paint. Keep it drivable at least to where you can turn it around. I don't like sanding filler in my garage, I'd back it onto the driveway for any of that. You need to have an area to store the things you take off such as hood,fenders,seats that's safe from damage. As far as an order I didn't have any, but anything I started I did finish. I think that's more important than an order.
72Heaven
Veteran Member
I make them safe first. Check the subframe mounting points, and replace bushings and do a really good check for rust in structural areas (if none; go on).
Next, suspension and brakes. I know you said it was good mechanically but when was the last time anyone did front end work? Are those brake hoses 20, 30 years old? How about the master cylinder? Do you want four wheel disc brakes? Are the springs still doing their job? Shocks? Do you want better performance than was state of the art 40+ years ago?
If so, now is the time to fix those things...bigger brakes (this may dictate what size wheels), larger sway bars, shock absorbers that keep modern rubber on the ground.
How about wheels and tires? Do you want stock or bigger...how much? Better decide before the body is done...
Okay so it turns, and stops, and hopefully stays on the road. Now it's time to make it look pretty. If there is that much rust in the back, (quarter and valance) you may have some hidden in the trunk drops, outer wheelhouses and maybe the trunk (it could be fine) do some digging, find out what needs to be removed at the inner most point and work out. Is the paint a total loss, or really thick, flaking, bondo popping etc? You may not want to strip it completely, it could be sanded and used for a base without stripping the whole car (again your preference, consult with someone who knows and can see it in person!)
I'd do the weather strip and glass next, electrical after that, finally the interior (keep as much as you can until you KNOW you don't need it, some stuff is hard to come by and/or will just slow you down if you have to track it down)
Really broad and vague but I hope that helps.
Next, suspension and brakes. I know you said it was good mechanically but when was the last time anyone did front end work? Are those brake hoses 20, 30 years old? How about the master cylinder? Do you want four wheel disc brakes? Are the springs still doing their job? Shocks? Do you want better performance than was state of the art 40+ years ago?
If so, now is the time to fix those things...bigger brakes (this may dictate what size wheels), larger sway bars, shock absorbers that keep modern rubber on the ground.
How about wheels and tires? Do you want stock or bigger...how much? Better decide before the body is done...
Okay so it turns, and stops, and hopefully stays on the road. Now it's time to make it look pretty. If there is that much rust in the back, (quarter and valance) you may have some hidden in the trunk drops, outer wheelhouses and maybe the trunk (it could be fine) do some digging, find out what needs to be removed at the inner most point and work out. Is the paint a total loss, or really thick, flaking, bondo popping etc? You may not want to strip it completely, it could be sanded and used for a base without stripping the whole car (again your preference, consult with someone who knows and can see it in person!)
I'd do the weather strip and glass next, electrical after that, finally the interior (keep as much as you can until you KNOW you don't need it, some stuff is hard to come by and/or will just slow you down if you have to track it down)
Really broad and vague but I hope that helps.
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Zspoiler
Veteran Member
I also agree that you make the car safe to drive first. Then you do what you can afford Engine ,Body/paint,Suspension are are expensive,Especially if you make Upgrades/Modifications to the car. Remember that this is a hobby. And such things as life goes on. So don`t stress on it .Its meant to be fun.Good luck to you,
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70-camaro
Veteran Member
I started underneath the car. Removed rearend and gas tank, painted those , new front and rear breaks, fuel and brake lines new rear springs and bushings, body bushings. That was the first winter. That winter I basically worked from the rear of the subframe back. Also if the inside of the trunk and trunk drops are good you can sand and paint the inside in the summer while you drive it. Lots of small things you can do while driving it. As Zspoiler said make it enjoyable.
Thanks, this helps a lot. There is no rust at all. Its a California car. Those panels need to be replaced due to bondo. I plan on going to 17 inc wheel so slightly larger brakes might be in the works, but definitely adding power brakes and converting the rear drums to rotors. As far as suspension, I want better than OEM but I don't need to go with coilovers, especially on a car that will be primarily just for cruising.
Is this a hobby? Restore and sell? If so, do just sections at a time.
This is project and a keeper....for now anyway.
It's been my experience that there is rust under the front subframe mounting pad on the body regardless of 'rust free' status. Any place that used a rubber shock pad is suspect. The vent door inside the car is rusted as well. Those spots were not properly prepped at the factory to withstand long-term usage. Here are a few places...
This is one of the subframe mounts...
Frame radiator support...
Probably some under the spring tulip panel..
Where the leaves and dirt accumulates in the lower body area near the door...
hot72rod
Veteran Member
Here's a question for you. Do you plan to repaint the underside of the car or are you going to leave it as is?
