KEVS80-Z28
Veteran Member
The second line is your gas tank vent line. On my 80 it went to the evaporator canister.not sure for your year car.
Jon's 1970 never ending project!!!
- Thread starter jondebo
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links like Ebay, Amazon, and others.
jondebo
Veteran Member
Yep, ur right. Thanks! Looking in the factory assembly diagrams it is the Evaporative Emission Control Vent Pipe hose. . I forgot that they had already started with the early smog stuff in 1970.
jondebo
Veteran Member
Update
So, still plugging away. Not making too much in the way of progress but the car is still on the radar. Here are the current issues:
1) Where to locate the remote master cylinder for my hydraulic clutch? I have the wilwood 1" bore master and I'm using the small resevoir. The resevoir comes with a plastic mounting bracket but I'm not really finding a good place, that is close to the master, to place the bracket and resevoir. I'll see if I can get some pics up of the mock up tonight so you can see what I mean. Any suggestions?
2) I've shimmed the clutch master's mounting bracket away from the frame using washers. This is just for the purposes of mocking it up to center it and to get the measurements. What do you think I should use for a permanent spacer? I could take the measurements to a machine shop and have them make me spacers out of steel. Any ideas? I may have to space it out about a half of an inch. Any issues you can see here as far as strength, flexing goes?
3) In replacing the brake lines I've decided to not replace the vapor return line that runs parallel to the brake line on the driver's side of my car. I've been told that I can just cap the return line output at the gas tank and install a vented cap. What should I cap it with? Is this a good way to go? I really don't want a charcol canister in my engine compartment and would rather not run a line all the way from the gas tank to the engine comparment if I don't need to.
Anyway, I will put some more pics up in the coming days.
So, still plugging away. Not making too much in the way of progress but the car is still on the radar. Here are the current issues:
1) Where to locate the remote master cylinder for my hydraulic clutch? I have the wilwood 1" bore master and I'm using the small resevoir. The resevoir comes with a plastic mounting bracket but I'm not really finding a good place, that is close to the master, to place the bracket and resevoir. I'll see if I can get some pics up of the mock up tonight so you can see what I mean. Any suggestions?
2) I've shimmed the clutch master's mounting bracket away from the frame using washers. This is just for the purposes of mocking it up to center it and to get the measurements. What do you think I should use for a permanent spacer? I could take the measurements to a machine shop and have them make me spacers out of steel. Any ideas? I may have to space it out about a half of an inch. Any issues you can see here as far as strength, flexing goes?
3) In replacing the brake lines I've decided to not replace the vapor return line that runs parallel to the brake line on the driver's side of my car. I've been told that I can just cap the return line output at the gas tank and install a vented cap. What should I cap it with? Is this a good way to go? I really don't want a charcol canister in my engine compartment and would rather not run a line all the way from the gas tank to the engine comparment if I don't need to.
Anyway, I will put some more pics up in the coming days.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links like Ebay, Amazon, and others.
jondebo
Veteran Member
Clutch master location
I recently installed a new master cylinder and booster. It's a little tight around the clutch master that I am using so I'm going to use a remote resevoir. I'm trying to find a good mounting location for the res. Where do you think a good mounting location would be?
I recently installed a new master cylinder and booster. It's a little tight around the clutch master that I am using so I'm going to use a remote resevoir. I'm trying to find a good mounting location for the res. Where do you think a good mounting location would be?
Just below the wiper motor on the firewall would be a good area to look at.jondebo said:
jondebo said:
I have the same setup on mine. I made a cheap (free) little bracket and hung it off the MC stud closest to the fender so that the reservoir hangs between the MC and the driver's fender.
LOL.. here's what I used for the bracket (ceiling light mount).... if you're like me... you might have one hanging around in the garage. I ground off the threaded center, cleaned it up with the tin-snips, and painted it up. IIRC, I bent it a little bit (Z'ed) to move the reservoir forward.
jondebo
Veteran Member
POS71RS said:I have the same setup on mine. I made a cheap (free) little bracket and hung it off the MC stud closest to the fender so that the reservoir hangs between the MC and the driver's fender.
LOL.. here's what I used for the bracket (ceiling light mount).... if you're like me... you might have one hanging around in the garage. I ground off the threaded center, cleaned it up with the tin-snips, and painted it up. IIRC, I bent it a little bit (Z'ed) to move the reservoir forward.
Sounds simple enough. I was told by the guy that sold me this kit, Bob Weir, that I should limit the length of the line from the master to the resevoir to relatively short distance. I can't for life of me seem to remember this distance but I want to say it was like 4", which is awefully short.
I also need to shim the clutch master mounting bracket further away from the frame to better align it with the clutch pedal so it doesn't bind. Right now I have it mocked up with washers as spacers. Any ideas on a better way to do this? I thought I would just see if I could get a machine shop to make me some simple spacers.
jondebo
Veteran Member
The car got some early xmas gifts
I finally had enough cash to buy the remaining parts I need to freshen up the brake systems. I decided to go with drum brake in the rear. My god drums are cheap (for good reason) and they will be adequate given the set up I have. I bought all new parking brakes, cables and all related hardwear. I bought new Wilwood D52 calipers for the front along with braided flexible brake lines for the front and back. I already have a set of new slotted/vented rotors for the front. New proportioning valve and metering block and all new stainless lines. They should show up any day now. Can't wait to get wrenchin. Oncen I finish the brakes and the master cylinder, the body goes back on!!!
I finally had enough cash to buy the remaining parts I need to freshen up the brake systems. I decided to go with drum brake in the rear. My god drums are cheap (for good reason) and they will be adequate given the set up I have. I bought all new parking brakes, cables and all related hardwear. I bought new Wilwood D52 calipers for the front along with braided flexible brake lines for the front and back. I already have a set of new slotted/vented rotors for the front. New proportioning valve and metering block and all new stainless lines. They should show up any day now. Can't wait to get wrenchin. Oncen I finish the brakes and the master cylinder, the body goes back on!!!
papapayne
Veteran Member
Looks like a fun project, I like that color combo you went with. Hopefully you will be able to drive it soon!
jondebo
Veteran Member
Parking brake cables......questions
So, I finally got around to putting the new parking brake cables in. I've mocked up the new cables and loosely installed the j hook, connector and the equalizer. I have the parking brake pedal in the fully released position. The kit that I bought came with a long spring (picture) and an extra cable(blurry picture). Do I need these for my 1970? Also, I have the factory assembly manual and they give tension specifications for the cables. What do I use to measure the tension of the cables? I'm not really sure of the procedure for installing the cables. I had the parking brake pedal assembly out of the car. The factory manual says that I need to put a sealant around the bolts that stick out of the fire wall. Should I just use silicon or is there special sealant? Any info would be helpful folks. Thanks!
Underneath shot of cables
The long spring
The extra cable
So, I finally got around to putting the new parking brake cables in. I've mocked up the new cables and loosely installed the j hook, connector and the equalizer. I have the parking brake pedal in the fully released position. The kit that I bought came with a long spring (picture) and an extra cable(blurry picture). Do I need these for my 1970? Also, I have the factory assembly manual and they give tension specifications for the cables. What do I use to measure the tension of the cables? I'm not really sure of the procedure for installing the cables. I had the parking brake pedal assembly out of the car. The factory manual says that I need to put a sealant around the bolts that stick out of the fire wall. Should I just use silicon or is there special sealant? Any info would be helpful folks. Thanks!
Underneath shot of cables
The long spring
The extra cable
