ric28z
Veteran Member
Just recently, while attempting to replace my right hand outer door handle I had need to remove the window winder motor.
Since the motor had stopped working and the glass was stuck half way, I needed to gain access to the door handle and at the same time replace that pesky non working motor.
After much swearing and skin removal I finally worked out how to remove the said motor, along with the mechanism, I tested the new motor, supplied by Rock auto some years ago and looked to work when plugged into the loom.
However on final test of the new motor it refused to work at all.
I tested it with direct current from my removed battery and still nothing, did note some arcing on the batt post as I momentarily touched the jumper wire to post.
Much more swearing ensued. Rock auto are happy to give me a store credit so long as I return the new motor, however since I am in Australia the return shipping was as much as the original purchase.
I figured I would investigate the old motor, cant be too much wrong with it.
From what I can see a clean up of the armature and a new set of brushes would probably do the trick.
Would save all the expense of returning the new motor and the original seems better constructed having a thermal cutout feature built in which seems to be lacking in the Chinese made replacement.
So hoping someone can advise how to diagnose the old motor, am I doing something wrong in trying to bypass the in car circuit and applying battery power direct to the terminals (as suggested by a google search).
Pics of old and new motor attached
Since the motor had stopped working and the glass was stuck half way, I needed to gain access to the door handle and at the same time replace that pesky non working motor.
After much swearing and skin removal I finally worked out how to remove the said motor, along with the mechanism, I tested the new motor, supplied by Rock auto some years ago and looked to work when plugged into the loom.
However on final test of the new motor it refused to work at all.
I tested it with direct current from my removed battery and still nothing, did note some arcing on the batt post as I momentarily touched the jumper wire to post.
Much more swearing ensued. Rock auto are happy to give me a store credit so long as I return the new motor, however since I am in Australia the return shipping was as much as the original purchase.
I figured I would investigate the old motor, cant be too much wrong with it.
From what I can see a clean up of the armature and a new set of brushes would probably do the trick.
Would save all the expense of returning the new motor and the original seems better constructed having a thermal cutout feature built in which seems to be lacking in the Chinese made replacement.
So hoping someone can advise how to diagnose the old motor, am I doing something wrong in trying to bypass the in car circuit and applying battery power direct to the terminals (as suggested by a google search).
Pics of old and new motor attached
