70 Z28 LT1 bogging down-power loss on acceleration - Help please

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70 RPO 28

Veteran Member
Feb 5, 2022
127
Cicero, IN
LT1 350
Mallory Hi-Fire 6 box w/ Series 47 Unilite distributor
AC R43TS plugs
Packard TV-R Suppression wires - look like 7mm(1-Q-68 / these were on it when I bought)
186 angle plug heads
Stock exhaust manifold
The engine was recently rebuilt/refreshed before I bought it a few months ago, and has only been on short trips, without the hood on, as I've worked on the many different things.
Recently put the hood on it, and drove 20 mile round trip to get an exhaust installed (longest it's been on the road since it was all put back together).
On the way home, with the new crappily welded exhaust, it started running rough, especially when accelerating >3000 rpm. Felt like was missing and loosing power.
I pulled several plugs and they are clean...which kind of surprised me. (I expected #7 to possibly be fowled due to clearance issue below)
They #7 plug boot, which pretty much sits right on the exhaust manifold(previous owner had ground out some material here for clearance) was no more melted on the bottom as it was before, and I expected it to be way worse.
I checked the resistance on a few wires, and they all are between 12k & 15k ohms.
Starts and idles fine, but runs rougher when up to temp, and really bogs down/looses power on acceleration to hotter it gets.

Two things changed here from the previous test runs where it ran fine, albeit the timing issue noted below:
1. Hood was on and it was a hot day
2. Lots of crappy welding on the exhaust, and I'm pretty sure the dude did not disconnect the (-) battery or the Unilite dizzy plug, which I asked him to do.

Could the small, 50yr old wires; when heated up (near melting probably) cause the loss of power, or
Could the welding have dome something to the Mallory ignition/distributor?

I've read through posts I could find on the subject, but could find no Eureka moment, so thought I'd create a new post.
I am currently waiting on a new DUI distributor/Live wires, because I don't like the advance on the Unilite
-Couldn't get the advance "all in" until >44 BTDC at +4000RPM
-Couldn't hook up the vac advance at all because it's already way to advanced at idle 14 BTDC
But...even with these ignition issues, it ran fine and was MORE than aggressive...just can't get the idle below 1200.

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Vettenick

Vettenick
Jul 17, 2019
575
Lot of stuff going on here. One quick check is to look at the ignition wires while running in the dark. If the wires are breaking down, you'll see arcing. Second, not sure about the idle below 1200. What kind of cam do you have? Can you rev it up to 3000 when hot while idling? I would set timing back to specs to see if there's any changes. Double check plug gaps, If ignition is OK, then I would start looking at fuel issues, like running lean, something like a restricted line or bad pump.
 

Lowend

Administrator. .a car, a man, a maraca.
Staff member
Lifetime Gold Member
Mar 25, 1999
17,967
San Jose, CA, USA
Before anything else, check the vacuum, do you have a gauge you can use? It's super common for these cars to have leaks at the carb base plate.
 
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70 RPO 28

Veteran Member
Feb 5, 2022
127
Cicero, IN
Vacuum is good for the cam…solid 13-14”. No leaks that I found.
I had put the timing back to where it was, and was fine for what it is with this Mallory setup. It had been running fine with that before the other day, while waiting for the DUI distributor and wires. Been a battle. Also have a new 750 DP sitting in a box waiting for the distributor first. So, other than being pissed now not knowing what changed….was going to be starting from scratch soon anyway.
Was always able to rev it up past 4-5k fine , but now sounds like crap >3k after driving 10min. I’m wondering if the problem may have always been there…just never run it long enough when trying to time before. That’s why I suspected the plug wires getting hot after driving it for more than around the block….which I’d really frickin like to do.
 

70 RPO 28

Veteran Member
Feb 5, 2022
127
Cicero, IN

This is the thread about trying to get it timed.
 

COPO

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Sep 15, 1999
26,351
Southern Ontario Canada
1970 Z28 factory 186 Heads should not have 5/8 tapered seat plugs or be angled, and should have 13/16 plugs with crush washers.
 
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70 RPO 28

Veteran Member
Feb 5, 2022
127
Cicero, IN
My LT1 is a “CE” motor, probably warranty replaced, so the heads were prob over counter as well. That’s how I believe angled plug 186 heads wound up on this 70 LT1 in my Z28.
 

2ndGenCrazy

Veteran Member
Aug 18, 2011
2,380
Western New York
No such thing as 186 angle plug heads.
Angle plug heads are 492 (early) and 292 (late with no heat crossover) and they were all over the counter dealer only.
 
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