MadMike's 1973 Z28 Camaro - Bodywork photo gallery
The Maciolek Family's 1973 Z28 Camaro
Bodywork Photo Gallery


Before we go any further, let me state I don't profess to know everything. This is not an example of a professional showing you how to properly do bodywork. Bodywork is tedious and requires patience (which I often lack). This is an example of how a relatively nice car can actually be messed up once you look at it closer. It also shows how I went about fixing my particular car. My objective was to make my car generally presentable and structurally sound. I wanted to eliminate any rust on the car. I also don't like orange and wanted to paint my car white.


Exterior Information
Fixing the rear frame rail
Before Trimmed out the old rusted area Welding the replacement piece in More welding After Repair

Often - the kiss of death on 2nd gens is wasted frame rails. One of mine was hammered, so we fixed it. The repair is acceptable looking and structurally sound, but not recommended for a concourse job.

December (stripping car)

Stripping roof Passenger door Passenger side Driver side side view

I stripped the car for several reasons. It was obvious there was a bunch of rust damage under the paint, and the paint was several layers thick and starting to crack or flake off in some spots. There was a fair amount of bondo all over the car too. Stripping the car to bare metal allowed me to see what I had to work with. Also as you've previously heard, it's a good way to make sure all the orange paint goes away.

Uncovered Damage

wheel well rear wheel rear panel Wheel Arch - Michelangelo was here

Bodywork Photos
January (priming, painting front end):

side view rear view outside side view
rear trunk door jamb all primed up
front end parts valence header & valence - done

I used Dupont Base Coat/Clear Coat (BC/CC). It's easy enough for even an idiot like me to apply. White is even better. Lighter colors tend to hide flaws in the bodywork.


Installing Frontend:
side view installing header header panel passenger fender
lower valence installed front end front installed


Putting the lid on the front end
Inner fenderwell installed MadMike the chemist - mixing paint underside of hood sprayed with DP90 priming, then wet sanding hood outside
shooting color coat - sniff,sniff. BUZZ. clear coating - holy cow the bitch gleams hood installed on car freekin overspray


Replacing 1/4 Panel(s)
Separating 1/4 panel Close up of wheel arch hand me the fu*kin can opener cutting out damaged sections
rust removed - along with a big portion of the rear of car Zero Rusted - neutralizing rust on inner wheel house fitting new skin

I'm currently replacing the 1/4 panels. Rather than waste time painting, then repairing and painting just the repair area, I'll bite the bullet and replace the 1/4 panels now. In order to make life difficult I want to keep the original rear marker light opening area, since it has a tab to secure the light. The repro skins don't have this tab. So I'm cutting out the patch panel to retain the original marker light. Also, I'd like to keep the stock seam from the 1/4 panel to the rear splash panel. Often with repaired cars, you'll see this seam filled in (so you can tell the car was repaired in some way).


Last updated: 3/01/2003
Rewritten: 11/24/1999
Author: MadMike Maciolek
Email: iracez28@alltel.net


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