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Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by nagrom28, Nov 15, 2013.
I found some very nice rust free original front fenders from a member from this site....
here is the passenger floor cut out for repairs. I purchased a floor pan from classic industries, but it didn't go far enough up, and I wasn't able to locate a toe board, so I made one out of 16 gauge metal. I measured the beads and used a buddies bead roller with a 1/2" die to simulate the correct look. I know some people use a mustang gas tank, but the beads don't line up on the ones I've seen. I then used a piece of bent exhaust tubing that can be purchased at any automotive parts store to make the patch for the part where the toe board, floor, and transmission tunnel meet.
here are pictures of the car with the body work pretty much done. I know it looks like the body line on the door is too low, but it's not.
here is the car in hi-build primer. I'm using Omni primers and clear on this car. MP170 epoxy, MP182 hi-build primer, and MC161 hi solid urethane clear. I don't use Omni base coat because it sucks....lol. I am using PPG DBC base coat. I've been using them for since 2000 and have had excellent results.
that "perfectly round hole" in the driver's door is from a hole saw. the guy I sold it to lost the keys and I was going to replace the door skins so I just cut into it to reach the door lock rod.
here is the inner door. seam sealed and painted.
outside of doors painted...
the shell in blue base coat and getting the black paint on the rocker panel..
the shell clear coated and the firewall and dash painted rust-o-leum 7777 satin black
and the fenders with the black bottoms...I made the stand out of PVC piping. very cheap and lightweight...
I bought a parts car that came with a 454+.030 freshly machined but not assembled. new 9:1 pistons, new valves, springs, edelbrock 270H cam, reconditioned rods, and polished crank. I wasn't going to put a big block in it, but this deal was too good to pass up. the front stub had all new ball joints, bushings, shocks, springs, and tie rods. it also came with a T-10 4 speed transmission, new rear springs, the original 10 bolt with 3.73 posi, the 5 spoke wheels, and a Pypes stainless steel dual exhaust.
I switched over to early 70's big block engine mounts because the headers that also came with the parts car said they were required in order for them to fit in a 1979. I used a plasma cutter to cut a hole in the stub to make it easier to get the nuts on the motor mount bolts. it's very similar to the hole on the passenger side that was there from the factory.
I didn't want overspray under the car, so after the top was painted, I took the suspension and front stub back off, rolled it on it's side and painted the bottom with rust-o-leum 7777 satin black.