Winter storage tips

Discussion in 'Tips 'n' Tricks Topic' started by my81z, Dec 30, 2011.

  1. my81z

    my81z Member

    Feb 20, 2009
    This is my first year for storing my 81Z and would like some recommendations for storing it over the winter. I have read the pros and cons on winter start ups, raising on jack stands, removing tires and battery. Just thought I would ask Camaro guys for their valued input.
  2. harbone66

    harbone66 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Feb 15, 2011
    Central Illinois
    Is your storage area heated?

    JONESYFXR Veteran Member

    Oct 10, 2009
    Ok, I see you're from Canada. Being in Buffalo, NY I'm used to the cold. I'd remove your battery and place it on a board or shelf in your basement to prevent freezing (not on the basement floor). Also, It's not a bad idea to put your car on jack stands to prevent dry-rotting the tires and flat spots. I know a guy who lays an old rug down, then parks on it to keep the humidity down under the car. Also, and this is a must, use fuel stabilizer. Put in the recommended amoount for your tank size, top it off (a full tank is safer than an empty one...les flammable), then run your car for a bit to make sure you get the stabilizer in the carb. I've also heard of guys removing the plugs and fogging the engine or shooting oil into the plug holes, of which I've never done to a car and never had any problems in the spring with fire up.
  4. my81z

    my81z Member

    Feb 20, 2009
    It is a new garage that is not heated. I kinda like the idea of over pressure the tires and park on carpet. I've even read of guys that will plug the tail pipes to prevent rodents but since it is a new tight garage I don't think I will have that problem. Thanks again.
  5. global warmer

    global warmer Veteran Member

    Apr 1, 2010
    Saratoga Springs NY
    also make sure your gas tank is full ethanol soakes up moisture and will rust your tank if their is no room for the moisture it can't accumulate. You need to run your carburator dry pull the fuel line and run the car until it stalls otherwise ethanol will eat all your seals and varnish the carb up good. you will also need a battery tender/charger or your battery will discharge and may never take a charge again after sitting for a couple months
  6. z28code

    z28code Member

    May 4, 2008
    what if its out doors,that gets alot of snow whats the best idea, cover and jack stands ?
  7. cruzer33

    cruzer33 Veteran Member

    Apr 28, 2004
    findlay, ohio, usa
    I have tried it all on my 78Z that i bought new: fuel stabilizer and no stabilizer; battery in and battery out; full tank of gas and 1/4 tank of gas; covered and not covered. My point one thing has made any difference when it came time to start it in the spring other than the battery. I do always put a cheapy battery tender on both my stored (inside/unheated) cars and also bump the air pressure to help from flat-spotting. I also replace the batteries automatically every four years.
    I live in Ohio and the cars go into storage the first of Oct. and don't come out until late April. Hope this helps.
    ....and don't put moth balls in it!!!
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2012
  8. COPO

    COPO Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Sep 15, 1999
    Ontario, Canada
    Don't use ethanol gas. If you use Shell Premium there is 0% ethanol.

    If the salt on the roads gets washed down with a rain storm then when it dries up, I'll take my cars out for a short drive so new gas gets into the carb.

    Car cover.

    I tried gas stabil for the 1st time in 30 yrs of owning my 70 Z28 last winter and it had a very hard time starting in the spring. Other years, it was not an issue. This year only my riding lawn mower gets it.

    I have cardboard under the car. I sometimes put short pieces of 4x4 stacked under the front control arm just to take the weight off the tires or just jack up the front a few inches. I no longer suspend my car on stands because I don't want the suspension ruined or the body distorting in the center.

    I used to spray WD-40 in my cyl and just crank a few turns, but if I take it out on a dry day I don't really want to do that anymore.

    I remove the batt and store it in the house and put a 1.5 amp slow charger/maintainer (Schumacher SF-1-12S) on it and rotate it every week to all my 3 batteries.

  9. DoTheDew

    DoTheDew Veteran Member

    Mar 2, 2010
    Leduc, Alberta
    Something else to consider is you're cooling system. Depending on where you live, (anywhere in Canada?), temps can drop to -30 below on a regular basis. I've already had one instance this winter with the antifreeze not being mixed strong enough in my truck, resulting in the radiator becoming a solid block and an overheat condition. Ironic, but it can happen.

    I have a bad habit during the summer of sometimes topping up the cooling system with water if I don't have a jug of antifreeze handy. Not having a strong enough mixture can crack rads, pop off hoses, or at worst, crack a block.

    For cars that sit all winter, I like to pull the air cleaner off and stall the engine with fogging spray. Same idea as the WD-40 in the cylinders; just coats valves and cylinders with a thin film of oil. Usually no issues to start in the spring.

    Battery removal is a must. Period.

    Make sure you're car is sealed tight. Don't leave windows cracked open, trunk, or whatever. Mice can make nests, and a mess.
  10. greencamaro1981

    greencamaro1981 Veteran Member

    Jun 2, 2010
    I also put in a sticky mouse trap with a dog food pellet one in trunk one on driver floor and one on batt tray

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