Weiand Blowers

Discussion in 'Engine Topic' started by DoTheDew, Mar 7, 2010.

  1. DoTheDew

    DoTheDew Veteran Member

    899
    0
    Mar 2, 2010
    Leduc, Alberta
    Has any body run them? Been thinking of bolting one on for a low boost motor to have some fun (5psi or less) Looking at the 177 model. Can I still run HEI with these? How reliable are they? I've read that cruise fuel mileage stays close to the same or just slightly less with the additional drag, but its not a big factor (Of course mileage at WOT doesn't really matter). I want something that both looks cool, has that classic blower wine, and sucks your head around the headrest back there somewhere kind of feel to it without sacraficing to much fuel mileage or drivibility. I considered the magnuson one by edelbrock for a while, but you can't run HEi with it, and must switch distrubutors. Plus the intial cost is higher on the blower unit itself. Any thoughts? Mainly a street car, don't mind cutting the hood. Will be bolting to a low comp smog era motor with cast pistons, so again, no major boost for now. I know the 144/142 are better for low end stuff like this, but I like the looks of the bigger 177, plus if I can afford to go up in engine size ie 383 or 400, it'll still meet my needs. Comments?:shy:
     
  2. Damon

    Damon Veteran Member

    12,932
    15
    Nov 16, 2000
    Philly area
    The little 142/144 blowers definitely clear with an HEI. Pretty sure the 177 does as well, but haven't tried it myself. Holley/Weiand has no warning against using an HEI, which they normally would have if there was an obvious interference problem.

    The 142/144 small block kit comes with a 1.95:1 drive ratio out of the box (6" bottom pulley, 3.07" top pulley). Makes about 6 PSI on a "stock" 350.

    The bigger 177 small block kit comes with a 1.71:1 drive ratio out of the box (6" bottom pulley, 3.5" top pulley and therefore also makes about the same 6 PSI on a "stock" 350.

    Obviously, you've got more "headroom" left with the bigger blower. The little 142/144 blowers are done around the 500 HP range (out of pulley choices, but you're not going to be hitting 500HP with a stock bottom end anyway) while the 177 hits the lid around 600HP.
     
  3. rwild1967

    rwild1967 Veteran Member

    251
    0
    Aug 11, 2009
    Look behind you!
    I run a 144 on a very mild 383 get about 5 lbs with the stock pulleys. it is very driveable, does whine a bit and will pin you to the seat pretty good, but the mileage suffered quite a bit. does turn some heads tho!
     
  4. 76z28

    76z28 Veteran Member

    1,696
    3
    Jun 29, 2009
    bakersfield
    i want a blower
    would 10.5 be border line to high or 10.0 to high?
    im not sure about the compression ratios...
    im at 10.5 right now and if that is too high ill just go nitrous and make a sleeper
     
  5. rwild1967

    rwild1967 Veteran Member

    251
    0
    Aug 11, 2009
    Look behind you!
    i am only running 9. according to the manuel that came with the blower that is about the max without major lower end mods. however, i am sure that some of the guys here will be able to tell you for sure. I am just a tinkerer, there are some real pros on this site.
     
  6. Damon

    Damon Veteran Member

    12,932
    15
    Nov 16, 2000
    Philly area
    I'm at 8:1 on my setup with aluminum heads and a very mild cam. Depends on a bunch of variables, but with the little blowers it's best to "follow the recipe". Low compression, mild blower cam, conservative tune and make it work in the idle-5500 RPM range that the blower is efficient in. High compression = death. MUCH preferable to have compression in the toilet than to have it even borderline too high.

    My first itteration was 9.2:1. Blew that one up pretty quick.

    Next came two combos at 8.7:1. Eventually blew them both up (probably more the fault of my tune than the compression, but it was definitely "touchy" when it came to stepping over the line into detonation).

    Current combo is at 8:1 and it's held together for several years now. It also goes just as fast as the previous higher compression engines. Low compression doesn't leave a lot of power on the table like in a N/A application. The pulley ratio is the primary determining factor of how much power it makes. The bottom end's job is pretty much just not to blow up.
     
  7. DoTheDew

    DoTheDew Veteran Member

    899
    0
    Mar 2, 2010
    Leduc, Alberta
    If you read through the holley website, generally lower compression is better, to an extent. The lower the compression, the more boost you can run. If you have 9.5-1, you can still run boost, but only 3-5 pounds. If its 8.0-1 or 8.5 you can get away with more, maybe 6-10, but all that pressure puts a lot of strain on the bottom end, so if its not up to the task it'll let go in a spectacular fasion. Timing is also a big key, and has to be set up accordingly, the more conservative the better I think. Any detonation will end the love story real quick.

    rwild67 you mentioned mileage suffered quite a bit. Understandably during acceleration, but what about cruise conditions? I also heard cold starts are easier with a S/C, can you confirm this? Do you, or have you had any trouble with heating/cooling issues? From what I can figure out they seem pretty streetable, good idle, good vacuum(above intake of S/C), but I plan on driving quite a bit so it needs to be realiable. Its going on a smog era engine with all stock internals, cast pistons, the works. From the holley website this seems entirely possible so long as boost is kept low and timing carefully managed. What internals are you running in your 383?
     
  8. POS71RS

    POS71RS Moderator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

    10,317
    0
    Aug 21, 2002
    Central Coast, CA
    I've had both the 144 and the 177 on the same motor.

    The 144 was running about 4-5psi, and the 177 ran 6-7psi.
    The 177 was significantly taller, but the HEI fit fine on either.
    Either will be fine for DD status, I was running the 144 as my only car just after HS, even barely able to afford gas! I couldn't give you gas numbers from it, as it was likely a lot less cause I could NOT keep my foot out of it.
    The engine was a dead stock, REALLY cheap crate motor from one of those engine 'rebuilders' from the Recycler classifieds.

    P.S., click on my profile for a pic of my previous down and disgusting motor with the 177 atop.
     
  9. rwild1967

    rwild1967 Veteran Member

    251
    0
    Aug 11, 2009
    Look behind you!
    cold starts are easier than you would ever guess!! the rotors atomize and heat the fuel so it starts after 1 or 2 revolutions cold and usually around 1/2 warmed up. my car is not a DD so I don't have much info on the mileage other than "less" I had the best luck cooling with my stock clutch fan and shroud, but I bought a cheap ebay electric fan setup so that might have been the problem there. my internals are all cast. and timing does need to be carefully set. to much advance and BANG, you need a couple of pistons!!
    and if you backfire into the intake you can do damage as well. the little blowers dont need blow-out plates because they will slip the belt and let it blow through the carb, but I actually cracked and ear on an edelbrock before I redid the heads. (burnt a valve)
     

Share This Page