Vortec Cylinder Heads: The Definitive Guide

Discussion in 'Engine Topic' started by MikeM79, Jul 4, 2006.

  1. 72bomb

    72bomb New Member

    12
    0
    Jul 14, 2010
    bombersville
    I am running 18* intial + 16* mechanical...= 34 degrees...you may have to bump it up to 36*...who knows, every motor likes different things!
     
  2. ruler7171

    ruler7171 New Member

    7
    0
    Jun 26, 2016
    Valley, AL
    Would there be any problem mixing the casting numbers on a build? I have one good 906 and need to find another cylinder head but didn't know if I needed to look for a 906 exclusively or if a 062 would work. Also, what is your thoughts on getting remanufactured cylinder heads and sending off a core?
     
  3. fester

    fester Veteran Member

    132
    10
    Jun 26, 2016
    Central Texas
    Take them to Patriot there in Alabama and tell them to make them the same. I bought a take out 6.0 out of a Trailblazer with 1 243 head and 1 799 head. I took them there( I was working on B'ham) and they said they were physically the same just a different building (manufacturing) process. I'll bet They would work but if they CNC port them and do their valve job and stem machining and install their springs you will be a Happy Camper
     
  4. Tpichevy

    Tpichevy Veteran Member

    261
    3
    Jun 21, 2016
    Boise id
    Subbed for great info.
     
  5. bigdinbassett

    bigdinbassett New Member

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    0
    May 29, 2017
    Help!!! What's the max spring pressure that can be ran with press in studs? Been reading some articles and finding conflicting information. My setup is 906 vortec's the guides and pockets have been machined to except larger lift springs. The spring seat pressure is approximately 110lbs and open pressure of approximately 300lbs. Running a hydraulic roller with .510/.520 lift. Can I run this without pinning or installing screw in studs? Gonna be a daily driver probably will never see over 5500 rpm. Thanks in advance
     
  6. tom3

    tom3 Veteran Member

    10,525
    32
    Aug 1, 1999
    ohio
    With that much lift I'd suspect the open pressure is some higher that that, and the opening rate is going to be pretty severe too. Not sure I'd trust the pressed studs or even pinned since that weakens the boss some. I'd go with screw in studs if possible.
     
  7. bigdinbassett

    bigdinbassett New Member

    2
    0
    May 29, 2017
    Your'e probably correct on the spring pressure. I'm beginning to wonder why I didn't go a different route. I'm too invested to do that now.

    $300 self aligning rockers
    $150 pushrods
    $500 in the heads machine work and new springs valves.

    Now they are bolted to the motor on a test stand.

    I think the last time I talked to the machinest he said about $200 to install screw in studs.

    $1150 seems like a lot for a set of vortec heads.
     
  8. ArcProject

    ArcProject New Member

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    May 30, 2017
    I'm currently in the middle of dealing with the same thing. Well, I'm only running .444int/.466exh lift but, non the less. I found a way to save a good amount of money on the screw in stud process using these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pio-850001 ----- Unlike normal screw-in's, they don't require the land to be cut down. And, since your using self aligning rockers and no guide plates you don't need this done anyway. A machine shop here in Denver quoted me a additional 60 minutes of labor to install these. (Roughly 60-120$ depending on the shop.) But, I was very easily able to remove the press-in studs myself. Cutting the end cost out the door to $36.70+parts.
     
  9. ArcProject

    ArcProject New Member

    2
    0
    May 30, 2017
    I'm just about to take apart my 350 and put everything back together. I'm wondering if anyone could help me get an estimated HP; or let me know if I should do anything different. Thinking my compression may be low, but there's really no way of knowing until I take off the old heads and measure. Here's my build in a 1972 Nova 4dr:

    Stock Block (not original):
    UKA "casting code" 1981 350 con. cab, m/t, A.I.R. P LF5 150 2 C-30 & 3500,159.5WB

    Summit Cam: Duration 288/298; Lift .444/.466; Duration @ .500 214 int./224 exh
    Intake: SUM-226019 Air-gap (1500-5200 range)

    Heads: 062 Casts, Cleaned up with only minor bowl blending, .03 off the deck, and casting cleanup. Plus the below mentioned parts.
    -Chevrolet Performance Parts Valve Spring Kit LS2 / LS3 / LS6 Beehive-style 12499224 (.550 max lift, 295lbs @ 1.250; 90lbs @ 1.80)
    -Comp Retainers CCA-787-16 "To assist with valve clearance even with the beehive springs."
    -Pioneer screw-in studs PIO-850001
    -Summit Roller Rockers (1.5:1 Ratio) PRO-66914C

    Flowtech unequal length 1.5" primaries, 2.5" collectors
    True duel exhaust, not sure what muffler are currently on it.
    Stock distributor with all MSD Streetfire coil, module, new springs, cap, wires.
    Mechanic Water pump, dual electric fans (shrouded) /w dual core be-cool radiator rated up to 500hp.
    Stock Fuel Pump
    A/C has been deleted
    Edelbrock 650 electric choke carb *I know, it has to go.*

    Thank you in advance, I know it's hard to estimate. I'm really just wondering if this would be a solid, not too radical street build. As this motor is going to be pulled when I'm done with my pro-charged 496 in roughly a year...
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2017
  10. Urban Samurai

    Urban Samurai Veteran Member

    988
    0
    May 3, 2006
    Chicago
    It's been a long time since I've been on here & good to see knowledge still being shared, great forum. Since this thread made me try out the vortec head I thought I'd share my results.

    I put a budget 355cid vortec head motor together to get out racing again. :bowtie::)
    It's a pump gas 10.3.1 motor with a comp nx274 hydraulic flat tappet. Off the trailer ran 11.95 @113 with a very tight nitrous converter. I was going through the traps at 5,000 rpm. I'm going to throw a lil spray at it next time out, if I can find any :(
     

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