Trying to find the thread / post that i thought was here for Dryers/Filters

Discussion in 'Garages, Workshops & Tools' started by cubangt, Mar 31, 2015.

  1. cubangt

    cubangt Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Jul 5, 2010
    Katy, Tx
    Now that I want to start working on the car again, id like to take the time to get my compressor setup right so I don't get water in my tools..

    so im looking for a dryer/lubricator/regulator setup I can use.
    Its a large stand up unit,(cant remember the gallons right now)
    It states 11.8 SCFM @40psi and 10.3 SCFM @90psi and has max 135psi

    I found one post here where everyone mentions to put the setup around 20ft from the compressor, but I don't think I have that much space from the compressor to my hose reel, at most 10'+

    So I noticed that others have used the harbor freight setups, and other made their own setups.

    Besides those options are there any other good suggestions or can someone tell me where I can find the thread on this topic?

    I searched nasty for "dryer" and only returned 5 links and only 1 was for air compressor dryer, where I found the above information. I thought there was a sticky or something that someone listed a while back on this..

    this was the other post:
  2. 81BirdMan

    81BirdMan Veteran Member

    Jan 31, 2004
  3. perkalator

    perkalator Veteran Member

    Aug 27, 2014
    kennewick wa
    You want to look for a filter regulator set up to remove oil, contaminates from the tank. Then 20 to 25 feet from the tank mount a dessicant dryer assembly. Make sure your supply lines are large enough to account for pressure drop. I still need to install a 3/4" hardline to the dessicant dryer and up size to 3/8" hose. My tank will have 155psi and running the DA or the die grinder my line pressure will drop between the regulator and tool to 40psi.
  4. grzewnicki

    grzewnicki Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Just cause you compressor is only ten feet from your reel doesn't meet you can't get 20-25 feet of pipe in. You may have to double back. The longer the run the more the air cools and water condenses. The water is a wapor at the discharge from the compressor, a filter will let that pass right through.

    Garage Journal good web site for all things garagy....

    Last edited: Mar 31, 2015
  5. cubangt

    cubangt Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Jul 5, 2010
    Katy, Tx
    So with the appropriate supply run, I could run with these in line at the correct distances?

    And this one I already have:

    Now ive read and noticed that everyone mentions different types of supply lines.. some black pipe, some copper and very few the pvc snap together setups.

    Is there a benefit from one to the other?
    Seems with the black pipe, its just a matter of planning out the design based on available threaded sizes so that no cutting and rethreading is needed. Copper can be run and custom cut and sweat together(correct?) and then the PVC snap together seems the simplest, but why aren't maybe mentioning that option?
  6. grzewnicki

    grzewnicki Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    I think you get better cooling of the air with a metal line, if your good with soldering, copper is easy, use type L or type M, from what I read either will hold up to the pressures coming off a compressor. Personal choice n the drier, you get what you pay for, not a big fan of Harbor freight.
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2015
  7. 71flh

    71flh Veteran Member

    Jun 1, 2010
    PVC can explode and become shrapnel that doesn't show on X-rays.
    The reason for large diameter is it lessens resistance to flow, and acts like a small air tank. Metal line acts as a heatsink. Hot air is more difficult to remove heat from. If you see a small mechanical dryer mounted close (air travel distance) to the tank, it isn't doing much.
    If you use threaded pipe, clean the threads or they'll leak even with sealer.
    Since I have a minimal system (~50' 3/4" black pipe), I've set it up so water has to drain back to the tank, or toward the outlet. All parts are tilted a bit so water can't collect. I let water out the tank regularly, but there's no need to drain the tank of air so I always have air.
    I have a valve by the tank like V in the pic in post 4 and a switch to keep the pressure switch from turning on the contactor so the pump can only run when I want it to.
    Finally, my regulator, filter, dryer are after another valve, and union so that part can be taken and redone off w/o losing air.
    All of the above BS was done using 4 10' lengths of pipe from the home store and a few other standard lengths.
  8. motown 454

    motown 454 Veteran Member

    Feb 4, 2008
  9. 1971SS

    1971SS Veteran Member

    Feb 5, 2011
    eastern NC
    I use 3/4" black iron. My local Lowes offers cutting and threading which helped a bunch...

    PVC...fella I know dang near lost his forearm from PVC shrapnel...took him a long time and several surgeries to regain any use of it...his left forearm is about half the size of his right now.
  10. cubangt

    cubangt Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Jul 5, 2010
    Katy, Tx
    I have to stop by the hardware store today at lunch, so ill find out what if any it would cost to thread the pipes if I have them custom cut everything for me..

    thanks, I think for sure black piping is what ill end up using

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