T5 or Super T10 or Muncie or Saginaw 4-speed?

Discussion in 'Transmission & Driveline Topics' started by 79supergasdriver, Apr 21, 2017.

  1. 8pack

    8pack Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    2,382
    70
    Aug 29, 2007
    Pittsburgh, PA
    How much do you think you will pay used for all of the same things you need anyway for a ST10 or T5. I bet you are not too far off $2k.............

    Maybe there is a payment plan you can cut with the guy. Get the tranny first and then buy the other parts over time.....

    Since it is already cut and ready fir the T56 all the hard work has been done. You should try and find a way to make it work...
     
  2. 8pack

    8pack Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    2,382
    70
    Aug 29, 2007
    Pittsburgh, PA
    I had a ST10 with that set up..... its not a lot of fun on the highway....5 speed made a huge difference.
     
  3. 79supergasdriver

    79supergasdriver A Scholar and a Gentleman

    768
    5
    Jun 22, 2005
    Wichita, KS, USA
    Looks like I've settled the transmission debate...now to transition this thread over to "How to get this thing behind a SBC and in the car" 20170606_182725.jpg 20170606_182751.jpg
     
  4. CasperCasper

    CasperCasper Veteran Member

    994
    106
    Aug 11, 2015
    That is the wrong case t56 to put behind a sbc. Just kidding! You wont have a problem, nice choice.
     
  5. 79supergasdriver

    79supergasdriver A Scholar and a Gentleman

    768
    5
    Jun 22, 2005
    Wichita, KS, USA
    Here's the LS bell housing that came with the transmission mocked up on my SBC. This particular block is a mid-90's GM Goodwrench crate engine so it has the top center bolt hole drilled and tapped. It fits nice and tight over the dowels and I can get a bolt in every hole. I've never mated a manual tranny to anything so I have literally no clue what I'm doing here. Will this bellhousing properly align the input shaft with the crank and provide the appropriate distance from engine to trans? I've read a lot about verifying bellhousing "runout" but the Internet seems divided on this procedure. Some say it's absolutely necessary when using an aftermarket adapter or housing while others say it's impossible to do with the OEM piece pictured here.

    20170607_135248.jpg

    I am a long ways from installation though. Shortly after this picture was taken I put the engine on the stand and tore it down only to discover the #8 cylinder had been leaking coolant, it's piston was missing a large chunk of skirt, and the piston was all buggered up on one side. Also all the main and rod bearings were chewed into the copper core so...full rebuild!
     
  6. greencamaro1981

    greencamaro1981 Veteran Member

    604
    0
    Jun 2, 2010
    Montana
    you cant check runout with a t56, in the 3,4 and t5 series you verify the center bore is in alignment, i have done hundreds of trans swaps never checked bore never had one come back for a front bearing issue. that said in a t56 you can be to shallow and put pressure on the front of the trans. install flywheel and measure depth of input shaft and into pilot bushing, make sure the input shaft has a little clearance.
     
  7. black_aerocoupe

    black_aerocoupe Veteran Member

    Congrats on getting into a trans. Details on ratios?

    Centerforce used to offer a spacer for LS1 T56 behind early Chevy. That will line up the pilot tip and pilot bushing. There are other ways too.

    Your slave cylinder may need height adjusted by shim after you set things up.

    The T56 models aren't bad about needing runout corrected. You can pull the front plate to do it if done carefully and nose up. QuickTime sells a plate for doing it that kinda resembles a Muncie pattern, funny enough.
     
  8. 79supergasdriver

    79supergasdriver A Scholar and a Gentleman

    768
    5
    Jun 22, 2005
    Wichita, KS, USA
    Sorry for the long delay in posting, but between the car project, home projects, full-time work and full-time college and major holidays the forums got sidelined. Things I've accomplished since last posting:

    1. My particular T56 is the LS-style with longer input shaft so the pictured bellhousing is too shallow to mate with SBC. Spent way too much time dialing in the aluminum bell just to figure that out. Dropped damn near $600 for the Quicktime SFI housing and a new flywheel to get it all bolted together. Then I spent a few weeks (a couple hours at a time) getting the motor mounts to line up so the package would drop into the engine bay. Finally got it all together and dropped in. Got crossmember and drive shaft installed, clutch bled, trans fluid filled.

    22496224_1893009564048041_5689605072593841244_o.jpg

    2. Exhaust made to fit under TH350 interfered with T56 crossmember so I sectioned 3" from behind x-pipe and moved it ahead of x-pipe:
    26951744_2002453669770296_8699557743207412643_o.jpg

    Now I need some help with wiring connections. VSS won't be used because the car has a Speedhut GPS speedo installed. The reverse lockout (on drivers side of tail shaft extension housing) will be spliced into the brake pedal/brake light switch. I do not know how to work in the reverse lights (on passenger side towards front of main case). How would I interface this connection with the car?
     
  9. 79supergasdriver

    79supergasdriver A Scholar and a Gentleman

    768
    5
    Jun 22, 2005
    Wichita, KS, USA
    After digging around a bit more, I don't think the brake switch is a great option. I would like to put reverse lockout on a push button momentary contact switch instead but would like it to be reachable with one hand on the steering wheel and one hand on the shifter ball; perhaps a little button stuck to the shifter handle that I can tap with my pinky? Kinda like the flashlight switch stuck to the broom handle foregrip on my M4 rifle (I have spares)-that would be perfect but I doubt its rated for 12vdc.
     
  10. drewclonezap

    drewclonezap New Member

    16
    1
    Nov 17, 2017
    I have a friend who has a good M-21 for $500. After pricing everything else needed to do the change over from a TH 350, it is very expensive. I wish someone would make an entire kit with everything needed for this project, and design different kits to fit the owners level of desired performance. I just want a basic system myself, because in my younger days I found out how much
    one can tear up with a 4 speed. I have grew out of that now, (I think)
     

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