Starter Wire Help-Do I need this?

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting & Diagnosis' started by wdstamper, Jan 20, 2018.

  1. wdstamper

    wdstamper Member

    97
    1
    May 17, 2014
    Florida
    I'm trying clean up some of the wiring before my crate motor arrives. When I was moving my starter wires around in the metal shield (the metal shield that bolts to the bell housing) the wire broke off of some thing that looks like a fuse? Anyone have any idea what this is and can I just cut it off and connect the starter wire back on? The pic is below. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Walt

    Starter Wire.jpg
     
  2. Dave Nelson

    Dave Nelson Veteran Member Gold Member

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    Dec 19, 2003
    Vineland N.J USA
    That is a fuseable link, you need it for protection, NAPA or any good auto store should have them. This is a good time to replace any wires that look questionable.
     
  3. Twisted_Metal

    Twisted_Metal Moderator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Bloomington, MN
    The barrel on that wire has a number molded into it.
    That's the gauge size of the fusible link.
    You'll want to know that when you replace it.

    I see two of them... 80 or 81?
    (I believe other years only had one fusible link near the starter.)
     
  4. wdstamper

    wdstamper Member

    97
    1
    May 17, 2014
    Florida
    Thanks guys. I just ordered two of them to get them replaced.

    Now, if there was an 1981 wiring harness expert out there. My computer is long gone but the harness remains. I have one rather large section of the harness from the firewall forward for the smog crap on the passenger side that I want to cut off but I'm afraid it might screw something else up like my gauges I spent hours upon hours getting them to work correctly. Ugh!!! Thanks.

    Walt
     
  5. Twisted_Metal

    Twisted_Metal Moderator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Bloomington, MN
    If you intend to replace the carb and distributor with non-computer controlled parts... You can remove the harness and fill the hole in the firewall with a plastic plug.

    An O2 sensor will be left to fill the bung in the exhaust and you may have to rewire your lock-up convertor (if equipped with a TH350C). Factory cruise control wiring may also be affected.
    (Not sure on cruise for an 81. 3rd gens have it incorporated into the computer system.)
     
  6. wdstamper

    wdstamper Member

    97
    1
    May 17, 2014
    Florida
    The crate motor is non-computer controlled and I ditched the turbo 350 with the lock up for a rebuild one without a lock up. Also, I have dual exhaust with headers so no O2 sensor to deal with.

    However, the smog harness also has a distributor plug coming out of it. I assume the plug was for the computer? The other plug ins for the distributor are on a different harness? Thanks.

    Walt
     
  7. Twisted_Metal

    Twisted_Metal Moderator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Bloomington, MN
    You need a different distributor.
    The computer controlled distributor timing on the original.
     
  8. wdstamper

    wdstamper Member

    97
    1
    May 17, 2014
    Florida
    The computer is gone. The carb and distributor are non-computer controlled. They come with the crate motor that way ready to go. Thanks.
     
  9. wdstamper

    wdstamper Member

    97
    1
    May 17, 2014
    Florida
    Twisted-Metal:
    Here's a pic of the smog harness. Are you sure I can cut at the firewall with not other issues? I'm assuming the big plug to the right for the distributor is for the computer that is no longer in the car? Thanks.

    Walt

    Smog Harness.jpg
     
  10. Twisted_Metal

    Twisted_Metal Moderator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Bloomington, MN
    Personally... I never just chop off a harness.

    I would disconnect it from any connections under the dash and remove it completely.
    The harness is probably still plugged in to speedometer and most likely the fuse block even if the computer itself has been removed.
     
    Dave Nelson likes this.

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