shorter transmission mounts?

Discussion in 'Transmission & Driveline Topics' started by Goat, Oct 27, 2017.

  1. Goat

    Goat Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I think the four hole pattern of the aluminum plate is symmetric. All I'll be doing is turning it upside down. I don't think the forward position will be affected. It gets confusing thinking about it not having parts in hand to look at... But we'll see later this week when I do it. Right now I'm waiting on my lowered leaf springs to install - supposed to be here tomorrow...
     
  2. black_aerocoupe

    black_aerocoupe Veteran Member

    Just because I read the thread title before reading further, the Energy Suspension 1158 should be the shorter (by 1/2" compared to the one every store stocks) mount.
     
  3. badazz81z28

    badazz81z28 Veteran Member

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    Where are we on this??
     
  4. Goat

    Goat Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    What was supposed to be a one day effort installing my lowered leaf springs has turned into a journey...

    Long story, but got a handle on it now. I wanted to button up the rear suspension before focusing on the original problem - always something.
     
  5. Goat

    Goat Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    moncure, NC
    Finally got the rear suspension buttoned up and the engine mounts right side up. As it turns out, changing them around did not change the height of the engine, but did move it forward about 1/4" - which helps some.

    So I still have the same issue with the cross member. Bowler offered to re-design my cross member to lower the mounting pad, but that would mean I still would need to cut the floor pans to make it fit. So I have decided to make one myself. I never did like the way all of the aftermarket cross members are cantilevered. They use the existing mounting holes on the sub frame which is several inches forward of the tranny mount. I designed one that sits exactly underneath the tranny mount and attaches to the sub frame further back. It is actually a better place because at this location, the floorboard clearance gets better. Anyway, I will start on fabrication when the material gets here next week. I am using 1" x 3" rectangular tubing. Will also need to weld one small piece of angle to each side of the cross member to use for mounting bolts.

    I will post some pictures...
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2017
  6. badazz81z28

    badazz81z28 Veteran Member

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    Please keep us updated, very interested to see how it turns out
     
  7. Goat

    Goat Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Here is a model of my design...

    Big Brown is supposed to deliver the material tomorrow.

    new.crossmember.JPG
     
  8. berg2695

    berg2695 Veteran Member

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    Nov 13, 2011
    Auburn, WA
    Your design is interesting and got me thinking... The factory trans cross member adds very little if any torsional stiffness to the long "wheelbarrow handles" of the sub frame. Your design with the added angles underneath could add a lot of stiffness for not much investment, especially if you had 4 bolts per side (two horizontal and two vertical). Good luck on the project!
     
  9. badazz81z28

    badazz81z28 Veteran Member

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  10. Goat

    Goat Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I installed it for fit and found that I needed to trim a little off the ends. It would not fit between the floor pan and sub frame towards the very end. Trimmed ends and reinstalled. Fits good now. Then came Christmas and travel... Just got back today. need to weld brackets on sub frame and then clean up the cross member/paint it. I will post more pictures when done.

    cm2.JPG cm1.JPG
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2017

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