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Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by Double R Restorations, Nov 3, 2013.
Russ, that's some good looking welding!!
I got some of the same problems with my doors. Where did you get the door stand at? I would like to get my hands on one for a steal
Your motor is AWESOME looking. I like shiny!!
ffshu, The door stand is from Auto Twirler. Its called a Parts tree on their website. Its built for doors and fenders. I saw it advertised at a show in Pigeon Forge. Its around a couple hundred bucks plus shipping. Its about the only thing that I found that I would trust these doors on. You could probably build something cheaper, but its a nice tool. Thanks for the compliments on the motor. I can't wait to hear it run.
Thanks for all the details on the panel work - very informative. Looks like great work to me!
Thanks Spellbound. Not much progress this past week. Some of this stuff is very time consuming. I got everything mocked up to add a bullet mirror to the passenger side skin.
Took a bracket off the original driver side skin that I cut off and will weld it to the passenger side.
Got out my parts and realized that I had two driver side mirror gaskets. Its been so long that I don't know if I ordered two drivers sides, or if that is what they sent. The OER units don't have the alignment tab. I ordered a new set from Camaro Central and they matched my old originals perfect. I had also ordered a mounting kit years ago from NPD. What a joke. They sent me a couple of phillip head screws. If you have taken apart enough things you know how easy they are to strip out. Got to digging through some old bolts and came up with enough original hex bolts to restore.
The mirror bracket is messed up as well. I ran the screw that came with the mounting kit in it and it stripped out. The original units have a larger screw. I have a driver side original. I'm looking for a couple of passenger side units.
I've just about got the keys all figured out. I dissembled the door locks and restored them.
I was able to get the glove box lock off the door. The outer knob needs replaced. I've have ordered one and will have it rekey'd soon.
I have been restoring some of the small stuff and checking to see what I am missing:
I have about gave up on the weather cooperating with me on getting these door shells and inner skins in epoxy. I have decided to start working on the trunk area of the car and hopefully in the next few weeks I can finally start doing some painting. As cold as it has been, I just have not been able to get motivated in the evenings after work.
Great work your doing! The doors are clearly 73 by having the crash bars. What did you plate the bolts with after blasting? Did you buy a plating kit? Also what process did you use to fold the edge on your door skins?
Thanks LtRsZ, The plating is a phosphate solution that I learned about from Chuck (CamarosRus) and Jeff Betz when I first was wanting to try to bring my car back to a numbers matching gold class Camaro. I have since went a different direction with the project. I still like to use the original bolts and fasteners when possible. I have not been able to find a complete bolt kit and the kits that I have purchased from different supply houses have let me down.
Here is a thread in the Original Drivetrain forum:
Here is a link where I buy my solution, I haven' t bought any in several years, hopefully its still available.
They have two different colors, zinc, which is a battle ship gray and manganese which is more black.
It comes with the instructions, but you mix so many ounces with a gallon of water, and a gallon goes a long way. I keep an empty gallon on hand and actually re-use the solution. I just strain it through a coffee filter when pouring it back into the empty container marked used.
The first step is to blast the parts clean:
Next I use a Coleman heater and bring the solution up to temp. You bring the solution up to just about boiling,, I think around 202 degrees, but when you see it just start to boil works for me.
Then I put the parts in and they will fizz for awhile. I take a pair of long needle nose and stir them. After they stop fizzing, I pick the parts out with the needle nose pliers and immediately put them into a pyrex dish of wd-40. This displaces the water. I keep a lid on the pyrex dish and re-use the wd-40 for a long time until it gets a sludge built up on the bottom, then I change it out. Once I remove the part from the wd-40, I dry them with a towel, and coat them with a coating of Boeshield oil. I usually let the boeshield dry on the part overnight to fight rust.
Sounds like a lot, but its not. Once you get the hang of it, you will love the results.
I've been making preparations to remove and replace the trunk pan. I'm was having trouble getting to the back of the trunk pan, so I decided to remove the package tray. I cut it with a thin jig saw metal blade. I wanted a narrow gap. I still plan to brace the remaining package tray with some square tubing.
How found some more damage in the package tray extension panel.
I decided to remove this panel and I'm planning on replacing it. Somebody had done some welding on it and gave up, and just filled it with filler.
I've got some repairs to make on the inner structure due to rust.. This will be done after I remove the quarter.
Also I have been scrapping undercoat and seam sealer.
I remember the previous owner tell me that he had sand blasted around the rear window.
Last, I got the car up in the air ready to start on the trunk pan.
Looking good Russ keep it up man!
So the Camaro Central mirror gaskets have the tab on them to align like the originals? I got a set from Yearone that were flat on the door side and did not use them. If Camaro Central has the right ones I'm going to order a set.
BTW: Absolutely love the rear jack stand elevators and bolted through!!! I gotta steel that idea from ya man. But what is that under the front tires???
And the shop looks great too...love the floor! I can't wait to get a house again with a work garage!
Looking good Russ! I'll get that package tray extension out to you hopefully this weekend.