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Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by Orange71, Mar 21, 2010.
another beautiful, clean install by George!!! Nice job dude!! very purdy
those black lines look cool. What are the braided part hoses made out of?
Thanks Scott and thanks for all the help in figuring out all the fittings I needed!
Marc, they are Earls Pro-Lite 350 nylon braided hose
From the Summit description - Pro-Lite 350 hose is constructed in the U.S.A. of a tough, abrasion-resistant Nylon sheathing, banded to the textile inner braid embedded in the synthetic rubber liner. This gives the hose incredible flexibility, while maintaining the ability to withstand high vacuum and hot oil temperatures. It can withstand a maximum pressure rating of 350 psi, and an operating temperature range of -40 to +300 degrees F. The Pro Lite 350 hose can take the most demanding conditions and still deliver you to the winner's circle.
I like that look alot also George.Id like to go that way when the time comes.It looks low key,all business.
Very clean install! Separating the header flanges and building up the tubes should make a huge difference! I cut my flanges when I installed my headers way back in 1975, because my copy of "How to Hotrod Big Block Chevys" said it would keep them sealed well. It works great, as the only time I've changed gaskets was when I've had the engine aprt for work.
I like the way you reworked the swaybar brace too! Nice touch!
Very nice work George.
man.... and I already went with the regular braided look. To much $ to switch now. Once agian it looks killer
I spent a little time in the garage yesterday evening and got a few things done. As I've mentioned I bought the adjustable rear sway bar kit from PTFB. If your car already has a rear bar or came with the factory sway bar frame mount, this kit is an easy bolt-on.
Mine didn't have either so PTFB also has available fabbed up frame mounts that need to be welded in place on the rear frame rails. I purchased those.
I spoke with Dave (PTFB) about the proper placement of the mounts and he said that it's really not that critical to be in the exact spot of the factory ones and to just get them as close as you can. Going through pics of other guys cars that have the mounts, I'm glad they only needed to be close.
The frame rails on my car, in that area, are different widths and have slightly different angles. I didn't realize that untill I was into this for a while on the left side (skinny side). The mounts I bought seemed to be sized for the skinny side (left) so everything was going pretty smooth. There's an outer re-inforcement steel plate spot welded to the frame rail in that same area that IMO needed to be trimed out so that the mount could be welded directly to the frame.
This pic shows the mount in its place on the left side prior to trimming out the outer frame plate:
As you can see in that pic it looks as though with trimming that outer plate I could move the mount closer to the stock location closer to the axle bump stops. I cut the outer plate where I figured the mount should be and it fit fine there. I moved over to the right side and beforeI test fitted the mount I trimmed the outer plate in the same location as the left. Went the test fit the mount and found the the frame rail in that area wasa good 1/4" wider! Dammit...
I moved the mount rearward (after cutting more of that plate out) and found a spot where the mount could be forced on (BFH) and found another obsticle. On the inner rail at that location is the fuel line...off came the mount and I cut 1/2" off that side. Re-fitted the mount and all was good. Went back to the left side and had to move that one rearward to match the right side. No issues. I tack welded both in position and mocked up the sway bar and down links. Everything fit and everything cleared. Time to start welding.
Left side after I fabbed up a new plate to replace what I previously cut out:
Right side done with a plate fabbed up:
Done for the evening. I'll grind those ugly welds a bit, paint, and re-apply the undercoating later today.
Lookin' good George!