restoring a car trailer

Discussion in 'Garages, Workshops & Tools' started by Prototype4342, Feb 26, 2011.

  1. jrb70454

    jrb70454 New Member

    Oct 12, 2010
    Wilmington, DE
    Looks great- buy new next time and spend your time on your hot rod instead. (Been there!)
  2. K5JMP

    K5JMP Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    yeah, I got a 20 footer with an 8,000lb winch on it this time... makes life a lot easier.:innocent:
  3. MadMike

    MadMike Administrator Staff Member

    Feb 11, 1999
    Dawsonville Georgia
    Couple observations.
    I have short ramps. I'll use my tounge jack to raise the front of my trailer up, which'll tilt the back of my trailer down. Depending on the terain I'm on, I can nearly lay my ramps flat on the ground and simply drive up. Then again, my trailer is 18' long.

    Fix the brakes.
    I tow with a suburban and the 8600# brake system.
    My brakes are designed to stop 8600# of stuff.
    Suburban - 4950,
    some people - 500
    trailer - 2200
    car - 3600
    11250# total. My suburban by itself won't stop it.

    This assumes of course, your brake system on the truck is working as designed. For example, if you're rear brakes are inneffective or misadjusted, you loose some. And if you put the whole braking load on the tow vehicle, you'll wear your primary and only braking system out, so if & when you need to stop - you won't. Plus you'll probably handle like crap.

    Lastly, the safety margin. I have at least ONE time during any trip where someone (else) does something stupid and I have to stop quickly. Like pulling out in front of me and stopping.

    I like that spare hub idea.
    I plan on loosing 1 tire at least once during a trip. I usually don't, but I plan on being able to replace 1 tire. That means I have a jack, tools, spare, etc... capable of changing a tire on either my truck or the trailer, in the rain and at night. quickly.

    Watch the inflation on your tires. My TRAILER tires are rated at 50PSI. So blow them up to 50 PSI so they can carry the amount of weight designed and not over-heat.

    Check the status of your tow vehicle as well. brakes, fluids, hoses, etc... you'll beat the hell out of it during the tow.
  4. K5JMP

    K5JMP Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Mike's on it. He helped guide me onto my trailer at Carlisle a couple years back... so we both use the same system for lowering the rear of the trailer.

    If there is ANY wire at all sticking out of the brakes.. they can be fixed, assuming they are operable. Most likely the reason they were cut in the first place is that they were inop.

    You mentioned leaving Friday.. today..
    Get the brakes fixed. No excuses.
    Have a safe trip and post up when you arrive:cool:
  5. Prototype4342

    Prototype4342 Veteran Member

    Sep 10, 2010
    Las Cruces, NM
    everything on the tow vehicle has been checked, except for the transfer case fluid, which will be done today before we leave. as i said we are getting the brakes checked out by a place on the way out today, we'll see how it goes. the problem is that they cut the wires with no room for splicing or fixing, hence why they are saying they need to be replaced altogether.

    uhaul doesn't do trailer brakes by the way, or at least not the one here in killeen.
  6. Philip

    Philip Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    May 30, 2006
    Marana, AZ
    Have a safe trip, let us know when you have arrived.
  7. I agree!! :eek:
  8. bracketracer-78

    bracketracer-78 Veteran Member

    Sep 5, 2003
    Stevens, PA USA
    way to much tounge weight, move it back .
  9. bracketracer-78

    bracketracer-78 Veteran Member

    Sep 5, 2003
    Stevens, PA USA
    This is my junk loaded. The trailer is a 1977 homebuilt that was made to haul a 1971 Camaro roundy round car. The bottom of the tire rack is still up front. It makes a good wheel chock.

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