Restoration questions...

Discussion in 'Body Restoration' started by FlaJunkie, Feb 28, 2018.

  1. CamarosRus

    CamarosRus Veteran Member

    FlaJunkie....Some of your questions are TOO Vague
    Cant you please be more specific.

    1) The Die Cast Trim around a Standard Grill might be difficult to have re-chromed
    as Ive had big problems with other die cast pieces...
    Buying a Very Good Used 70/71 grill might be a better option

    2) Rocker Panel Moldings...........Having originals stripped and repolished might
    get real spendy not to mention redoing the brite dip anodizing if you choose
    route or NOT !!!!! Ive heard that the repop rocker moldings arent too bad ????

    3) Aluminum Clad Window Reveal Moldings could easily be stripped of OE
    brite dip and polished... Im thinking to leave the Brite Dip off and keep
    waxed polished with one of the newer Nano high tech waxes

    4) Z28 center caps can be polished and maybe you can find some new embossed
    Bow Tie Stickers on EBAY or ???
     
  2. FlaJunkie

    FlaJunkie Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    6,097
    119
    Mar 24, 2001
    Rockledge, Florida
    Great answers...sorry about being vague. While I have some ideas on how to proceed, I am always looking for better ways.

    1) I am planning to remove the grill trim and have it refinished at the chrome shop that did my door handles. They did a super job of it.
    2) I have read that the rocker trim needs to be re-anodized to be correct. Does anyone do this? And I have the repop on it now. They do look good...but I want to keep as much original on the car.
    3) Not sure I understand the original protection process...and does anyone have the skills to adjust dings and bends in the window trim?
    4) Does anyone repair the center cap clips? I haven't looked closely at the original caps, but are they protected with some coating?
     
  3. CamarosRus

    CamarosRus Veteran Member

    Florida Junkie aka Jim, To my knowledge the aluminum rocker moldings
    and aluminum window reveal molding were both coated with BRITE DIP Anodizing.
    Which is different than "CLEAR" anodizing (but I cant explain the diff)

    There are a few places that this but I cant currently give you names.
    In my opinion the cost of removing the old brite dip, removing any dents,
    new polishing (large piece) and applying new BRITE DIP is just TOO
    expensive.......vs finding NOS new ones or living with the OER repops

    Similar situation with the window reveal. Buying used good window reveal
    should be less expensive than having dings and bends removed from your
    original/old trim. I dont KNOW this but am hoping good original BRITE DIP
    might be able to be "polished" a little (without burning through it).
    I'm also thinking that Brite Dip isnt needed on newly polished old trim
    if waxed/sealed/coated with one of the new age NANO paint sealants
    on the market

    Lastly the Z-28 Center caps were pressed from stainless steel, I have had
    some polished better than new. I dont believe a broken mounting clip
    can be repaired........but maybe someone else knows about this.....
    The Bowtie Embossed sticker below are all original.


    tn_IMG_0954.JPG tn_IMG_0955.JPG Z28b.70.BowTie.caps.jpg Z28BowtieCapBackside.jpg Z28c.70.BowTie.caps.Angle.jpg
     
    FlaJunkie likes this.
  4. secondgenaddict

    secondgenaddict Veteran Member

    268
    75
    Dec 29, 2012
    Upstate South Carolina
    The problem becomes the blend line between the clear anodizing and where it was removed, you can't polish the anodizing anywhere near as well as the actual Aluminum.
    IF the original bright dip is dull then it must be removed to have quality results, of course it can be removed using EASY OFF OVEN CLEANER.

    Stainless was chrome plated, including center caps and trim rings, in order to "even" out the finish -ie. make it closer from batch to batch vendor to vendor.

    FWIW it appears the original raised emblems were acid etched using a mask to provide the relief
     
  5. 70lt1z28

    70lt1z28 Veteran Member Gold Member

    2,477
    366
    Oct 3, 1999
    Beavercreek, Ohio, USA
    Guess I'd have to see up close the "raised" part of the center caps. The pictures don't show me anything. I've looked at these things in person and it is very hard to tell to me.

    Just as an FYI...I was quoted a price today of 640.00 to re-chrome the standard pot-metal grill surround. This is "worst case" where it has to go through the copper plating 3 times to fill the pits. If it only takes one pass it is 250.00 less. I didn't think it was pitted that bad really. Anybody have it NOS? Is there a quality repop available? EDIT: Looked at the usual vendors and see it for the RS but not the standard front. Is it out there?

    The bumpers were pricey too. The guy called and asked if I knew there were repops available. He said he can't STRIP the originals for the same price as repops. I said the repops look OK, but are basically foil thickness. He laughed and said he knew but wanted to make sure I knew there were options.
    He quoted me a price of a bit over 2500.00 for bumpers, front-rear fangs, air cleaner lid, inside-outside door handles and the grill surround. He said that is max and it will probably come in less than that but is unsure until he gets them stripped.
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2018
  6. FlaJunkie

    FlaJunkie Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    6,097
    119
    Mar 24, 2001
    Rockledge, Florida
    WOW! I am going to get almost all of these parts done at the local chrome shop I used for my handles. Wonder how close they will be? My grill surround will need some pot metal work. My handles did as well.
     
  7. 70lt1z28

    70lt1z28 Veteran Member Gold Member

    2,477
    366
    Oct 3, 1999
    Beavercreek, Ohio, USA
    Let me know.
    My outside handles are 90 each and the inside handles are 45 each. The outside handles are in good shape with minimal pitting. Same for the insides. The air cleaner lid is 250.
    This guy has done work for me before (Hurst shifter handle, some clear zinc plating) and seemed pretty reasonable on those things. Guess I shouldn't feel too bad, he is doing a mid 60's Catalina or Bonneville and that is going for 14k!! for chrome. He actually doesn't do the stripping-plating (due to EPA) but does the prep work. The plating is done by a large local industrial plating company that won't deal with walk-ins. There really aren't too many choices around here anymore. I've seen his other work and its very high quality. You get what you pay for, I guess.
    www.metal-britepolishing.com/index.html
     
  8. FlaJunkie

    FlaJunkie Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    6,097
    119
    Mar 24, 2001
    Rockledge, Florida
    Guess I'm lucky the shop I use is a complete process place.
     
  9. CamarosRus

    CamarosRus Veteran Member

    I had a LOT of experience with Grill Surround Chrome FAILURES and One Good Job....

    The only shop that ever did mine with excellent results used a hand held "wand"
    (anode) where they could move the anode while the surround was in the tank
    so as to draw or throw the chrome into the corners..

    On at least one of my other surrounds the surround is "nickled
    out" in the corner(s) where the chrome didnt go...........

    The bottom pic shows the nickle in corner...

    I would say that in 2018 IF you could get the QUALITY shown in my Top Three
    pics for $650 that's a fair price.....Otherwise youve paid too much

    Grill2Surround.RallySport.Corner.jpg Grill4Surround.withText.jpg GrillSurround.CornerCloseup.jpg NickledOutCorner.NotMine.jpg
     
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  10. 70lt1z28

    70lt1z28 Veteran Member Gold Member

    2,477
    366
    Oct 3, 1999
    Beavercreek, Ohio, USA
    Those are RS surrounds which I think would be much harder to do.
     
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