Removing the hard seam sealer

Discussion in 'Body Restoration' started by Mr Sunshine, Jan 22, 2018.

  1. Mr Sunshine

    Mr Sunshine Member

    85
    2
    Dec 12, 2016
    Missouri
    What's the best way to remove the hard white seam sealer between the cowl and the firewall? 20180120_162654.jpg
     
  2. Smokey15

    Smokey15 Veteran Member

    1,141
    529
    Aug 13, 2017
    I've had to use a sharpened, shortened putty knife. Haven't tried a sharp bladed multi-tool or air chisel, but I'll bet either would work. Or I get close to it with a picture of Rosie ODumbell. That will make anything go soft.
     
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  3. Mr Sunshine

    Mr Sunshine Member

    85
    2
    Dec 12, 2016
    Missouri
    I'm scraping with different hand tools, putty knife and chisels etc. I think I will try a wire wheel next weekend and see how it goes. If it doesn't go well I'll try a picture of Rosie!
     
  4. budro6968

    budro6968 Veteran Member

    1,990
    262
    Apr 2, 2016
    Jax Florida
    You don't want to want to destroy it with that! LOL. May try a propane torch. heat it and dig it out. Then wire wheel.
     
  5. Jeep43

    Jeep43 Veteran Member

    915
    8
    Mar 30, 1999
    Connecticut
    Wire wheel in a die grinder should clean it out, will get the metal bare too.
     
  6. Jeep43

    Jeep43 Veteran Member

    915
    8
    Mar 30, 1999
    Connecticut
    Wire wheel in a die grinder should clean it out, will get the metal bare too.
     
  7. steins70z28

    steins70z28 Veteran Member

    184
    18
    Apr 14, 2012
    Tulsa, OK
    I've used a 5 way putty knife. Sharp and very stiff and will stand up to a hamm 20180123_075913-1.jpg er. Eye protection and gloves are a must.
     

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  8. 1978 Z/28

    1978 Z/28 New Member Gold Member

    27
    4
    Jul 17, 2017
    New Brunswick
    I bought a oscillating tool from harbor freight, sealant just peals away does not become air borne
    https://www.harborfreight.com/power...iable-speed-oscillating-multi-tool-63111.html.
    great for removing ziebart and dried joint filler. I use the 3/8 bi metal blades with teeth in close areas
    https://www.harborfreight.com/power...n-bi-metal-multi-tool-plunge-blade-61810.html
    1 1/8 in bi metal blade with teeth
    https://www.harborfreight.com/power...n-bi-metal-multi-tool-plunge-blade-61812.html
    and rigid scarper
    https://www.harborfreight.com/power...eel-multi-tool-rigid-scraper-blade-61828.html
    here is a picture of how well it cleaned IMG_3244.JPG
     
  9. Mr Sunshine

    Mr Sunshine Member

    85
    2
    Dec 12, 2016
    Missouri
    The $40 HF tool sounds like a good option. I know eastwood also has an electric rotary tool that works good for this and costs $200. And I'm usually the guy that if I need the tool I buy the tool, but it seams like I've been spending more on tools lately that on my car so looking to avoid another high dollar specialty tool.

    So if I torch this stuff will it just burn-off? As hard as it is I can't imagine that it would turn soft again, but I guess I can give it a try, nothing much to lose.
     

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