Questions about suspension and brake rebuild/upgrade.

Discussion in 'Suspension, Steering, Brake & Wheel Topics' started by GageL, Aug 19, 2017.

  1. GageL

    GageL New Member

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    Jun 17, 2013
    United States
    Hello, I am going through my rear and front suspension and brakes and I have quite a few questions. This car is mostly street but will be doing some autocross and some drag.
    1. I think i'm set on getting global west front coil springs with about one inch lowering, and their multi leaf L-3 with 1-1/4 drop. They also offer the same height drop but with a reverse eye and a 2 inch drop reverse eye spring. What is the advantage of the reverse eye? Also, i'm trying to get the car level (its kind of got a rake going on), GWS recommended the regular eye 1-1/4 springs to be level and I just wanted get your guys opinion. Also i'm going to use their del-a-lum bushing/bearing for the leafs.

    2. I've read that 2nd gen trans am disk/disk and 79 corvette brake boosters are an upgrade. I plan on keeping the rear drums for awhile, are the brake boosters that much better of an upgrade for 100 bucks? And are they a direct bolt on with the fire wall and my MC? they are a smaller diameter so it'll save on space.

    3. Should I replace the MC and proportioning valve? I think they work fine and do not leak.

    4. I plan to use these braided lines from ricks camaro, am i good to go with these?

    5. Is energy suspension good for subframe bushings? Best way of installing them? Should seems be welded on the subframe?

    6. Are centric sport stop slotted rotors good compared to stock? going to use stock calipers.

    7. What Hawk HPS pads should I get for mostly street use with some racing?

    8. Do you guys have a preference on wheel bearing brands?

    9. Performance brake fluid? How do I flush and add the new fluid? Is there an issue if one fluid comes in contact with another kind? I would think to just open all four corners and let it drain into buckets then refill with new fluid then bleed all four corners till each have clear fluid coming out.

    10. Going to use moog for everything else in the suspension and steering, any problem with that?
    Thanks for any help in advance.
     
  2. biker

    biker Veteran Member

    Only experience I have with aftermarket springs is Hotchkis. They are 2" drop which is more than u want and more than I thought I wanted, but they are a quality piece, installed easy and ride really well. I used Vette Brakes rear fiberglass monoleafs in my 77 many years ago and loved them but there are better ones out there now. The Hotchkis (Bilstein) shocks are great.
    Energy body bushings are poly I believe? Most here will recommend solid, and thats the way I'm going too. Subframe connectors would be the next step from there.
    Not sure on the details of the booster or master cyl, but braided lines make a big diff in feel. Just install carefully so they arent in a position to get rubbed as they arent durable for that. And some are not certifiable for street use. And yes, good procedure for draining and filling system. By the time you bleed the air, you will have all the old stuff purged.
    Just use DOT3 fluid. Thats what our cars use and it will mix fine with the old DOT3 in your system.
     
  3. GageL

    GageL New Member

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    Jun 17, 2013
    United States
    Hello Biker, I do believe that a two inch drop would be too much for me aswell. I was looking at the vette brakes compsite leafs and ridetech, and the VB leafs are considerably cheaper than ridetechs at 800 bucks just for the leafs. The reason I want choose GW is ive read good things about them and i mostly wanted a matched set instead of mixing different stuff to try and get my car where I want it and i didnt want to spend to much because I eventually (probably a long while out) switch to for link because I heard that its the best for all around racing and street. The reason I am changing spings is i dont like the rake i have and according to this http://www.nastyz28.com/tech/camarorideheight.html my car is a couple inches lower in the front and a couple inches higher in the rear compared to the link. Plus to get a jack under the engine crossmember someone else has to pull up on the bumper or i have to jack from somewhere else to get the suspension to uncompress a little then go back to the crossmember.

    What brand does this forum recommend for solid subframe mounts? I just saw the sticky for changing them out. Also i thought i remember reading something about welding the seems on the subframe, is this necessary? And for the subframe connectors, what are the ones the forum recommends, I'd like to gave it be bolt in but also retain ground clearance. I was looking at this one https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1976/chevrolet/camaro/parts/k5901622.html which looks sweet but is it more bling than a good crossmember and subframe connector? and i dont think i need a drive shaft loop right now.

    Thanks for the info on the steel lines, didnt know that they were weak to rubbing i didnt even think that, and they are approved for the street.

    Is dot3 good for racing? I dont think itll get too hot from autocross and drag. I read that the performance stuff helps with feel in the pedal but i was looking at the temp stuff for them and i dont think my stuff will get that hot.
     
  4. biker

    biker Veteran Member

    There are other guys here with much more experience with brake and suspension stuff,
    And I hope they weigh in here for you. My only advice is to change one thing at a time, keep things simple and test/retest in relation to a baseline.

    As for manufacturers? Keith at Customworks is a site sponsor, a real racer and a patient guy with noobs like us. Well worth your time and money to deal with him.
     
  5. GageL

    GageL New Member

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    Jun 17, 2013
    United States
    Yeah one thing at a time sounds easier both money wise and I'll know what went wrong if something does instead of guessing which new part is causing the issue.
     
  6. NOT A TA

    NOT A TA Veteran Member

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    Feb 12, 2009
    Delray Beach Florida
     
  7. GageL

    GageL New Member

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    Jun 17, 2013
    United States
    So is there any benefit with using the trans am brake booster though if im staying with stock drums in the rear and stock replacement brakes up front?

    Should I leave the body mounts alone till i'm ready for sfc's?

    It's okay to use taller ball joints with stock control arms if the car is being lowered then?

    Is that kit really worth 70 bucks for washers and I presume longer bolts? could i just go buy the same hardware at the store and use it or am i missing something?

    Any experience with GW vs Custom works Performance?

    I saw on CW website that the front springs can lower up to 2 inches. if this happens to be too much they have spring spacers to raise the car. Would it be okay to use those if needed? also I could get the BB springs (I've got a SB) for less lowering, would that be okay if needed?
     
  8. NOT A TA

    NOT A TA Veteran Member

    159
    40
    Feb 12, 2009
    Delray Beach Florida
    I wouldn't do the BB springs with a small block, they'd be really stiff on the street.
     
  9. GageL

    GageL New Member

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    Jun 17, 2013
    United States
    I agree with not using the BB springs, i'm going to give custom works a call and see what they think about my ride height concerns.

    Are these the tall ball joints? http://www.jegs.com/i/Proforged/469/101-10020/10002/-1?ymm=4294829810+4294829791+4294829509

    What solid body bushings do you recommend?

    So slotted is going to perform just as well as regular rotors? I can get two regular rotors for the same price as one slotted, and they're both from Centric.

    will any brand of wheel bearings suffice? I was going to get the ones from centric.

    Is this the ford dot 3 you were talking about? https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...16/brake-fluid-17733/brake-fluid/pm1c/4488444
     

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