Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Tips 'n' Tricks Topic' started by smallblockchev, Feb 1, 2018.
Take your driveshaft out and loosen but dont remove the bolts for the tranny mount.
I am doing this now and just pulled my pan off. I don't have a fan shrowed or fans ... I use electric fans. I have a quicktime bell so I had to remove the bottom bolts. I removed the motor mount bolts. I jacked up my engine using the damper and a screw jack until both sides just cleared the old mounts.
Once all that was done I was able to remove it ... I have a Milodon wide pan so if you have a regular one you should be easier.
I do have a lift in my garage.
I just use a wide piece of wood under the oil pan to jack it up. Once it has some clearance then put blocks of 2X4 or what ever fits between the M/M halves. I don't use the balancer to jack on.
That's the way I roll too. Too many people think you need a high performance or high volume pump on their rebuilt SBC; they don't. A stock volume/pressure Melling pump is all a SBC needs; especially with new tight main bearings. Some guys block off the oil pressure bypass. Check that when you get the pump off.
Thanks for the reply’s every one.
Cadillac Al is right, standard volume/ standard pressure melling pump for a stock pan on a sbc. M55 pump
Careful on the M55. Melling redesigned it and the casting is lighter duty, some claim the neck is susceptible to breaking. They actually include a slip of paper warning it is not suitable for high performance use. YMMV.
Second, you mention first start up, but what were the pressure readings with the engine fully up to temp???
This is going to be a long post from me so hang on it's going to be a bumpy ride.
IMHO, pull the motor. Why you may ask? Because something is radically WRONG to have an oil pump with that much pressure at idle in a SBC!
Who rebuilt the motor? Please tell me that you have a parts list of what was put in the motor and that the bearing clearances were verified.
I've seen a few new/rebuilt motors with that high of an oil pressure and usually the builder shimmed up the relief valve to achieve higher pressures. Why anyone does that is beyond me.
But I've also seen where the oil pressure increased over time and it was because something went wrong with the bearings. Hence, my telling you to pull the motor so that you can look at the front and rear main bearings along with the #1 rod bearing (as it's the last bearing to get oil). Hopefully the bearings are OK.
I've built too many SBC's to keep track of how many (50 or 60?) from mild to wild (bone stock 283 to a 450 HP 302 SBC animal motor that reved to 9500 rpms). I learned a lot of do's and don'ts in the last 50 years of building them.
One thing I learned is that a high volume high pressure oil pump is not needed. All a SBC requires a good standard volume oil pump with a good supply of oil (IE: bigger volume oil pan) and a good windage tray to prevent the oil from being whipped around instead of flowing back to the pickup is required. Small block Chevy oil gallery passage restrictors must be installed IF you are running a solid lifter cam.
THEE MOST important thing is to make sure the oil pump pickup is between 3/8" to 1/2" off the bottom of the pan. No less. No more. AND to somehow attach the oil pump pickup to the pump (either buy the pickup that bolts to the oil pump or braze the pickup to the pump).
In around 2000, Melling had a cheap pump on the market. I emailed them back then and this is the link here that address what I sent them and what they replied: http://nastyz28.com/threads/melling...rous-design-change.65870/page-19#post-2416550 . Later on in that post, apparently Melling pulled that cheap pump off the market so HOPEFULLY you don't have one of them.
What weight oil are you running? You do NOT need anything over 40W oil! AFTER I break a motor in with mineral oil (regular motor oil) I run nothing but synthetic 10W30 oil in them.
I hope that your engine isn't hurt and I sincerely hope that I helped you.