Proper Setup for Relocating the Battery to the Trunk

Discussion in 'Electrical Systems' started by sandiego74, Nov 4, 2017.

  1. dave@ztech

    dave@ztech Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    368
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    Mar 27, 2016
    NY
    OK, so I get the switch thing, makes sense , and ok we agree on the weight balance thing, however, the hi amp wire inside the car, I know it is only hot while starting, that said, if, and that's one of those big IF's , it is inside the car, and does short, have you every had the small wire the one that grounds at the battery to the body short? and it goes all red hot and melts the plastic cover off in one second, then goes super nova hot, then burns in two pieces ?? I think I would rather have that happen on the outside of my car then happen on the inside, I am sure that it doesn't happen often, however, it would certainly be a bitch, if it did,
    I also was thinking of the inside, just not sure if it is worth the risk , maybe more will chime in, the risk will increase, every where it can move back and forth and make it to ground,
    I forgot, what type of wire did you use, welding cable or a true 01, or 00 gauge wire?
     
  2. sandiego74

    sandiego74 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Feb 23, 2009
    San Diego, CA
    All valid points, and I understand your concern, but I have not had that happen to me, thankfully. Then again, all sorts of dangerous things could potentially happen to the car. It is, in fact, almost 45 years old, so it's kind of expected. That's not to say that you shouldn't take precautionary measures. Just a thought.

    As for the wire, I just went with regular 1/0 gauge cable from a local battery shop and the kit from Summit.
     
  3. dave@ztech

    dave@ztech Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    368
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    Mar 27, 2016
    NY
    I understand, I also want to see pictures when you dress up the wiring, and have it all finished, it looks like a really nice install, however I think I will chicken out and go outside the car for the wiring, how do you like the PTFB upper control arms, I am thinking of them with delum lower bushings
     
  4. sandiego74

    sandiego74 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Feb 23, 2009
    San Diego, CA
    Either way, good luck!

    I really like the PTFB upper control arms, and I'd highly recommend them. I also went with del-a-lum bushings in the stock lower control arms and was definitely happy with that, as well.
     
  5. dave@ztech

    dave@ztech Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    368
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    Mar 27, 2016
    NY
    OK great, I may be asking for tips on them and the solid body mounts that I still have to install , if my car would get some paint on it, and now it is winter again, well soon, I want to start working on the car, my place if full of damn parts!!
     
  6. ErikNORCAL

    ErikNORCAL Veteran Member

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    now in VA
  7. Jim Streib

    Jim Streib Veteran Member

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    Apr 6, 2004
    Saint Louis, MO USA
    I'm late to the game (haven't visited the site in over 9 years or so) but anyway just to throw some things out that you might want to think about is, the Optima battery you showed CAN vent and ideally needs to be in an enclosure that is sealed and vented to the exterior.
    From Optima's web site which states, "When used with a properly regulated constant voltage charging system (such as an alternator), the OPTIMA will not emit hydrogen gas. However, gassing can occur when charging at excessive voltage levels or in extreme high-temperature conditions. In automotive applications, this typically will not happen if the alternator/regulator stays below 15 volts." :

    https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/support/battery-basics/battery-gas

    Quote from Optima:
    [​IMG]

    The one model of Red Top Battery that has nipples for attaching vent tubes to:
    [​IMG]

    Now on your battery from what I can see, is there are probably what optima calls "Self Sealing Safety Valves" which I believe are to allow pressure that might get built up inside the battery case, to vent out.
    [​IMG]

    These type of "Self Sealing Safety Valves" make it hard to attach a hose or vent tube to them unlike some of the other designs with small nipples on them and on an install of that style of battery with these type of "Safety Valves" that are not really designed to have a hose easily attached to them, it might be easier to put the battery in an enclosure and then vent the enclosure to the exterior of the vehicle.
    -------
    Onto another area is on your install I did notice what you have what looks like a section of fusible link wire off of the solenoid which I'm guessing powers up the fuse block and other electronics on the car and if it is, this is great but what you also might think about is fusing the main positive wire off of the battery that feeds the master on/off switch.
    Here are some install's with main power fusing off of the battery from regular individuals as well as some from car manufacturer's:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Chevrolet Cruze:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Jaguar:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    And some of the issues without proper protection:
    A Camaro from Drag Week a few years ago while driving to an event, the main cable shorted filling the trunk and then the interior with smoke:
    [​IMG]
    Another one with an electrical short:
    [​IMG]
    18 Wheel rig:
    [​IMG]
    An Optima battery shorted out externally:
    [​IMG]
    Short jumper possibly between battery and master on/off switch ?:
    [​IMG]

    -------
    Some further input on your install, is I would get some covers sorta like what is on the battery posts to cover the connections on your master on/off switch as well as the connections on the solenoid. You never know if something metal might hit exposed terminals in the trunk and then short to ground.
    ---
    I did notice on your install the rubber insulated "P" clamp on the power cable by the door sill. I think these are great for positioning and holding large cables and I use them a lot.

    Good luck with your project.

    Jim
     
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  8. larrylarry

    larrylarry Veteran Member

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    Dec 22, 2011
    San Antonio Tx
    A better place to run your ground wire to is to one of the bolts on the tail shaft housing on the transmission. 2 or 3 ft shorter an zip tie it to where ever it tucks in tight & gives a good ground to the engine. Then run a ground wire from one of the unused bolt holes on the head to the frame.
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2017
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  9. muscl car

    muscl car Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    You can always cover your 12v pos (+) wires with convulute tubing or sleeved with 1/2" dia fuel hose to protect against chafing

    My 12v + pos battery wire from the disconnect to the starter , the disconnect to the battery and Alternator hot wire to the disconnect all are sleeved with hi temp convulute tubing
     
  10. sandiego74

    sandiego74 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    953
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    Feb 23, 2009
    San Diego, CA
    Thank you for adding the helpful information!
     
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