Poor brakes after all new parts installed Help please

Discussion in 'Suspension, Steering, Brake & Wheel Topics' started by Stox58, Oct 22, 2017.

  1. Stox58

    Stox58 New Member

    Jan 16, 2016
    United Kingdom
    Wow thanks for all the replies !, for too many for me comment on each one !

    All brake lines were replaced, including the rear flex line

    Front calipers correct way around, I will have to check this

    They did say they bench bleed

    The brake pedal doesn't feel very hard and pumping the brake makes no difference

    Please note I've also had an aftermarket brake pedal fitted as well

    Can someone please recommend the correct tool for measuring the vacuum pressure, as I think I will check this first before looking at re-bleeding the system.

    Cheers from Luke
  2. budro6968

    budro6968 Veteran Member

    Apr 2, 2016
    Jax Florida
    Vacuum gauge. Probably find one at your local parts store or on line.
  3. HawkX66

    HawkX66 Member

    Sep 20, 2017
    This won't make a difference when you initially bleed the brakes. You should be able to get a hard pedal without the car running/vacuum to the booster. If you don't have a hard pedal now, you more than likely still have air in the system somewhere or it's something with one of the a/m parts they installed.
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2017
  4. Da_Raabi

    Da_Raabi Veteran Member

    Jan 19, 2011
    Daytona Beach, FL
    Aftermarket pedal?

    Sure seems like a ratio issue to me! Pedal ratio does have to be matched to the booster combo being used, hence why my hydroboost truck has a different pedal than a vac boosted truck and why I had to redrill my Camaro pedal for the T/A dual-diaphragm booster!


    When I did a complete rebuild on my brakes a couple months ago (new EVERYTHING. 4w discs, lines, hoses, calipers, M/C, booster etc etc) I had no problem bleeding the old fashioned way with my wife pumping the pedal while I cracked the bleeders. Took maybe an hour total and I've got fantastic brakes! If this "pro shop" has half a brain I'd think they could do it too.

    Do a little googling on your particular aftermarket parts. Make sure that your pedal will actually work with your booster. Maybe call whoever you purchased the parts from for some help. Maybe call manufacturers. This won't cost you anything but time, and at the very least will give you piece of mind that your parts are correct.

    Also, if you have your original pedal, try slapping that in to see if it helps. It should only take 5-10 minutes to do and could help... assuming of course that your new booster is correct...

    Post up part numbers of what you used. We might be able to help based on that too!
  5. budro6968

    budro6968 Veteran Member

    Apr 2, 2016
    Jax Florida
    Learned something new. There was almost Half an inch difference between DR/DK to DK/DK. That would make a difference in the travel noticeable.
  6. ol' grouch

    ol' grouch Veteran Member

    Jul 4, 2013
    Evansville, In.

    I use a small brass machinists hammer. I used to have a brass tack hammer but it grew legs.
  7. ol' grouch

    ol' grouch Veteran Member

    Jul 4, 2013
    Evansville, In.

    Who put the front calipers on? Are they on the correct sides? One left and one right? Two of one kind or two opposite ones but on the wrong side and the air will be in there forever.
  8. rchydzik

    rchydzik Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Nov 13, 1999
    Colbert, WA USA
    Make sure the rear drums are properly adjusted. They should be dragging just a bit without the brakes applied. The pedal will be very soft and go very far down if they are not correctly adjusted.
  9. phat80

    phat80 Veteran Member

    Jan 4, 2013
    Victoria BC
    New pedal..hmmm, push rod measurement needed here.

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