Poor brakes after all new parts installed Help please

Discussion in 'Suspension, Steering, Brake & Wheel Topics' started by Stox58, Oct 22, 2017.

  1. 71RS/SS396

    71RS/SS396 Veteran Member

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    Aug 26, 2008
    Wake Forest NC
    I've never had any luck with those dual 7" boosters working worth a damn and they really don't work well if you have less than 15" of vacuum.
     
  2. phat80

    phat80 Veteran Member

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    Jan 4, 2013
    Victoria BC
    bleeding the brakes.. I had a hell of a job bleeding the brakes when i redid my entire system. I work by myself so I couldn't get someone to pump the brake while opening the bleeder. Finally what I did was hook up a hose to each bleeder, ran the line into a small bottle of brake fluid and then opened all the bleeders. Eventually the air worked it's way out, took a couple of days..
     
  3. badazz81z28

    badazz81z28 Veteran Member

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    May 4, 2001
    Las Vegas, NV
    I use a dual oem booster, no issues
     
  4. Da_Raabi

    Da_Raabi Veteran Member

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    Jan 19, 2011
    Daytona Beach, FL
    Hmm. If the OP is talking about the OEM T/A dual booster, I wonder if he knew to modify the brake pedal to make sure the ratio is correct? That will result in very similar issues as what he described!

    I did this with mine and also have no problems with the T/A dual booster.
     
  5. badazz81z28

    badazz81z28 Veteran Member

    13,961
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    May 4, 2001
    Las Vegas, NV
    ^^That's not it. I run the same booster on my 70 and didn't change a thing.
     
  6. budro6968

    budro6968 Veteran Member

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    Apr 2, 2016
    Jax Florida
    I never have help when I need it so I use the bottle method with a clear Tygon tube. Fill the bottle up a little with brake fluid and run the line in and make sure it is submerged in the fluid. I use something to steady the bottle so it won't tip over and open the bleeder then go pump the pedal nice and slow and to the bottom of travel a few times. Go close the bleeder and move to the next. Make sure to keep an eye on the level in the M/C, don't let it run dry. Should not take that long.
     
  7. badazz81z28

    badazz81z28 Veteran Member

    13,961
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    May 4, 2001
    Las Vegas, NV
    ^^^ Simple Solution, Russell Speed Bleeders. No other method doing it by yourself can match. They are a life saver.
     
  8. ol' grouch

    ol' grouch Veteran Member

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    Jul 4, 2013
    Evansville, In.

    That's the way I do it. just be sure to loop the hose up and then down so any bubbles are stuck at the top and you can see them. This way you know the air is all out.
     
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  9. budro6968

    budro6968 Veteran Member

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    Apr 2, 2016
    Jax Florida
    I usually go around twice if I see bubbles and take a rubber mallet or dead blow plastic hammer and tap the calipers to release any trapped air. Plus when you use a catch bottle it is a nice clean job. I cringe when I see people let letting fluid run all over the ground.
     
  10. HawkX66

    HawkX66 Member

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    Sep 20, 2017
    MI/MA
    I just picked up a pneumatic bleeder for $30. Priceless. I've been bleeding brakes for 40 years and this is by far the easiest method to me. If the flex lines aren't good, you're never going to get it to bleed. I can't count how many times I've beaten myself up for 1/2 hour trying to bleed the rear brakes only to find the perfect looking flex line is corroded/blocked on the inside. Bleeding brakes is very fast and easy. If it's not, you have a blockage, bad MC, hold off valve or bad proportioning valve.

    This one says it's for motorcycles, but it works perfect for cars too.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BANZSJO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
     

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