? on flattening agent PPG

Discussion in 'Body Restoration' started by spicewood1, Jan 1, 2012.

  1. spicewood1

    spicewood1 BANNED

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    Jul 16, 2001
    NC
    Seems you can vary the look of the SPI quite a bit too. I use a 1.4 and the difference between shooting it straight and shooting it 10%-15% reduced is huge. Shot on the lower temp limit around 64 degrees shop temp it laid down damn near gloss! I had to hit it again to knock it off a bit.

    Dog - you shooting the SPI and leaving it as a topcoat? Looks good to me.
     
  2. boardog

    boardog Veteran Member

    842
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    Dec 8, 2006
    north ga
    number of coats and the mil thickness will determine the gloss. 2 medium coats with a flash time of 30 minutes between the 2 is what i like. the epoxy does stay soft for a couple of days. i miss the summer sunshine. you could let the part tack real good and then put it out in the sun. the next day it was cured. the epoxy does not dry brittle like a top coat. i like that, it does not chip as easy and will flex a lot more than a paint. yes bare epoxy with no top coat. spi now has uv protection built into it. so it is good to be out in the sun. barry[the owner] told me it will last for years. 3 years ago i never used epoxy as a under hood paint. i was not sold on it. but after using it on 5-6 cars i really like it and have had good results using it. btw the color between the hood and inner fender is the same. the pics make it look way different.
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2012
  3. earlysecond

    earlysecond Veteran Member

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    Aug 9, 2002
    Altoona, PA
    spicewood,

    I have sprayed many gallons of SPI primer and was never able to mar it after enough time for cure. It will harden well and is very durable.

    Your call of course but you have some good options
     
  4. CamarosRus

    CamarosRus Veteran Member

    Boardog, What do you use for the more glossy upper/lower control arms, firewall blower motor plenum box, Air Cleaner and Radiator. How do you "paint" these parts,and prime them.

    Just to clarrify, on your restorations, are you shading the subframe, fender wells, core support, underhood and cowl/firewall ALL the same, OR are you intentionally changing up the mix/formula or your application techniques ?????
     
  5. CamarosRus

    CamarosRus Veteran Member

    These are my poor pictures of the smooth, no orange peel, GLASURIT ($$$) underhood paint I was writing about above.........

    Maybe the SPI epoxy black can acheive the same look, (maybe not)......

    For the HUGE difference in cost, 99% of people should go with SPI and Call It GOOD!!!!!



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  6. junky1

    junky1 Veteran Member

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    Dec 22, 2011
    cocoa florida
    there is another way you can accomplish this finish also....take some base-coat black and add a bit of hardner to the 1/1 mix...you will get the same look and alot cheaper than using flattening agent
     
  7. boardog

    boardog Veteran Member

    842
    4
    Dec 8, 2006
    north ga
    are you talking about a urethane base? if so it will need a top coat. the base is not designed to be used without a clear over the top. even with a hardner mixed in it. may look good a short period of time but will fail later on. the urethane base is way to flat compared to gm's original black.
     
  8. CamarosRus

    CamarosRus Veteran Member

    I was refering to Single Stage Black and flattener.......

    To be honest with you, not being experienced my self, I'm not positive what type of paint.....

    One thing I'm convinced of after LOOKING at many restorations, not many painters know how to apply these underframe, underhood unpolished, unsanded Blacks with a smooth, non oranage peel, flowed out finish.......
     
  9. spicewood1

    spicewood1 BANNED

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    Jul 16, 2001
    NC
    It is hard indeed Chuck. I laid out some more today on small parts and the second coat looks quite different than the first and it does need 2. Hard to lay 2 wet coats and have it slick. My issue is still with the water based W&G remover. As fast as I can go the bare steel parts are still flash rusting before I can get it all wiped dry. I hate this stuff but Barry swears by it. I like the old solvent based cleaners.
     
  10. boardog

    boardog Veteran Member

    842
    4
    Dec 8, 2006
    north ga
    spicewood try this trick, as cold as it is take a heat gun and warm the part up right before you spray it. get it warm, wipe it down and spray it. epoxy will not lay flat on cold metal. you can reduce the 2nd coat with more reducer if needed. i have gone to 20-25% and it worked great. i also sent you a pm
     

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