Maximum torque for a Super T-10

Ego huh?

Well, I feel sorry for you, but you still shouldn't go around attacking people on forums because you got something wrong and they didn’t agree with you, you should try to act mature and be civil on forums, so for the third time
same steel shafts and gears bud

 

^^ on what? Just T-10 or all 4 speeds because it seems that is the contention here however not even all T10s used the same parts (28 versus 32 spline output shafts)

 

yup, he has a nice car
Still the ego huh?
Same Steel same steel same steel
Well, I’ve had enough, Take this advice and learn about the topic you write about because that last answer about
“variables” was so full of Nothing, I couldn't believe I was reading something like that on an informational forum, It had absolutely Zero to do with the same steel being used in the all Super T10’s gears and shafts and even the Richmond’s for that matter- So for the last time, THEY all have the same steel gears and shafts. The most torque is 375 EXCEPT for the Nodular Iron Cases which put it up into the 400’s

That’s it, nothing else to add.
Except
Perhaps this , how many bearings are on the end of the input shaft where it meets the main shaft? It’s not online, but a builder knows the answer, either that, what’s in-between the 2nd & 3rd gears on some, but not others? Not online, but someone who has gotten their hands dirty with many, many transmissions knows the answer. Since you implied I don’t know what I am talking about, suppose you answer that one in the next three minutes

 

I had a stock 76 T/A. 400 / 4 speed / 3.23 posi. They all came with Super T10 (2.64 first gear in mine). It took a fair amount of abuse from me over a couple years and mine was a fairly stock 400 with headers, but I did blow it and still have the counter gear sitting on a shelf with a few teeth missing from second gear when I blew it in 1985. I still have the transmission in storage waiting for repurpose. We were going to use it in my son's 71 396 Camaro, but he wisely decided to go with a TKO600.

What TKO 5sp (late 70s) are you referring too?

 

What a Tremec?
No I wasn't talking about that 5-speed, although I have heard good things about it, I am not sure what the torque rating is for it though, what is the 5 gear overdrive, a .6? .72?

I was referring to a Super T-10 which I have built also know where to get parts for it

 

Oh yeah, tony, I just saw that his TA came with the super T10 in '76 , but One thing I know GM did back in those days was to use parts they had left over from the year before, however I thought the super T-10 was used in the 2nd gen all the way till 1981, if they skipped a year, well, I sure don't know everything about what years exactly that S T10 was used, I thought it was every one. although .450 isn't super huge lift, those 455's had HUGE torque and I believe that the car shook, another thing that happened sometimes to those F-bodies was that the windshields cracked from the torque unless you connected the frame, and then it still would sometimes! Yup, super-bad!
I think my 385ci is about .528, and yeah, it shakes too as the tires try to hook up. but the redline I chose is 6800, not no 7200! But it still pulls HARD to 155- I don't think I'd want to go 178.
Let me change that, I KNOW I don't want to go 178!
By the way, Super nice TA it was back then!
More on windshield F Body cracks and Nova's
In my 81 Z I did, and a buddy of mine did it with his 79 Nova.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensi...their-windshield-because-too-much-torque.html

http://www.camaros.net/forums/10-tech-2000/1306-body-stress-cracks.html
Cracks are a widespread condition with guys that have monster torque- sometimes the back glass cracked up Drag racing too -It's normal a lot of guys haven't heard about it, but it's funny when know it all's don't have a clue about it

 

^ have you been drinking lol.

I’d be curious to see a Fbody that has a cracked windshield from the torque the engine produced. I know none of my sec gens had suspension stable enough for 100 let alone 158mph

 

My 1980 4 speed Z28 has 3.42 1st gear ratio. My transmission guy (45 years exp.) Said they are pretty tough. Im putting 400 rwtq to my Z28 and have had no issues.

 

Beautiful Car! Same color as mine too, same hood scoop with the black part
I cannot see the interior but imagine it might be black like mine is.

Your Super T 10, have you seen the input shaft? There are Ring notches near the end of it which is a means of identifying the gear ratio’s. Page 2 has some stuff about that

Is that the original Tranny? I didn't know they put that 1st gear in the 1980's

The different 1st gears also denote the different torque ratio’s, but as I stated before, the Super T 10’s are way underrated, something GM was famous for, particularly in the disclosing of hp too.

Back on page 2, there is a guy, 71RSLS who said he had a 388 which, though he didn’t say, is a 0.060 over-3.750 stroke.

Bore squared, times stroke, times .7854, times amount of cylinders=cubic inches

(You can switch the .7854 and the stroke and still get the same figure by the way-cool huh?)

anyway, he said he had 650hp going to that Super T 10 & that he drag raced and it lasted longer than Muncie’s and other tranny’s he had.
also on page 2 there are the different Super T 10's notches & Torque Ratio's
Now that I have had my Z since ‘99, I don’t race it around anymore(used too!) but I know it’s fast and don’t care about proving it. Besides, in Texas, you get caught racing, The car is impounded and driver arrested mandatory. NOT worth it so I just go the speed limit now and take it easy, maybe once in a while punch it a little but that is it.
Besides, it should last for years if you take care of it, don't speed shift etc

I would recommend that you go to

https://www.musclecardiy.com/transmissions/how-to-rebuild-borgwarner-transmissions/

Super T 10 Rebuilt site

Copy it onto Libreoffice, open office or Microsoft word, then convert it to a pdf file

I do that a lot and keep both files,

Anyway, you will have a complete breakdown of your transmission. They aren’t that hard, a lot easier than automatics.

Use a GL4 oil.

It CANNOT say GL5 on it. Stay Lube GL4 at NAPA is a good brand.

What GL4 is designed for are the brass synchronizer gears, The GL5 has sulfur which is harmful to brass which is used in differentials. Some oils have GL4 and GL5 on the bottle-DO NOT USE them, the bottle cannot say anything but GL4 on it- your trans guy probably knows that, so ask him, always ask an expert even if you ask on a forum because you can get a LOT of incorrect information online
I keep the oil down just a little bit below the fill hole-about 1/8" just so I can wet my finger when I check it
I had to go with a Kevlar clutch because I tore up stock Hays and that was just punching it after the clutch pedal was out.
If you ever pull the trans and check the input shaft rings/notches, don't forget to check the input shaft bushing imside the crankshaft, They also make a roller bearing for instead of that bushing, BUT, if it ever failed, it will destroy the shaft tip. I use an old school bronze bushing as do most drivers.
There you go, that’s it

Yup, nice car you got! Should catch the eye of a lot of sweeties!
I never drove one of those turbo Buick's, pretty quick huh?

 

On my 72, I cracked the windshield and popped the rear glass out in the same night. It already had sub frame connectors on it and solid body bushings. It had a 388 stroker in it at the time with a 4 speed. After that it got a 6 point cage. That car was driven pretty hard. Haha The rear glass seal was pretty dry and that's why it popped but it still was a WTF moment.