Maximum torque for a Super T-10

Discussion in 'Transmission & Driveline Topics' started by Adam G, Sep 15, 2005.

  1. Adam G

    Adam G Veteran Member

    Apr 7, 2004
    Long Island NY
    Does anyone have an idea as to the approximate maxium torque rating that a Borg Warner super T-10 can handle?
  2. 79T/Aman

    79T/Aman Veteran Member NastyZ28 Sponsor NazstyZ28 Sponsor Lifetime Gold Member

    Oct 7, 2004
    Dickson TN.
    depends on the first gear ration that you have

    frame connectors, roll bars, suspension, engine parts
  3. badazz81z28

    badazz81z28 Veteran Member

    May 4, 2001
    Las Vegas, NV
    350ftlbs I would guess is the max with traction. Mine lived behind a 454 with about a smidge over 400ftlbs.I will surely smoke them before I snap it with radials
  4. 71camaroL88

    71camaroL88 Veteran Member

    Jan 29, 2005
    Pittsburgh, PA USA
    My friend witha 76 TA 455/4sp 50th anniversery has a borg warner and his car MOVES!!!!! 3:23 gears, revvin the 455 to 7200rpm, max speed is 178. It keeps you back in the seat the whole way up. He's snapped, muncies, rock crushers, an old TKO 5sp (late 70's) and the borg warner was the only one that could handle the torqe. his cam is somthing like .450in lift. his max lift he wont tell me, but he said he LITERALY shook the car apart. (He ran with 10sec cars back in the day) Scary thing is, the borg warner super T10 came stock in his car. (he's the original owner) In ANY book you look at, the Super T10 isnt listed. You could get it in 75 and 77, but not in 76... But his came stock with one. Quite wierd. Check page 6 of my cardomain for the TA-50th anniversery.

    I'm off the antifreeze and the car is tipsy,
    On the offramp doin bout a hundred 'n fifty!
    71 camaro 427BBC 500+ Hp
    Check out My cardomain page!
  5. Caesar1

    Caesar1 Veteran Member

    Oct 31, 2003
    Canada, Toronto
    If it's a cast iron case "904" tranny your in a good situation. Extremely tough!
    If it has the 3.42 first swap it a 2.52 or similar ratio and your good for BBC torque twisting. LOL [​IMG]
  6. Z28500

    Z28500 Member

    Jan 26, 2017
    This may be a little late year wise, but here it is anyway.
    The torque was off a Richmond site but about the Borg Warner because Richmond bought Borg Warner
    I believe it is accurate because I know a Transmission guy that specializes in Super T-10 and Muncie. He told me the exact same torque rating from memory.

    However, I also think it is way underrated because my Z-28 is approx 535hp and I never had a problem, then again, I don't run slicks, the ultimate in scattering a transmission-or a rear.
    I also don't dump the clutch or speed shift
    Don't have to dump it anyway since after letting it out, floor it-then the tires almost catch fire, second is pretty much the same, Third is a beast and fourth, the tires will break loose shifting at full throttle.
    I do not really care about taking it to the track, just like having a fast car on the street, I remember racing a Z06 back in about 2005 and spanked it without speed shifting.
    Don't think that will work anymore though since they have more hp now. Then again, those guys pay dearly for their hp with cubic-dollars. Take half that money and put it in a drive train, I'll bet any amount of $ the new 650 hp Z06's will get spanked again!!
    A friend of mine has a '65 Chevelle with his new 1000 hp big block in it ---- MONSTER

    Here are the torque rating's
    Part No. Description 1st 2nd 3rd 4th Rev. Torque
    1304000070 2.43 “S” Ratio 2.43 1.61 1.23 1.00 2.35 375 Ft. Lbs.
    1304000069 2.64 “W” Ratio 2.64 1.75 1.34 1.00 2.55 325 Ft. Lbs.
    7021090 2.64 “X” Ratio 2.64 1.60 1.23 1.00 2.55 325 Ft. Lbs.
    1304000072 2.88 “CC” Ratio 2.88 1.91 1.33 1.00 2.78 300 Ft. Lbs.
    1304000062 2.88 “Y” Ratio 2.88 1.74 1.33 1.00 2.78 300 Ft. Lbs.
    1304000071 3.42 “Z” Ratio 3.42 2.28 1.46 1.00 3.51 286 Ft. Lbs

    Here are the Spline Notches and Gear Ratio's

  7. Blown Camaro

    Blown Camaro American by birth, drag racer by choice

    Dec 13, 2009
    Deltona, FL
    SO m
    So my first Camaro in '82 was a '72 RS/SS 4 speed car. I smoked the clutch in it and when I went to replace it I told them it was a Munice M-21 (because that is what SHOULD have been in the car). After two trips to the performance parts store to return incorrect clutch discs due to the splines being incorrect, a sharp parts man said, "Hey! You have a Super T-10 in that thing. No wonder the clutches have been wrong" and he got me setup with what I needed. So somewhere along the way, the trans got swapped. It also had a Hurst Super Competition Plus shifter. I drag raced this car for 7 years and NEVER had a trans issue. It only trapped 99mph at 2,000 foot elevation.
  8. Z28500

    Z28500 Member

    Jan 26, 2017
    Yeah, I destroyed a Stock Hayes clutch about 15 years ago, then bought a Kevlar(one side) and never had any more problems.

    The Hayes disk shredded just by flooring it after engagement too.
    By really romping on it though, it was usually able to handle the torque. Girlfriend and I barely made it home and I spent about $375 on the Kevlar.

    15 years later, the same clutch is in the car, but it wasn't driven for about 5+ years off and on during that time and it never was a daily driver.

    I also swapped out the power steering to manual. Thinking about swapping again for Rack and pinion – just don’t want a power steering pump on the front of the motor. The steering isn’t that bad, women just don’t like like it that much - but I didn’t build the car for a skirt to drive, just to attract ‘em!

    And it does, almost like a puppy dog!
  9. czizza

    czizza Veteran Member

    Jan 8, 2004
    N. Massapequa, NY, USA
    There are several factors ... I have rebuilt tons of them and it all depends on what you want.

    If you are talking bone stock aluminum case with cast gears then the 3.54 1st is about 200lbs and the 2.43 1st would be about 300lbs. All others gears are between those extremes.

    If you are talking cast iron case then add about 50lbs more.
    If you are talking steel mid plate and iron case then add 75lbs; steal in aluminum case is about 25 more.
    If you are talking nodular steel gears (very rare to find or buy) then add another 100 for the 3.54 and 150 for 2.43.

    As you can see if you can get the iron gears, iron case, steel mid plate you can build 375lbs to 500lbs unit.

    Back in the day we could have built even stronger when we had more choices in the metals ... Muncies have more choices because AGR still makes all of the parts.

    If you are planing on a rebuild for power contact my buddy Brian at SK Speed or Jodi Transmission he is part of this site.
  10. Z28500

    Z28500 Member

    Jan 26, 2017
    I have the 2.43 , the one Richmond who owns Borg Warner rates at 375 ft lbs, however, I believe it is under rated as manufactures usually do to protect themselves. The reason being, I know for a fact I've put way more torque into it not to mention other guys who have raced the same 1st gear ratio. And that's with the aluminum case. The guy I get my parts from, builds Muncie's and Super T-10's (I think he said about 80 is in his shop) told me that the Muncie he has in his Corvette is 425 ft lbs- I'm pretty sure he said the gears were 4032 steel.
    Anyway, I just bought a case from him after breaking mine when the drive shaft came off at approx. 135mph without a loop to hold it. (U-bolt came off)
    The 4 bolt tabs broke, bell housing broke, crank cracked at the #3 rod journal, and bent 3 rods. Not to mention bending the 2-1/2 inch duals. The reason I brought that up is that the weak spot on the aluminum case didn't break. When it happened I had just shifted out of 3rd into 4th pulling hard. PULLING HARD
    That motor always pulled hard all the way to 6800 without valve float- (I always wanted to try the 100 dollar bill on the dash trick in 2nd gear-when I yell "NOW"-just try!)
    Felt like running over a cement block. Coasted about a mile before switching off the engine- It just idled until I stopped.
    I just about got everything back together, new pistons, crank. rods, Trans case, bell housing, rebalanced the rotating assembly.

    When and if I replace that Super T-10, it'll be a Jerico.
    There used to be a machine shop north of Tomball TX called Tomball Machine and Motorsports (The owner passed away a few yrs ago)
    We built several engines of mine in that shop-yup, me too.
    Quite a few of the other race engines I helped him build at that shop were circle track, limited modified, street stock and stock car class, yup, bomber too. All of those four classes had at least one 1st place win, some more. Some 2nd and 3rd. The guy was good, name, Duoto. He copied a lot of John Lingenfelter's stuff I remember which made me read his books too. I probably spent over a thousand hours in that shop.
    Who wouldn't?
    I use G&G now
    Built some killer Rochester's in that shop also. MEAN Carb, Mines a ported 830 with a 1/2 inch fuel line all the way from the tank feeding it
    One thing I learned, There's mechanics, and there's engine builders. Two different trades. Mechanics can build engines of course, but usually the engine builders are the masters of that trade-there's exceptions, but they're usually the master builders. Kind of like Dentist and Oral Surgeon.
    I sure lucked out finding an expert on super T-10 and Muncie's

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