Manual Brakes Conversion for Drag Racing

Discussion in 'Competition Camaros' started by 74RAT, Mar 16, 2010.

  1. 74RAT

    74RAT Veteran Member

    3,400
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    Dec 28, 2003
    ft. stockton,tx,usa
    hope the mods don't move this,, it's more of a drag race mod than a brake mod.
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    here's a DIY parts list for a drag race or off road racing power to manual brake conversion for the second gen camaros and probably a few others as well,, using the same basic parts sold by strange and wilwood for about half the cost. but you'll have to fab up your own pedal pushrod and dust boot or order them from the above mentioned. the front and rear fluid chambers are reversed due to the resovior having the larger chamber at the rear. just switch your line routing at the m/c. both m/c outlet holes are inverted 3/16 flare openings.

    there may be other ways to do this,, but this is how i did it. also, i reused the old tubing line nut on the porp valve or brake light switch for the one line that has 1/2x20 threads going in,, and cut the tubing shorter and re-flared with the old line nut going out to the rear brakes from the prop valve.

    still need to tweak the lines arround some to clean up the angles and get the lines a little bit more square to each other,, and rotate the line lock some to "stack" the 3 lines going front to rear,, but this is a rough install at this point. it's holding pressure with no leaks after bleeding. i'm ready for another banzai pass to see if it stops with less foot pressure.

    i made a cardboard template and then an aluminum firewall plate to block off the big power booster hole and cover the air gap. made it from a stop sign which is heat treated. have buddys that work for the city and txdot that get the old signs upon replacement with new ones.

    i used the original pedal pushrod from the back side of the power brake booster assembly. i got it out, cut it up and
    made 3/8x16 threads on each half of the pushrod for a 3/8x16 long nut used in the middle,, with 2 jam nuts to make it adjustable. the rod is just slightly bigger than 3/8" or .375". it measured about .382". then rounded the end to fit into the m/c cup radius. i moved the pedal pushrod up to the upper hole and welded the holding pin in the brake pedal,,,,,, and flipped the brake light switch stop plate arround to work in the bottom hole where the pushrod was originally. it's assumed that you already have a double flaring kit, a tubing bender, and a tubing cutter. the mini IMP brand type tubing cutters are very handy for tight areas.

    1. O'Rielly's auto part# 10-1822 reman 1-1/32" bore chrysler master cylinder no resovoir.

    2. Autozone reservoir part# R23804 can be bought as new m/c complete assembly with resovior for more money.

    3. O'Rielly part# 265301 edlemann adapter fitting. female 3/16" inverted flare (where your brake line tubing connects into it) by 1/2x20x3/16 male inverted flare (where it screws into the m/c. fits rear port of master cylinder and runs to the front brakes.

    4. O'Rielly part# 258303 edlemann adapter fitting. female 3/16" inverted flare (where your brake line tubing connects into it) by 9/16x20x3/16 male inverted flare (where it screws into the m/c. fits front port of master cylinder and runs to the rear brakes.

    5. O'Rielly part# 258430 edlemann adapter fitting. female 1/4" inverted flare (where your brake line will actually connect) i had to use this to get back up to 1/4" due to not finding a single fitting to get from 9/16x20x3/16 in the m/c to get to 1/4 tubing line for the rear brakes,,, which is the front port. stock g.m is 9/16x18 threads on 1/4 tubing line. didn't find any tubing line nuts listed for 9/16x20 or for 1/2x20. if anyone can do this without the extra fitting i used,, it would sure look cleaner, and i'd sure like to know what part number you find. i'll eliminate the extra fitting for a cleaner look and bend up another line.

    6. O'Reilly part# 124320 edlemann adapter male connector. (2 of these) 1/8npt x 3/16 female inverted flare to connect into the line lock. this jegs brand line lock solenoid has the 1/8"npt female on both the inlet and outlet.

    7. O'Rielly part# 120300 3/16 male inverted flare plug. to block off extra port in brakelight switch/prop valve.

    8. brake line tubing. 1 stick of 1/4" diameter line with line nuts in a 36" length.

    9. brake line tubing. 1 stick of 3/16" diameter line with line nuts in a 36" length.

    10. brass 3/16" inverted flare "T" fitting.

    here's links to some adapter fittings.
    http://www.plews-edelmann.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=1859&location_id=2516
    http://www.plews-edelmann.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=1869&location_id=2516

    Have a good understanding of what you're doing, and how it works before modifying your brake system. Test cautiously and carefully. Only thing worse than a car that won't go, is one that won't stop.

    hope it helps,
    andy

    EDITED 12-27-2010 for part update
    Was informed by Turbo70Camaro who found that the 258430 fitting was steel and incorrect. i used brass. He sorted out the correct number for that fitting i listed as 258430. Hats off to Jake.

    Here's the update info he sent me:
    Found out something very interesting today at Autozone. Their AGS brand fitting # BLF-23C is the correct brass fitting that goes into the 9/16"-20 steel fitting.

    The interesting part is on the AGS box they cross reference Edelmann #258430 & Weatherhead #7828 as interchangeable. This is very misleading cause the 2 fittings are totally different.

    AGS : http://www.agscompany.com/automotive...r-fittings/115

    Edelmann: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...keyword=258430
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2010
  2. ZS10

    ZS10 Moderator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

    12,165
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    Jan 18, 2003
    BC, Canada
    Cool, well done Andy! Gonna have to try this .
     
  3. 74RAT

    74RAT Veteran Member

    3,400
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    Dec 28, 2003
    ft. stockton,tx,usa
    thanks tom. plan on some scrap tubing lines!! lol. really,, i only had one that wouldn't seal at one of the flares i made.
    andy
     
  4. KylePBZ

    KylePBZ Veteran Member

    2,285
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    May 5, 2006
    So. IL
    Mine is similar just a little more simplified. But I had to run all new lines anyway.

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  5. sponge003

    sponge003 Veteran Member Gold Member

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    Jan 10, 2009
    Concord, NC
    Kyle are you not running a proportioning valve?

    Should this be a "sticky"?
     
  6. ChevyD

    ChevyD Veteran Member

    337
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    Jun 19, 2009
    Canada
    Definatley sticky this! I'll need it in the near future lol.
     
  7. retorq

    retorq Veteran Member

    4,920
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    May 13, 2003
    Kingman, AZ
    We need a tech section here filled with posts like this ... :D
     
  8. PetieG383

    PetieG383 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Oct 28, 1999
    Wynnewood, Pa USA
    Are you running disc's in the rear too? I already have manual discs in the front, and Wilwood's in the rear. My questions would be

    1. Do I really need to run a 4 wheel disc master cylinder
    2. Do I need to run the combo valve? I have a Prop valve for the rear discs already too.
     
  9. sponge003

    sponge003 Veteran Member Gold Member

    1,511
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    Jan 10, 2009
    Concord, NC
    Good question

    Will this work with drum rear brakes? Disc? Everything?
     
  10. KylePBZ

    KylePBZ Veteran Member

    2,285
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    May 5, 2006
    So. IL
    No proportioning valve. I have Aerospace drag brakes all around. Mopar 1-1/8th" bore master. Stops GREAT. Before I just had the Aerospace fronts with the rest of the factory manual setup, with the prop valve and that worked good also.
     

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