Lynn's 71 Project

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by lhorne81, Oct 30, 2017.

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  1. motown 454

    motown 454 Veteran Member

    415
    4
    Feb 4, 2008
    Ma.
    Your doing a nice job on this, I can't imagine the hours you put into it just to strip paint and clean all these areas.Great job!
    I wish I had an answer for you about the drop offs and other parts. Keep us posted.
     
  2. lhorne81

    lhorne81 Member

    51
    5
    May 26, 2011
    Spring, Texas
    Thanks for the kind words. It has been tough so far. Hopefully I can carve out some time to further clean it this weekend.
     
  3. jsibayan

    jsibayan Member

    94
    2
    Jun 11, 2013
    Salinas, CA
    Hi Lynn,

    I'm liking your thread. I'm in the same situation as far as how and exactly where those extension is attached. I've been watching allot of Double R's (Russ) videos online that helped me through some of the areas that I have done. I'm hoping your journey could help me through this too. Thanks for the thread.
     
  4. lhorne81

    lhorne81 Member

    51
    5
    May 26, 2011
    Spring, Texas
    Thanks jsibayan. I spent some time last Friday looking through Double R's videos. I need to find the exact video that he addresses the area in question. If and when I do find it, I'll let you know. Have a great day.
     
  5. lhorne81

    lhorne81 Member

    51
    5
    May 26, 2011
    Spring, Texas
    I was only able to work for a little while this last Saturday. My main focus was to try to expose spot welds on the inner valence and the trunk pan where it is welded to the frame rails.
    Driver Side Passenger Side
    Driver Side Trunk Pan - Frame Rail.JPG Passenger Side Trunk Pan - Frame Rail.JPG

    While I was there, I figured I would try out my automatic center punch and cheesy spotweld cutter from Harbor Freight.
    Inner Valence - Spot Welds.JPG

    I found the small work lights on sale a Northern Tool for $8, so I scooped one up. It worked well inside the trunk. Quite a few holes.
    Original Trunk Pan - Holes.JPG Driver Side Trunk Pan.JPG Original Trunk Pan.JPG
    As you can see the trunk pan is in pretty bad shape.

    Can anyone speak to removing the braces in between the frame rails that connect the trunk pan to the inner valence? Will these have to be separated from the inner valence when replacing the trunk pan? The inner valence will still be connected to the extensions and the frame rails if I am not mistaken.

    I am very anxious to receive the trunk pan (anticipated delivery this Friday: 16-Feb-2018). I am wondering how wide it will be (from middle of spotwelds on each frame rail or will it be to the actual seam that goes past the frame rail almost to the quarter). I am starting to have my suspicions as to which panel my supplier ordered for me. I'm not sure if it is OER or Dynacorn.

    More updates to follow.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. jsibayan

    jsibayan Member

    94
    2
    Jun 11, 2013
    Salinas, CA
    Hey Lynn,

    In one of your post, you had a patch panel that you're gonna use to do the lower quarters. I purchased a couple for my 73 and noticed that the panels do not have the correct contours and bends. Have you figured out how to do this area?
     
  7. lhorne81

    lhorne81 Member

    51
    5
    May 26, 2011
    Spring, Texas
    jsibayan - Sorry for the late reply. I am not quite at the point of installing my lower quarter patches yet. I have hit a delay in getting my trunk pan from my local parts guy, so I have not started installing these pieces. I can say that the two replacement patches that I do have, both have different contours where they meet the Crossrail / Rear-Inner Valence Extensions. I picked up the drivers side patch from a guy at a swap meet for $10, and the passenger side patch I ordered from my local parts guy (whom I assume ordered it from OER).

    To make a long reply even longer, when I did a very high level mock up last Saturday, it looked as though I was going to have to remove the spotwelds from where the lower quarter meets the Crossrail / Rear-Inner Valence Extensions and cut some of the excess metal from the lower patch panel to make this area hit correctly. I have not removed these spotwelds yet, because I really wanted to see hot the replacement trunk pan lines up.

    Not sure if this picture gives you an idea of what I am going to attempt to recreate. The area to the right of my friends thumb is more than likely going to have to cut out/modified. The area just above his index finger is where I believe I will have to spot weld into the Crossrail / Rear-Inner Valence Extension.
    Lower Quarter Patch Fitment.JPG

    My thought process is this. I would like to leave the Crossrail / Rear-Inner Valence in place if possible. It is connected to the braces that are underneath the trunk pan. I assume that the replacement trunkpan (that I should be getting this weekend), will not include the braces that are between the frame rails. If I can replace the trunk pan without having to fully remove the Crossrail / Rear-Inner Valence Extension (and braces), then I could drill out the spotwelds on the extensions that connect the lower quarters after I weld in the new trunk pan. Once that is done, I plan replace the lower quarters. As a novice attempting to replace this sheet metal, everything appears to be driven around making sure the trunk properly aligned and complete before I move on to lower quarter patches. This is where an assembly manual would help me. I can only assume the process from the factory went: trunkpan to rear frame rail install, drop-offs, full quarter install, Crossrail / Rear-Inner Valence, braces below trunkpan, extensions, then the rear taillight panel.

    Again, hopefully I can get a replacement trunkpan this weekend, and get it installed. I'll make sure to take plenty of pictures to communicate how things are going.
     
  8. jsibayan

    jsibayan Member

    94
    2
    Jun 11, 2013
    Salinas, CA
    Thank you for replying. I purchased my patches on Ebay. I'm trying to finish up on my trunk install and kinda thinking ahead a little bit so I could get an idea of what to do.
    20171113_134431.jpg
    I really didn't pay attention when I began cutting away panels on how the process and what it took to put it back together. I'm very thankful you gave me some valuable insight on the steps to put it back together. I'll be looking forward on some of those pics. I really appreciate it.
     
  9. lhorne81

    lhorne81 Member

    51
    5
    May 26, 2011
    Spring, Texas
    I ended up getting a replacement trunk pan from another local guy who had one in stock for $80. It looks like he had the panel for sometime, just waiting to be sold. It came with a good amount of surface rust, and the coating used for shipping was all but gone. He also took 4' of water during Hurricane Harvey, so that could not have helped either.

    As soon as I got it home (Thursday evening), I sprayed some rust inhibitor on it. You can also see on the back lip where it mates with the taillight panel, the layer of coating is almost completely gone.
    Replacement Pan .JPG Replacement Pan 2.JPG

    This past Friday: Since I had the replacement pan available, this gave me a reference on where and what to cut out. I opted to leave the cross rail / inner valence in place for reference, and only drill out the spot welds connecting to the gas tank braces (underneath my original pan). By doing this, I removed the braces along with the trunk section at the same time.
    Removal 2.JPG Removal 1.JPG
    Removal 3.JPG Removal 4.JPG

    Unfortunately I did not take pictures of the old trunk pan with the braces still on it. I was able to remove the braces from the old pan and start test fitting to the replacement pan. Hopefully I can get some pictures of this in the coming days for reference. This was about all that I was able to do this weekend. I went fishing on Saturday, and had to work on my daily driver on Sunday around family time.

    My plan for this upcoming weekend is this:
    Saturday
    1. Clean and prep the trunk area (clean it and possibly primer it)
    2. Knock the rust off the replacement pan (clean it and possibly primer it)
    3. Prep the braces and weld them to the replacement pan
    Sunday
    4. Make a patch for the image below and weld it in
    5. If time permits, make final adjustments for installing this pan
    Needed Patch.JPG

    This picture was taken standing on the passenger side of the car. The replacement pan only stretches about halfway in between where I cut and the seam of the edge of the trunk. This view is looking down into the trunk pan, where the passenger side quarter would be on your right side. Directly above this image is where you have to imagine the passenger side frame rail.
     
  10. lhorne81

    lhorne81 Member

    51
    5
    May 26, 2011
    Spring, Texas
    This past Saturday I made some good progress in cleaning the remaining areas of the trunk while also fabricating a patch out of some 18ga that I had sitting around. This area was going to have to be replaced using a stand alone patch since the new trunk pan would only partially cover this area.
    Trunk Patch 1.JPG Trunk Patch Prepped.JPG
    I prepped the area after removing the old section, then scribed a patch using the old section as a template.
    Patch Comparison 2.JPG
    After a little trimming here and there, I got it sit exactly how I wanted.
    Patch Installed.JPG
    On Sunday, I spent a good portion of my available time trying to knock off the surface rust on the replacement trunk pan. I also cleaned up the braces that the gas tank straps attach to. From there I tacked them onto the replacement trunk pan, and then started test fitting.
    Brace Mockup.JPG Brace Mockup 1.JPG
    I had to trim some of the edges of the replacement pan to get a good seat in the trunk. For the first stab at it, I'm happy with the way it is looking.
    Test Fit.JPG Test Fit 1.JPG

    My only concern right now is that when I measure the distance between the center of each hole in the braces, they should be 19" apart (according to the old trunk section). Right now mine is a about 1/2" off, but to the naked eye they look straight. Also, where these braces connect to the inner valence, it looks like I might be a little too far forward on my braces which is creating about an inch gap. Worst case scenario I break the tacks and start over.

    Yesterday I opted to spend the rest of my afternoon cleaning the area around the rear window. I didn't want to finalize burning in the trunk section until my buddy is available to take a second look at it. He is serving a my mentor, so I respect his opinion and appreciate a second set of eyes going over my work. Hopefully he comes back into town this upcoming weekend so we can move on.
     

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