Late model GTO seat install on second gen!!!

Discussion in 'Interior Restoration' started by spav350, Aug 3, 2009.

  1. spav350

    spav350 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    601
    0
    Apr 8, 2009
    Corpus Christi, Tx
    Ok, I said I'd do a write up on this, and have finally taken the time to do it.

    Materials that I used.

    5' of 1/4"x1" flat bar.
    4ea- 2"x3/8" bolts with nut, flat, and lock washers
    rubber bushing material about 1/2" thick to slide over 3/8" bolt for cushion.
    4ea-1/4" thick x 3/8" flat washers
    8ea-3/8"-1-1/2" bolts with nut, flat, and lock washers
    4ea-7/16"x1" bolts with flat washers

    I first made a bracket to relocate the mounting bolts from the oringinal postion of 13-1/2" to accomadate the new wider tracks holes of 16-1/2".

    I started with an 18" length of the 1" flatbar. I found the center point of that piece at 9" and measured out from that point to either side 6-3/4" to give me a distanec of 13-1/2" O.C. I then drilled the two holes to 3/8".

    I then measured from the center of one hole out 1-5/8" (O.C. to O.C.) to postion one of the 2"x3/8" bolts to be welded to. I did the same for the other side but measured only 1-3/8". See picture below. This is what it should look like.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I found it easier to remove the track assymbly from the seat to mock up the rest.

    Use the 4 ea. 7/16" bolts and washer to secure the new piece you made to the front seat original mounting holes. Bofore doing so, place two of the 1/4" thick washers under that bracket (one per hole) so that you have no gaps between the flat bar and the floor pan. Do the same for the other side. When mounting it, the side with the bolt that's 1-5/8" away from the hole you drilled goes to the drive shaft tunnelside.

    Place your rubber bushing material on the "new" studs. The whole reason eveything is so thick is because the new electric motors have to clear a hump in the floor pan.

    You can see it in the background of this picture.

    [​IMG]

    Mount your new tracks to the new bracket you made.

    The rear brackets are all the same. Cut 4 pieces of 1" flat bar to 2-3/4" long. 4 more to 1-1/2" long. I don't have an angle finder so I don't know what it is. You can see from the picture roughly what it is. It's best to tack it and them bend it to the exact angle before final welding is done.

    In these photos, you can see how I attached them.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I drilled a 1/2" hole (wiggle room) towards the rear most part of the longer tab so as the bolt that bolts to the track frame doesn't interfere. Once that hole was drilled, i mocked up the rear brackets and marked the floor pan where I was to drill a hole so I could mount these angle brackets to the floor. At the same time I marked the hole to be drilled on the undrilled tab on the angle bracket. If this sounds like jiberish, it's because it's hard to describe this in writing. Reference the pics and you should understand what I'm talking about. Mount these new brackets with the remaining hardware.

    These seats sit a little higher than stockers. Keep this in mind if you're over 6' tall. I'm 6' and fit fine, but any taller and your going to need a sun roof or T-top.:crazy:

    Hope this helps anyone thats thinking of going this. I scored this full set of seats for $400 bucks, so I was deadset on using them.

    [​IMG]



    Next post is the rear seats.
     
  2. spav350

    spav350 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    601
    0
    Apr 8, 2009
    Corpus Christi, Tx
    Rear seat install

    Please keep in mind the backrests do take up alot of the rear window viewing area.

    Materials used were just 1/4" round bar. ABout 4'-5' is plenty. I got mine at Home Depot as it was closer than a steel yard.

    The backrest is a "unit". They are built as one piece with a wire frame. You'll have to cut the wire to make "2" back rests. I just bent the excess behind the backrest to hide it. You have to do the same for the seat bottoms.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This is the what the bottoms of the rear GTO seats look like.

    [​IMG]

    This is what I did to be able to install them utilizing the factory mounting bracket. You'll have to play with it a little to get the depth of the rod right. I'll post some pictures with measurements later.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    The seat backs come with a looped or horseshoe style tab. See pic.

    [​IMG]

    I cut off the loop part and just drilled two holes (4 per seat back) into the package tray for the tabs to slide in to. It worked out perfect and was super easy. All you have left to do is attach it to the stock mounting location at the base of the backrest.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Thats it other than making a new package tray pad to hide the backrest foam.

    Good luck! ;)
     
  3. KJZ28

    KJZ28 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    3,134
    2
    Sep 26, 2004
    Brewsterico, New Fail
  4. Dangerous Drew

    Dangerous Drew Veteran Member

    322
    0
    Feb 11, 1999
    Waco, TX
    Just curious, how much room is there from the top of your drivers' seat to the headliner, With the seat at a normal upright angle?

    I'll be doing this same retrofit, but unfortunately my floor isn't flat (catalytic hump), so it'll be slightly different. The front left floor bolt location is 1" lower than the front right location.

    For the rear, I may try removing a few inches from the bottom of the rear seat in order to drop it down a bit. I'm also going to try to use the rear package tray (and maybe even the 3rd brake light) from the GTO as well. The GTO rear package tray has a hump behind each headrest.

    I'm also contemplating chopping those rear riser tabs off and trying something different there, to try and preserve headroom.
     
  5. spav350

    spav350 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    601
    0
    Apr 8, 2009
    Corpus Christi, Tx
    I don't have a headliner in yet, so I wouldn't be able to give that measurement. But, keep in mind when doing this conversion that the electric motor on the bottom of the seat track sits very low. It wouldn't be a bad idea if you could actually create a valley to accomadate the motor so that the seat tracks are basically in contact with the floor giving you the most headroom possible. You have your work cut out, if you decide to go with the GTO package tray. Feel free to add to this post if you decide to do it.

    You could use a bushing to close the gap. ??????:confused:
     
  6. Rix_74

    Rix_74 New Member

    16
    0
    Jun 9, 2009
    Phoenix, AZ
    My rears mounted a bit lower than yours but they look great!

    I did not do as much work on mine and I am very happy with the way they turned out. The seats are amazing.

    Excellent write up!

    Rick
     
  7. Aceshigh

    Aceshigh Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    26,757
    4
    Apr 9, 2001
    Boondocks
    DUDE YOU ROCK!!!!!

    I think I'm selling my 4th gen interior to my brother for his 4th gen
    and I'm going to do these seats also. BY FAR THE MOST comfortable
    seats I've ever sat in. Front AND rears.

    Finalized pics yet ???
    I'm subscribing to this thread for updates. :)
     
  8. spav350

    spav350 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    601
    0
    Apr 8, 2009
    Corpus Christi, Tx
    I'll take some today. I don't have carpet yet but the seats are in and wired for power. I'll post pics tomorrow morning.
     
  9. thor3228

    thor3228 Veteran Member

    123
    0
    Jan 18, 2006
    Kenosha Wisconsin
    Love those seats,Where would I look to find a set?
     
  10. spav350

    spav350 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    601
    0
    Apr 8, 2009
    Corpus Christi, Tx
    Ebay, pick and pull, junk yard... I got mine from a wrecked one that a friend bought for the drivetrain.
     

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