installing coil springs

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting & Diagnosis' started by Chuck71RS, Sep 6, 2017.

  1. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    990
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    Nov 24, 2012
    Houston, Texas
    The springs are 17 inches tall and need to compress to at least 12 inches. Outside diameter is 5 3/8" and 1/2" thick

    Using the compression tool with arms on the bottom instead of the open fork. Can not align the tightening rod anywhere near parallel with the spring and no where near the center of the coil. The long arm at each end is the closest arm to the coil end. Both pairs of upper and lower are aligned with each other. Tool specs is up to 5 5/8" diameter and 3/4" thick

    Tried two different makers with the open fork at the lower end but the spring at the open end of the fork only contacted near the top of a channel guide point

    Tried strut compressor but not enough clearance on the outside and will not fit on the inside.

    Can not compress using a hydraulic floor jack for the angle between the bottom of the coil and the lower control arm is to great.
     
  2. Coadster32

    Coadster32 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Oct 2, 2013
    Milford,CT
    Sounds like you have the wrong compressor. They make one more specific for older coil springs. The strut compressor one as you found out obviuosly doesn't work.
     
  3. Gary S

    Gary S Administrator Lifetime Gold Member

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    Bismarck, North Dakota
  4. jamieg285

    jamieg285 Veteran Member

    1,229
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    Jul 15, 2004
    Luton, England
    I use a SnapOn tool (sorry don't know the part number), but it's a threaded rod with a block with two hooks screwed on one end and a loose fork that locates on heavy washers at the top end of the tool.

    I got best results by discarding the fork and inverting the tool. Unscrew and remove the block with the arms, then feed the threaded rod down through the top shock mount. It's a bit fiddly, but now get the hooks in from the bottom and hooked into the spring as you attach it to the threaded rod.

    I used an impact driver and was able to whip it up in seconds. Manual wratchet will take a bit longer.

    Don't forget a bit of safety chain to hold the spring to frame - just in case.
     
  5. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    990
    24
    Nov 24, 2012
    Houston, Texas
    Hi Gary: The present compressor is the exact one (W80554) you used. Even bought it at OReilly. How the heck did you position the arms on the coil so the tightening rod was parallel with the spring and in the center? My is so far off center that the spring starts bending.
     
  6. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    990
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    Nov 24, 2012
    Houston, Texas
    Hi Jamie: I tried as you described inserting the tightening bolt (12" long) through the shock tower then putting the arm assembly with the threaded end on the end of the rod. Problem though is the arm assembly is way off-center and will not pull up without bending the spring
     
  7. 74BIBELOT

    74BIBELOT Veteran Member

    IMG_6849.PNG IMG_6850.PNG Go to AZ and rent(free) this tool #27036.
     
  8. BigBlock73

    BigBlock73 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    1,814
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    Jul 10, 2002
    Accord,New York
    I installed the ball joints to spindle and left the lower control arm disconnected from the frame.
    Installed spring and chained it for safety.
    Floor jack under control arm and raised the arm into the frame.

    Worked well for me
     
    GoldenOne7710 likes this.
  9. jamieg285

    jamieg285 Veteran Member

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    Jul 15, 2004
    Luton, England
    The spring will bend a bit and that's fine. In fact, if you are able to position the arms so that the bottom of the spring bends in towards the frame as you compress it, it helps when positioning it in the lower a-arm.
     

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