High idle in park, stalls in drive!!!

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting & Diagnosis' started by bigblock665, May 18, 2010.

  1. Hi, had that problem too.
    Meaning that it drives and idles fine, but if driven and then gear into park the rpms shoot up.

    My problem were a neglected distributer, hanging / sticking weights with worn bushings.

    First of the most important - get a timing light.
    but this would mean solve your timing mark issue. Want a quick solution?
    Use number 6 - the opposite of cyl 1. hook your timing light to it, and it should read correct.
    This test can also be used to test for distributor wear.
    You can use any cylinder to set your timing - cause they all fire at the same moment in cycle.

    About the hard start when hot. If your timing is too advanced, the engines kicks back at the starter - this really hurts (in sound)
    But if you have a heat soak issue - the starter will crank slowly / hardly at all.

    Fuel filter: during idle - even the slightest flow of fuel is enough - as long as your bowls stay full.
    if you have problems at sustained WOT - start replacing fuel hoses / lines from tank to pump. pin size holes are a nightmare for mechanical pumps.

    @nicks78camaro
    these could be two problems. the first would be too much fuel, the other too less fuel (less is the opposite gramatically in this case, right?)

    Then there are a lot of different thing HOW the car can stall - and these would lead to the problem.
     
  2. nicks78camaro

    nicks78camaro Veteran Member

    848
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    Apr 3, 2010
    Pittsburgh
    It's a 305 with a Holley 600, and it's timed right and everything. I don't think it's too much fuel for the 305
     
  3. How do you know it timed right?
    what is everything?
    what leads to the opinion that it is not too much fuel?

    You can always create your own thread and describe your problem in detail :)

    A video would be nice, were we can see, hear and "feel" what happens.
     
  4. nicks78camaro

    nicks78camaro Veteran Member

    848
    0
    Apr 3, 2010
    Pittsburgh
    I know it is timed right because I timed it.
    It is not too much fuel because people put Holley 600s on 305s all the time with seemingly no problems.

    I just tore the whole car apart, so it doesnt run now. Just curious if there is a quick answer as to why it does that. Oh well
     
  5. Ok if you say so :crazy: ;)

    Does the car stall only when driving, or even when in Park / Neutral and your just rev it?

    Is your Holley Vac secondaries or a DP?

    at what load or Throttle angle / rpm / gear does the stalling take place, or begins at?


    Ohh and a quick answer would be - cause its misadjusted :)
     
  6. bigblock665

    bigblock665 Veteran Member

    1,053
    0
    Apr 7, 2009
    NY
    I shook my rotor inside my dizzy and it has some play in it... Are they supposed to have play? Will this cause a missfire?
     
  7. nicks78camaro

    nicks78camaro Veteran Member

    848
    0
    Apr 3, 2010
    Pittsburgh
    Mine does too! I was wondering if that is normal...it's a cheap $50 China one from Carlisle
     
  8. some play is ok.

    If you have the distributor out. you can move the shaft (were the rotor mounts to) up and down.
    From
    The GM HEI Distributor by Rick Draganowski

    I think taking this as a guideline is ok.

    If you want to know a little bit more about distributors and how they look taken apart - I have a thread with a bunch of pics. And questions about the correct movement of the weights - that lead to my erratic timing and hence stalling.
     
  9. nicks78camaro

    nicks78camaro Veteran Member

    848
    0
    Apr 3, 2010
    Pittsburgh
    :cool: Wow thanks falloutboy! Next time my distributor is out I will check for clearances!
     
  10. bigblock665

    bigblock665 Veteran Member

    1,053
    0
    Apr 7, 2009
    NY
    I have a little up and down play but I also have some side to side play.. Could a side to side play cause misfire?
     

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