heater

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting & Diagnosis' started by whining 73, Dec 3, 2002.

  1. whining 73

    whining 73 Veteran Member

    168
    0
    Sep 21, 2002
    arlington,tx
    got a question for you guys. my camaro was an a/c car but i pulled the a/c box out and put in a heater box. when i have the heater hoses hooked up the heat stays on all the time. its ok in the winter but when it is 100 degrees in the summer it is a little too warm for the heater. i have been bypassing the heater core in the summer but i'm tired of swapping the hoses back and forth.i just got a manual shut off valve that i want to splice into one of the heater hoses but i'm not sure which one to splice into. do i need to use the one from the water pump to the core or the one from the core to the intake? also if i do this will it cause any cooling problems? i don't see how the water will circulate through the motor if it is blocked of between the water pump and the intake. sorry for the long post but i had to make sure i didn't forget details. thanks for any help ya'll can pass along.
     
  2. indyzmike

    indyzmike Veteran Member

    542
    1
    Mar 21, 2002
    Milwaukee, Wi
    You can put a shutoff valve in the hose from the intake manifold to the heater core. My reason is that this is where the coolant comes out of the engine to the core. It is better than in the return. This will not affect engine cooling. Mike
     
  3. calflan

    calflan Veteran Member

    394
    0
    Sep 13, 2001
    Marana, Az USA
    I believe the problem is your blower fan is on all the time. This is normal. When the heater or AC is selected off the fan still blows at a very low rate, lower than 'LOW' with the heat 'ON'. I was toying with the same idea of cutting off the warm air for warm months. I believe best idea would be to tie into the blower power or ground wire with a manual switch to select the blower 'OFF' when the heater is 'OFF'. You can simply cut the ground or power feed to the fan, on the right side of the engine compartment and run wire to the dash area and mount a switch somewhere (hidden if need be). Then run another wire back and you have the option of opening the power or ground circuit to take power from the blower when you don't want it.

    Water will still be circulating through the heater core for the required coolant system, but the core will not be blowing warm air for cooling of the core, into the car ducting.
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    '77 Sport Coupe
    http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=681680&uid=502588&members=1

    [This message has been edited by calflan (edited December 04, 2002).]
     
  4. 76L88

    76L88 Veteran Member

    422
    0
    Aug 28, 2002
    Aberdeen, SD
    I don't believe it matters where you block it off. The water going to the core is in addition from the water going through the block, not reliant on it. If you know about electricity, they're basically like voltage going in "parallel." i.e. kinda like if the heater core ever plugged up the engine wouldn't just overheat.

    I have run cars with a plug in the water pump and intake holes that normally go to the heater core, without any trouble. Also, plugging off one side like I just said for half the year would be a more reliable method than putting in a valve. Less connections = less potential leaks.

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    76 Coupe, now engineless.
    86 Z28

    "If it aint rusty, it will be"
     

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