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Discussion in 'Competition Camaros' started by LeKid, Dec 9, 2011.
Just take them completely off and use some plastic to stay aerodynamic
Good thread by the way
good info on this thread.
I have always known how heavy these doors were and also on alot of G body cars too and their ability to wear out door pins,hinges,and latches.
I recently got a chance to cut out the frt door openings on a 2004 Malibu for the door handles and outside sheet metal surrounds.I plan on putting these door handles on my 80 Camaro and since these doors are so heavy I will be placing the doors on a diet to help keep these door handles and all working to their best for a long time.
Haven't been on the board for a while and just found this thread.
I removed the door beams from mine a while back and had a completely bare door(aside from primer) weight of 45#. I'm planning to take more weight from behind the door panel area, bottom ledge and hinge area in form of drilling and/or hole punches.
Is it safe to assume the 62# new door weight is with hinges & latching mechanism?
Just got done doing the doors on mine, Im actually still working on em. Im building the frames for the lexan windows and welding in the tabs for the mounts. here are the steps I took if it helps .
1, take door off and remove all pieces that can be on the outside.
2, cut perimiter of inner skin with slitter wheel leaving 2 inch or so edge to put aluminum skin on after gutting
3, when you cut the inner skin all the regulat or stuff and railing will come out I just keep cutting it . I had no plan to save it so I didnt un screw any of it. If you wanna keep it unscrew it. mine were roached out.
4 cut top across toward outer skin on both ends and inner felt support, the one that is rubber glueed to the outer door skin.
, when I go to peel it off of the door skin I use a rose clipper to cut those rubber globs so I dont bend the door skin. it works.
5, slitter wheel to cut out the inner bar, cut it in half first and free front hte upper support. then both sides trick, metabo sells 6 inch slitter wheels that work fantastic on 4.5 ers. just keep an eye on yer knucks . this will get you all the way through crash bar no prob, and is alot less pain in the ass than drilling spot welds.
6, ok I used light guage steel for the top brace had it broke 4" x 4" x 4' I think it was 16 or 18 guage really ligth. this fits perfectly to rebuild the top section. square it. tack it trim and shape the ends.
7, option, I had some light guage stuff like they use on garage door openers, I dont know what its called, but it was like half inch stuff. I ran one piece down the center from top to bottom to suport the aluminum skin. and pop riveted it in . then skinned it.
re installed door and shaped window frame and welded that in.
as soon as I figure out how to load pics Ill put em on.
You can keep the original glass and tracks in,and replace the regulator with one from a late model Ford Aerostar van. They use an all aluminum cable type regulator to pull the window up and down. You can swiss cheese the doors and hinges too.
Here are some of the tricks that I found on my old SRD built 70 Camaro pro stocker.
Gas pedal bracket!!!
Door hinges. With aluminum bolts too! You can also see a little bit of the aluminum panel that closes over the removed tulip panel.
These doors were acid dipped until they were paper thin AND drilled full of holes too. They had to have factory glass and interior panels back then according to the rules.
Rack and pinion steering
The front subframe ends at the engine cradle.
The inner cowl box(wiper box) was removed when the middle of the firewall was set back.
Here are some other tricks.
ALL the inner structure of the roof and quarters are gone. The headliner is just glued in
All of the inner cowl is removed. The steering column is mounted to the cross bar for the roll cage,and the master cylinder just bolts to the firewall.
Remove the entire rear package tray and divider panel and close it in with aluminum. even if you want to put the stock back seat in,you can just tie strap it to the aluminum so that it doesnt fall out.
cut out the entire trunk jam area,and trunk hinges and mount the trunk lid on Dzus fasteners.
Cut out the entire area under the rear filler panel,and weld the filler panel to the quarters to keep them from getting wobbly.
Cut out the inner kick panel area structure,and cut the tulip panels off the sides of the firewall. You onbly need to close the tulip panels in with aluminum on the outside.
The list goes on and on. Street racers have been building 2500# Cadillac Coupe D'Villes like this for decades.
Years ago I had fiberglass doors with lexan windows on my Firebird. I used self tapping screws to hold the window to a brace that screwed to the inner door structure(you would normall need rivets anyway) and to hold the support bracing to the inside of the door. I rivet 2 thick strips of aluminum about 5x2" to the inner door so that the self tap screws would have something to screw into. I would keep a screw gun with me when I was cruising to the local street race spots. I would remove the driver's side window before I left the shop and keep it and the screw gun in the trunk. I also had removeable pins in the stock hinges to make the doors removeable for when I drove it into my enclosed trailer since I couldnt get out of it with the lexan windows in place. I also had a full fiberglass front end on it. I eventually added hood hinges,bolt on hood and fiberglass inner fenderwells to the glass front end. It all looked heavy,but it wasnt.
Back in the "gangsta street racer" days. The car weighed 2875# with my 200# azz sitting in it. The money racers called it "the potato chip"
It took a bit of work to get all the fiberglass panels lined up this well.
And I wondered why all the big dogs were afraid of my little iron headed small block "street car". If you look closly,you can see how I used stick on chrome wheel well molding around the top of the doors and as window drip rails,all to make the car look less like a tin can.
yeah me too please
In the proces of gutting the doors. One done, one almost. Cheese sawed one inner door panel and window mechanism. Moving on the the door hinges, but got inspired by the post above. Have replacement parts to frashen them up so will be cutting the pin anyway.
Q: does anyone know a place where I can order removable pins that fit stock hinges?
great post thanks!!!
I have only removed the crash bars from my doors,which were 17.5# each. As for windows,years ago I had fiberglass doors and lexan windows on my cad,and I had the windows mounted so that I could remove them with the framework by taking out about 6 self tapping screws for street driving. I now have steel doors and was thinking about doing something similar,only this time using a mix of slide in tabs and just 2 or 3 Dzus fasteners on the interior of the door. I know that it will mean an "all or nothing" deal with having the windows open,but I could never cruise a 9 second big block on the street with the windows up.