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Discussion in 'Troubleshooting & Diagnosis' started by Tphil413, Apr 16, 2008.
If you have a straight line fitting coming out of the carb with a drop base air cleaner, the bottom base could've cut the fuel line. I had that happen to me and was lucky enough that I caught it before the fire got out of hand. I put the banjo fitting on it and never had an issue after that.
That's also a good idea for someone to check for leaks while the engine is turned over.
I pulled the dash then did the following:
1) Installed studs in the 3 spot that the factory left out (these are the same spots when the dash was warping
2) Bought a piece of preformed steel (with holes) and clamped the the dash to it to straighten while I heated with a heat gun. Only took about 25 minutes to massage the warp out and let it cool overnight clamped
3) Installed clips in the 3 new spots and bolted in place
Lessons learned: Install studs with a large head or washer to avoid pulling the stud through the hole when you clamp it and make sure you install the right side clips on the install. There are two sizes long and short - it make not be immediately obvious which one is the correct clip to use. If you put the dash in place first with our the studs you can see which one will work best.
Results: the warp is gone, all I have is some mild wavyness since I had to install the studs twice (see lessons learned above). I have my toolbox on it right now to press out these last few waves.
Actually I have a straight line (no banjo fitting), with a braided line. Best I can figure over time the fuel line just worked itself loose. I never had a leak in the past and frankly had not checked the connection tightness for some time. I think this is the most likely culprit because when I look at the see thru fuel filter it looks like the line is clear (no gas). In the past it was always about 2/3 full with gas - looks like it just drained out.
The reason I was pondering other possible causes is because with an airgap mainfold I expected the fuel to all end up under the carb and to burn on both sides of the carb. Instead the fuel appears to have ended up between the manifold and valve cover at the rear of the engine and on the passenger side. I could see it clearly through the opening in the cowl induction hood through the windshield.
That led me to think maybe I flooded it (very likely) and the fuel overflowed to the manifold. Problem is that the aircleaner was on the carb and it didn't burn (or really get scorched much). So back to me question, is it possible that the carb flooded and then leaked at the back onto the manifold?
Don't plan to restart it until I know what happened.
I had a VW go up in smoke just like that...fuel line in close proximity to the dizzy leaked. Car was gone in a matter of minutes....and almost took the house with it. The car was partially under the carport.
From where you are describing I would think it came directly from the fuel input on the carb.
Yep, mine was in the garage as well - right under the family bedrooms. It could have gotten really ugly fast if I didn't get the extinguisher on it right away. Thank God it all worked out!
Yeah, I guess I just tighten everything up and try cranking it without the distributor hooked up to see if I have any other leaks. Last time I didn't even have the hood open or the air cleaner off, so it was really hard to see exactly what was happening.
Lastest update...think I found the culprit in the little campfire I found under the hood lasy month. Looks like the see-thru fuel filter sprung a leak and doused my manifold with gas. I assume something arc'd and set the whole thing ablaze. Changed out the filter and snugged everything down, no leaks. Replaced the singed choke wires and did about 15 hours of engine compartment cleaning (boy that entinguisher powder goes everywhere).
Thought I was good to go until I tried to restart it yesterday. It wouldn't start, but the starter was turning. Investigated further and I had no spark at the plugs, so i checked the ignition wires and they look somewhat melted. At first I didn't notice since the melted spot is down near the back of the block about a foot or two from the starter selenoid and it was wrapped with lots of black tape. It's weird though, I have no accessories with the key on (radio, wipers), but I do have lights, ligher, tach, starter and blower motor. I assume I have a fried engine harness.
So hears my questions - having only done the most basic of wiring over the years, how hard is it to replace the engine harness from the starter to the firewall? Can I buy a wiring kit that won't require that I touch anything inside the car? Is it basically plug and play? Any recommendations where to find the best (affordable, but quality) kit? Do these kits come with easy to follow color coding and wiring graphs? I assume I can just trace the existing wires and make the connections one at a time? How likely that I will start fire #2?
first thing is to check the fuseable link that comes off the starter... it's probably the culprit