Deer slayer 81

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by 80sz, Oct 14, 2016.

  1. 80sz

    80sz Veteran Member

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    Feb 2, 2014
    Buffalo,n.y.
    image.jpg I've seen them at harbor freight and they are nice. Here's the dent in rocker I need to fix also. I managed to get stuck on a railroad tie in a drive way once. It was dark out and I may of ben really thirsty that nite. I did mess with fender some more. I need a new door. Ben looking for a old one but prices have ben up there . Parts store wants 500.00 for a original ,650.00 for a new shell. I'm going to keep looking . I think it's just too expensive . I had door skin put on last paint job and feel it's why I can't get it lined up. You can't really see in pictures but it's all dented up from his beating on it.
     
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  2. hoppin5478

    hoppin5478 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Jul 20, 2015
    Tucson, AZ
    With the paint as long as your primer/sealer is compatible with the base coat you'll be fine there. I've shot a bunch of different brands of base/clear from Duponts Chroma line to H of K, to restoration shop depending on my budget when doing the paint job and they were all very easy to lay. The only issue I have run in to on the base is incompatible paints when I didn't seal one of my projects and the paints started to eat in to each other. Clearcoat is a different story but as long as you have enough clear on it you can color sand and buff out most flaws. On a couple sections of my Camaro I had issues with orange peel despite laying the clear to the point of running it in a a couple spots but it came right out with the color sand (I think the temperature got too hot). The better you get at laying clear the less work it takes to color sand. I've sprayed all the cars outside (wish I had a big enough indoor spot) and used HVLP guns for quite some time. Before HVLP the high pressure guns made a mess and pissed the neighbors off because it put so much paint in the air, now very little paint gets wasted. I would challenge my paint jobs with the best of them. There are better but mine are competitive. If you do decide to do it yourself you may want to check out SPI clear. I used it this last time around and been very happy with it. It's cost effective, color sands and sprays pretty easily and leaves a very deep gloss after a good cut and buff.
     
  3. 80sz

    80sz Veteran Member

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    Feb 2, 2014
    Buffalo,n.y.
    Thanks for the info. I have a advance auto right up the street that mixes paint. I was up there this morning and he said he will lead me thru every step and has everything I need. I got few things left to do like the rocker and find a door And give me some time to think about it.
     
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  4. Bandit723

    Bandit723 Veteran Member

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    Oct 1, 2016
    Waupaca WI
    I do differ with the primer sealer Scenario while most of the time the scuff and and seal and shoot works the rattle can primer stuff is a cheap or different formula and does not play well with at least the PPG paints or bond well with other paint systems.

    In my opinion the paint bonding or chemical interaction is crucial for a good paint job.
     
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  5. 80sz

    80sz Veteran Member

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    Feb 2, 2014
    Buffalo,n.y.
    Thx bandit. I will remove all the rattle can primer if I do paint it. I put that on to stop any flash rust in the elements outside in garage. Its on really thin and just enuf to cover . The green paint is 3m etching primer I had left over from doing the fire wall. It works well.
     
  6. 80sz

    80sz Veteran Member

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    Feb 2, 2014
    Buffalo,n.y.
    I went you tube binge on the zed sled with Kevin Tetz . I learned a lot. The poly surfacer and short strand fiberglass fillers are my friend. With my new knowledge I can get closer to final paint. Looks like I'm adding to my tools.
     
  7. 80sz

    80sz Veteran Member

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    Feb 2, 2014
    Buffalo,n.y.
    IMG_4082.JPG New parts!!! Got flywheel and bolts clutch fork ball stud and bolts for pressure plate and the reverse light switch. Also recieved the new dash I got from a member. Yea baby! Flywheel is heavy, 29.6 pounds.
     
  8. 80sz

    80sz Veteran Member

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    Feb 2, 2014
    Buffalo,n.y.
    image.jpg Added to the new stuff today. Got the front spoilers! They are slightly different in the way they mount to body but think it will be a improvement. No holes to attach the inside lip to fender. Have to drill them out,no biggie but wish they we're pre drilled .
     

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  9. 80sz

    80sz Veteran Member

    2,155
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    Feb 2, 2014
    Buffalo,n.y.
    IMG_4121.JPG Did some painting. Pretty much to test myself but tuned out decent. I bought a 25.00 hvlp gravity feed gun from pep boys. It worked okay. Could only get about a 4" fan spray out of it and it came out little glopy . Think it could if ben reduced more because it didnt spray a fine mist. I also didnt strain the paint before I put in gun. I didnt think it was as dirty as it was as there is some debris in it. Over all it laid down nice got some clear on it and I did give a quick sand and buff just to get a feel. Still want a pro to paint my car and not my amateur butt. Its the best option unless i come up with some extra cash for a booth, good gun and a new compressor, plus a good air dryer and these things arent cheap.
     
  10. Bandit723

    Bandit723 Veteran Member

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    Oct 1, 2016
    Waupaca WI
    Glad you are giving this a go. IMO cheap guns don't spray well have been thru that before. One cost savings strategy maybe to find a shop you can work with and pick out the stuff you can do yourself like laying down epoxy primer and a sandable primer that is compatible with the paint you will be using. The painter or body shop will still have to block sand or scuff even if you were going for a paint job over the existing paint.

    And no the proper equipment is not cheap.
     

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