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Discussion in 'Body Restoration' started by RePhil, May 28, 2010.
Thanks for the info.
LOOKING for thread on replacing Hinge Pins, Bushings
Which mfg of pins, which vendor to buy from
Retain pins with locktite ???
I replaced hinge pins/bushings with CHQ kit purchased from Joey Gray.
I purchased 3rd Gen detent roller and pin as show earlier THIS thread.
Anybody have additional comments for R&R of detent pin/roller
other than heat with torch and smack with hammer
I cut/broke the old roller off, then put the pin in the vise, heated the roller pin boss up good with a torch, and hit the roller pin boss with a BFH using a drift (spare 1/2" drive 6" extension) because you can't get a hammer in there. Be sure to heat it well. The pin will come out slowly so you can grab the hinge body and not fling it across the garage.
Installation was more challenging. After putting some grease on the pin - both the splines and where the roller rests, I tried to get it home using my biggest c-clamp (what RePhil used). I could only get the pin in a little before the whole thing would pop out of the c-clamp, or it would be too hard to turn even if it stayed in - even using a small pipe as a cheater. I put the whole thing in my vise - fortunately, the c-clamp got the pin in just far enough for the roller shaft/hinge body+roller+pin to fit into the mouth of the vise. I got the pin home, but it was a bear. My vise is not small, though it is very old and cheap, but I swore something was going to break - either the vise or the roller pin boss. I had to use a floor jack handle as a cheater, and even then needed all my strength. Very nerve wracking. Especially when it came to getting the squeeze on the roller just tight enough to allow it to still spin stiffly. Tricky to get the piece set in there just right too, whether vise or c-clamp, given the offset of the roller pin boss from the axis of the roller shaft, which is what you need to be pressing on - not the hinge body. I don't think removing the roller shaft from the hinge body would make it that much easier. I'm on the fence about whether it would have been just as good to go with the YearOne kit, even with the extra $20. Drilling and tapping the roller boss would also be nerve wracking, of course.
A few notes. As you can see from RePhil's pic of the roller in profile, the plastic bushing stands proud on one side, and shallow on the other. I installed mine as oriented in RePhil's pic - the proud side goes against the hinge, the shallow side takes the head of the pin (otherwise the roller could be frozen against the boss). Also, after reassembling the hinge including spring, I had to force the arm down a bit to clear the raised edge of the roller - the arm was riding on that raised edge, and I had to pop it down into the roller's channel.
My build thread has pics of finished hinges (post 69) and doors are going on soon.
Thanks to RePhil for figuring this out and posting it. It was a fun challenge!