Changing motor mounts

Discussion in 'Tips 'n' Tricks Topic' started by 79silverz28, Mar 14, 2006.

  1. 79silverz28

    79silverz28 Veteran Member

    726
    0
    Jan 6, 2006
    Texas
    I know this was in a thread elsewhere, I just thought it would be useful in this section.

    Changin motor mounts looks impossible in a second gen car. If you look in the shop manual, it has you removing the lower suspension. Well, after looking through some threads, and just changing them myself, I can tell you it is possible to do it without removing the suspension, but you do need to know a few tricks.

    First, the tool that will help get 2/3s of the bolts out is a 9/16" distributor wrench. It looks like a really long wrench that has been bent in two places. This threads up between the suspension to most of the bolts. However, I did discover a few other little things to make this bettter.

    You want to turn the steering wheel all the way in the direction of the side that you are working on. So, if you are working on the drivers side motor mount, turn the wheel all the way to the drivers side. This opens up a lot more room to work with.

    Last, you want a swivel socket and at least 14" of extension on a 3/8" wrench. This will then let you snake up to the hardest to reach bolt to get it out.

    With both of those tools, and a buddy to be turning the other side of the bolt, you can change the motor mounts in a couple of hours. Just go slow, have a flashlight or really well lit area, and you can do it. It took me about an hour to change the first side, and a half hour to change the other side once I understood how the wrenches and wheel had to be.

    I hope this helps.
     
  2. Aceshigh

    Aceshigh Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    26,757
    1
    Apr 9, 2001
    Boondocks
    Thanks, that info will come in handy to give my mechanic in 2 weeks
    when I drop off my car and my new motor. :)
     
  3. TooLateVTEC

    TooLateVTEC Veteran Member

    1,451
    0
    Dec 5, 2005
    Fredericksburg,Va
    Thats exactly how I changed mine...except when I did mine I had to figure it out by myself,I wasnt even registered to this site yet.

    Took me a good 3 hours to do mine all by myself,but there wasnt an engine in the car thank god.
     
  4. HurtHorseZ28

    HurtHorseZ28 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    I knew about #1 and #3. Never heard of #2, but I'll keep that in mind if I ever do them again.:bowtie:
     
  5. theflash

    theflash Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    11,012
    13
    Feb 27, 2004
    Podunk, CT
    Thanks for the tip, good chance I will be doing this soon myself.
     
  6. Z28TERRY

    Z28TERRY Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    345
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    Dec 11, 2005
    Harrison, AR
    Just did that job. We cut the old bolts off then fed the new bolts up from the bottom with a good magnet. Put nuts and lockwashers on. Used an impact on the nuts. By cocking the impact at an angle the bolt heads grabbed underneath- we didn't have to use a wrench on them. Under 30 minutes to do the job. Having the engine out helped.
     
  7. 1981coupe400ci

    1981coupe400ci Veteran Member

    6,911
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    Dec 22, 2002
    Oregon,IL
    i used extensions and swivels and threaded them up through everyhting... didnt take too long with one person turning the bolts uptop and another wiht the swivels and extensions down below...
     
  8. Psychohamster

    Psychohamster Veteran Member

    9,058
    0
    Oct 22, 2001
    Redwood City, CA. USA
    The most frustrating part about this is getting the nut up inside the frame and starting the first few threads on the bolt.
    When reassembling, before pushing the bolt through the hole and hoping you get the nut on it and square enough to start the threads (and after swearing up a storm when the bolt drops down into hardware hell) try this:
    Get a 4 foot piece of standard automotive wire ( I actually used bailing wire) and tie a washer on the top end). Feed the wire down the bolthole until you can grab it from under the car and pull it until the washer stops it from going in any further. Get a 2 foot piece of hose big enough to just push the bolt into it and wiretie or hose clamp it snug so it sticks out a tad. Cut a small washer shaped piece of thin double stick tape and apply it to the tad of exposed nut. Feed the wire through the nut and out the other end of the hose. While pulling the wire lightly, push the hose up into the frame until the nut snakes into place and the tape help holds it in possition. Keep the hose in place and pull the washer and wire guide out. Insert the bolt and it should thread right in. Give the hose a little tug and it'll pop off the nut.
     
  9. Psychohamster

    Psychohamster Veteran Member

    9,058
    0
    Oct 22, 2001
    Redwood City, CA. USA
    Personally, my problem with swivels is they are usually either too loose and flop in every direction but the one you need or the angle is too tight and the slightest extension twist messes up the nut/bolt alignment.


    and if you get really lazy or frustrated you can just weld the friggin mounts in.
     
  10. hhott71

    hhott71 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    14,375
    1
    Mar 30, 2001
    Joplin Mo. 64801
    works too
     

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