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Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by thesalboy, Jun 3, 2017.
Any pics of quarter panel removal.
I’m at that stage of my conversion and was wondering how you attacked this.
I was tearing into the car so hard then I don't have many pics, but I found one.
Here's two good articles with good pics:
Handy search tip: use Google to search this site, and head straight for the image results, like: "quarter panel" site:nastyz28.com
Cut around the perimeter to reveal the substructure, but leave the spot welded portion intact. I used a cutting disc on a grinder. Cut shallow, especially over the wheel arches - the inner wheelhouse is right there (I cut it and had to weld it up).
Prepare yourself for drilling a BUNCH of spot welds. It is ridiculously tedious, hard work. I was happy enough with my Blair 11096. Mark spots with a marker. Start each one using a regular 1/8" bit to give the spot cutter pilot bit something to center on (don't drill all the way through - just drill a starter divet). Light pressure on the spot cutter at first until it starts cutting, then you can apply pressure - otherwise it will just walk on you. A small grinding wheel works well too, especially where there's multiple spots or one big depressed monster.
I used a hammer and seam splitters. An air chisel seemed too aggressive to me and risked damaging the substructure. Sometimes you cut the spot perfectly with the cutter, but that's fairly rare. Don't try to break a spot - break the metal away from around the spot, and grind the spot later. The seam splitters have sharp edges to cut the surrounding metal away from the spot.
I've seen several different approaches to where the quarter meets the roof. I didn't want to drill through the roof, and noticed that there are access holes behind the seam that are just big enough to get a welder in there. After melting the lead out, I cut the quarter right up to the roof, and then ground the remnants of the quarter away from the inside of the roof - I mounted a grinding disc upside down on the grinder and slowly wore away the quarter until only the roof remained. I still intend to and need to stitch weld the outside of the seams, which the factory did tho only in a few places.
Especially if you're going as far as I did, buy a short brimmed bump cap. Google it. It saved my scalp and skull many times.
Pleased with the CR-3000 rotisserie (except leaf spring kit included extensions only for one side, so I had to fab the other). I can spin the car with the garage door open, so I should be able to spin it while spraying - essential for shooting the interior all at once - my booth just clears the door. Tack welds are good insurance (there are two more on top of each corner's T). Thanks to perkalator - his build thread has helped me a lot.
Thanks! Things have slowed because work has done anything but. But then without that, I could not do this.
Had time and barely enough energy to host our usual Easter feast and realized (as I was passing out) that nearly everything I love in the world was sitting right there in front of me (wife, cats, and friends are just off to the right).
What mask is that you are using? I'm planning on doing some painting in my garage with a similar paint 'booth' and after my experience doing the bumper cover for my wife's daily driver, I need a better mask than the one I currently have.
BTW, I am following your progress with with great interest!! I'm amazed at the work you've done and am looking forward to seeing more!
Thanks for the props, and for giving me a reason to take a minute to do something other than work on a weekend.
Allegro Safety Full Mask Supplied Air Respirator System-One Man (ALL9200-01)
This was the cheapest seller at the time, and provided good service: https://www.envirosafetyproducts.co...esh-air-respirator-fullface-mask-one-man.html
Get some clear film. I have to get a replacement lens from paint drips and sandblasting abrasion.
OK, work is not the only thing getting in the way. Long Beach Grand Prix weekend is too important!