Camaro RS LS1 Build Thread

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by thesalboy, Jun 3, 2017.

  1. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

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    Mar 25, 2017
    Los Angeles, CA
    Haggling with GoDaddy so pics may disappear for a few days.

    Edit: back online
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2018
  2. rydeer

    rydeer Veteran Member

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    Feb 28, 2012
    south NJ
    I Love My Camaro, But Not that much. That is a lot of work. Your doing a great job. How much will You Insure it for? LOL
     
  3. 1981LT1

    1981LT1 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Dec 15, 2004
    San Antonio, Tx, USA
    Nice work. I'm doing some of the same stuff to mine. Thankfully I didn't have to do as much rear sheetmetal as you. I too found that AMD is good but definitely not great. I bought both doors from Classic Camaro and the fender from AMD and both were way off! You can see my fitment issues under Project Code Name: Never Satisfied. I guess it's expected when using aftermarket parts. Thankfully I'm not afraid of cutting and fixing new parts.
     
  4. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

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    Mar 25, 2017
    Los Angeles, CA
    I was smart. I started tearing into mine when the honeymoon had barely started. Not enough time has passed for me to regret it…yet.

    Nice build thread, and nice work!

    At least my drivers fender has bad bondo-filled rust at the usual spot, and at least my passenger door has serious rust along the bottom and likely at the hinge jamb – the heads of two out of three bottom hinge bolts are gone, leaving just rusty stumps. And that’s just what I know about after spending next to no time looking at them given the bigger fish I’m frying. It is certainly possible that when I’m done the only original exterior sheetmetal will be the roof.
     
  5. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

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    Mar 25, 2017
    Los Angeles, CA
    Got all the rear sheetmetal pretty close on first try of final fitting. Gaps are still too big. Need bigger ratchet straps. I'm stretching my biggest ones to the max. Will also reconfigure the middle one (removed for glass test fitting) so the ratchet is over the rear glass void instead of under the car - hoping that will pull things together better. Note the two clamps on the tail panel - those are my starting point. There are recesses in the trunk floor and corresponding recesses in the tail panel that those clamps go right into and align the tail panel right where it should be - all but one of my bumper bracket holes even line up (after cutting away the interfering metal from those oversized trunk braces - you'll see how I cut them into "ovals" in a bit). The tail panel does seem a bit high and to the right w/r/t the trunk floor in the center - check out the gas filler opening - but I'm not going to worry about that as it will be hidden.

    Trickiest part will definitely be the crossrail extensions. I believe this post reflects all of the threads I found on the subject: http://nastyz28.com/threads/where-to-attach-cross-rail-extensions.258876/ Beyond the AMD pieces fitting like they were made for some other car, the big question in my head is how to keep the quarters in place at the bottoms when I pull out the tail panel. Afraid the bottoms will just collapse inward from the force of the ratchet strap. Thinking maybe I can rigidly secure the bottom edges prior to tail panel removal using something tied to the jack stands

    Still tons of work to do before I can weld. I've only drilled the drivers quarter for plug welds - took forever, but now I have a guide for the location of the holes on the other side. (And it takes a deep breath to start putting holes all over that thing!) Still need to finish prepping the cowl/dash and trunk floor, which I will prime when I backprime the quarters. It's starting to get cold here in LA (60* - brrrr!) so I'll need to pull out the space heaters to try to get everything to the recommended 70* for spraying.

    Also need to get the doors re-hung (though - how the heck am I supposed to adjust the quarter if the door cannot be made to meet up?!). Hinges are apart and ready for new bushings, pins, and detent roller (http://nastyz28.com/threads/cheaper-door-hinge-detent-roller-solution.186475/). HF blast cabinet built. I'll probably prime them (and the threaded boss for the door striker) with Eastwood 2K rattle can primer, rather than holding up priming everything else until that's ready. Will take pics of all that when I get to it.

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  6. 71RSLS

    71RSLS Veteran Member

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    Dec 5, 2017
    Prairie City, Ia
    That is looking better already even if it is mock up.
     
  7. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

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    Mar 25, 2017
    Los Angeles, CA
    So close to done with this task I can taste it (yet still far to go). Thanks!
     
    brooksman9 likes this.
  8. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

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    15
    Mar 25, 2017
    Los Angeles, CA
    More updates coming soon - should have priming done this weekend.

    Photobucket Hotlink Fix Chrome extension caused Chrome to hang. Uninstalled and am now using Photobucket Embed Fix - seems to work just as well and no side effects so far.
     
  9. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

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    Mar 25, 2017
    Los Angeles, CA
    Got everything primed with PPG DP90LV. Lots of runs this time, but it's all going to be hidden, right? Did my best to get inside the cowl with a brush but missed some spots that I'll need to revisit before the primer cures and try to avoid drops on the visible stuff. I've since hit the taped off areas with UPOL 0768. Don't have good before pics - I was very focused on getting this done this past weekend as we had an 80* heat wave here in LA.

    I had disassembled the hinges, blasted them using my HF cabinet (which did not disappoint once I made the usual mods - will post pics), primed them, and have now reassembled them. I used a kit from Classic Industries. It came with two splined larger bushings, and two smooth smaller bushings. I had to ream out two of the hinge bottom holes - on the lower hinges, I think - to make it all work. The pins were very tight in the bushings and I had to pound the crap out of them to get them to seat. They are so tight that the bushings are spinning in the hinges. (All of them, not just the ones I reamed.) So I'll have to do pins and bushings all over again, maybe using a kit from someplace else. Recommendations welcome. I'd like to get a kit that doesn't require tack welding the pins after install. I've looked a little but the info on most sites and ebay doesn't make things very clear exactly what each kit really is.

    Now I just need to get the doors back on and see how my gaps look with the quarters strapped down.

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    71RSLS likes this.
  10. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

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    15
    Mar 25, 2017
    Los Angeles, CA
    Got the doors on to check gaps (thanks to my buddy Jeff!). 2 of 3 bolts on the bottom passenger door side hinge were rusted and heads sheared off. Someone tried to drill the worse one out, but did it off center. Thankfully, they left the other one alone. Welded a nut on it. Took a few tries for the weld not to break - had to crank up the volts - and had to run a tap through the threads afterwards, but that one is good. The really bad one will have to wait until later.

    Gaps look pretty good to me! Drivers is tight at the back, but it was like that before I started, and I can just ream out the hinge bolt holes a little. That side took the hit so it may require mods to the door edges.

    I think the gaps are close enough to good that it's time to weld. After seam sealing the trunk, quarters will go on FOR THE LAST TIME!!! Clamps at the ready!

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