Camaro RS LS1 Build Thread

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by thesalboy, Jun 3, 2017.

  1. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

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    Mar 25, 2017
    Los Angeles, CA
  2. Carolina Man

    Carolina Man Member

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    Mar 18, 2017
    OK
    Looks great
     
  3. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

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    Mar 25, 2017
    Los Angeles, CA
    Looking better every day! Thanks!!

    Trunk pan and dropoffs are on the car!!!!!!!!

    I took Scott51's advice and revised the outside flanges of the trunk pan where they meet the dropoffs - pounded them flat then re-bent them with pliers, finishing the edge with hammer and dolly. Worked like a charm!

    I realized that I hadn't back-primed the bottom of the pan where the frame rails run, so I mixed up some primer and brushed it on - worked fine.

    I was just able to get to the plug welds for the trunk dropoffs, though it was a PITA. I drilled my holes a little high, worried about not having much metal left after revising the pan flange. For good measure, I also tacked on top of each plug on the topside.

    Now for hours of weld grinding fun!

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    Carolina Man likes this.
  4. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

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    15
    Mar 25, 2017
    Los Angeles, CA
    Ground all my welds down. Only had to touch up a few welds. Prepped bumper braces by drilling oversize (3/8" vs. usual 1/4") holes and drilling into the trunk pan to expose some of the frame rail underneath. Don't ask me why the holes in AMD's own bumper braces don't line up with the holes in AMD's own trunk pan (AMD tail panel holes didn't line up with either set of holes either). I got the braces lower by maybe 3/16" hammering on them, and assume I will just cut the holes into an oval opening at the end. Moving on to dash repair then prep everything for priming.

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  5. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

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    Mar 25, 2017
    Los Angeles, CA
    Strolling through build threads, I realized my base coupe does not have this inner quarter brace. Is it a V8 or Z28 only feature? Does anyone sell it? I can't seem to find it. And it doesn't seem to be included in the repop inner quarter/wheelhouse panel.

    This is JohnL71RS's car:

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    This is mine:
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  6. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

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    Mar 25, 2017
    Los Angeles, CA
    I reached out to every sheetmetal source I could think of, and no one makes that bracing panel. Some admitted to not even knowing it existed. It would be a huge task to fab it given the curve (see edits of JohnL71RS pics) and the need to avoid interfering with the quarter panel. Oh well.

    Obviously didn't get the quarters on before Turkey, but I'm closing in on it.

    I did get the dash patch panel fitted and am very, very happy with how I got it to fit. Rather than spot welding it to the substructure, and thus creating an area for water to collect again (from the factory there is a piece of foam sandwiched in there - brilliant!), I'm going to use epoxy panel adhesive. I think If I get a good bead all the way across it will act as a decent moisture barrier.

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  7. 71RSLS

    71RSLS Veteran Member

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    Dec 5, 2017
    Prairie City, Ia
    Nice transformation and great fitting of the sheet metal pieces. There is a 70-73 in a junk yard near me. I can go see if the guy will let someone cut those pieces out if they are any good on that car if you want.
     
  8. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

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    Mar 25, 2017
    Los Angeles, CA
    Thanks very much for that offer. and thanks for the kind words. I thought about trying to find them salvaged, but just think it's such a complete long shot that it's not worth it. Not all Camaros have them, even 70-73. This thread shows a 72 without them, and amargari's 73 doesn't have them either. So at least one quarter would have to be cut off, and it may be wasted effort. Then, the car would have to be in pretty good shape for them to not be rusted out. Then, they are tied into the inner jamb, roof/quarter seam, inner quarter, and outer wheelhouse. Odds are they would be substantially compromised from removal.

    I really appreciate it, but if I do anything at all I'm going to get creative and not try to recreate the panel. I was kicking around the garage (replaced my T8 fluorescents with LEDs - WOW!) and saw some large square tubing that gave me an idea (though without the curve there would be a real thin weak spot in the middle, which defeats the purpose). Watch this space. But don't be surprised if I just say to heck with it and keep moving. I can always put in a rollbar later that would probably be more effective anyway.
     
  9. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

    110
    15
    Mar 25, 2017
    Los Angeles, CA
    Crossrail installed! This one made me nervous. When test fitting the crossrail, I started by clamping the crossrail top flange to the rear trunk pan flange, but that always pulled the crossrail away from the fuel tank braces. The flanges on those braces are small and so there was no good way to pull the crossrail back to them once it was clamped at the top. I decided I had to start with the brace flanges, and finish with the top flange.

    I loosely clamped the crossrail to the brace flanges, then clamped the mid-outboard flanges of the crossrail to the bottom of the trunk pan. I wanted to make sure the crossrail was all the way up against the bottom of the trunk pan (in the middle, at least - I left the outboard flanges hanging for now) and all the way "back" against the brace flanges before welding anything. I reset and added clamps to the brace flanges and when it was all tight, welded the brace flanges. (I wasn't confident I could get plug weld holes drilled in the right place on the crossrail given how small the brace flanges are, so I drilled the brace flanges and welded from underneath the car.)

    Then I reset the clamps to weld the mid-outboard flanges of the crossrail to the bottom of the trunk pan. Then I clamped the outboard flanges of the crossrail to the bottom of the trunk pan, making sure the croassrail was also pushed back against the ends of the frame rails, clamped them too, and welded everything up.

    So the last thing to do was the crossrail top flange to the rear trunk pan flange. Given how the crossrail had reacted when test fitting, I felt it wasn't enough to just clamp the two flanges together. So first I put c-clamps on the "bulges" on each side of the crossrail to encourage the crossrail upward a bit. Then I clamped all along the flange and welded it up. Looks good, but the moment of truth will come when it's time to test fit the tail panel. Seems so close, and yet so far away...

    Also got the dash patch panel tacked in (at bottom - the top is pop riveted for now). When back-priming, I left a bare metal strip for the epoxy panel adhesive (SEM 39537).

    Pretty much out of 75/25, and need my buddy to help with welding up the top side of the dash patch panel - the long reach vise grips weigh too much and flex the panel out of shape. After the dash is finished, I'll turn to final quarter panel fitting.

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    Last edited: Dec 30, 2017
  10. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

    110
    15
    Mar 25, 2017
    Los Angeles, CA
    Dash patch panel welded in. Stripped the dash and cowl and will prime with the trunk and inner quarters. I'm guessing the cowl and dash were covered in POR15. It does not come off easily. Even with a brand new twisted knot radial disc on my electric grinder it takes some pressure to get it off. Also doing my best to strip the interior of the cowl. Using a variety of tools on a small angle grinder. Needs more work. I'll do the same Ospho-scotchbrite scrub I did before on all of this before priming. Parts of the inner cowl will just get rattle can Rustoleum or maybe a brush - too tight for a spray gun.

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