Camaro RS LS1 Build Thread

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by thesalboy, Jun 3, 2017.

  1. sickfast1964

    sickfast1964 Veteran Member

    421
    5
    Aug 26, 2012
    Corinth, Tx
    Great work so far. Just a quick tip before you weld anything. Lay the panel that covers the trunk springs in place and make sure the qtrs still line up the way you want them. Don't ask me how I know to do this. I will plead the 5th
     
  2. thesalboy

    thesalboy Member

    49
    5
    Mar 25, 2017
    Thanks for the tip!
     
  3. thesalboy

    thesalboy Member

    49
    5
    Mar 25, 2017
    I’ve now epoxy primed the areas that will be inaccessible after trunk and quarters are installed and dash is repaired. This was a major next step in the reassembly process that took forever to get done with very little visible progress along the way. Easy to get discouraged. But it’s finally done.

    I started with twisted wire brushes – cups and discs – on an angle grinder to remove dirt and the original primer. I found rust underneath that primer in many areas and got as much of it off as I could. Then I spot sandblasted the hard to get areas and nooks and crannies – behind the door jamb, inside the frame rails, underneath the package tray, around and inside the trunk hinge mounts, etc. I used the cheap portable HF blaster with my 30 gal. compressor. It was very tedious work. I don’t think my compressor can push the CFM needed for sandblasting. I started with fine (100# I think) glass bead from Summit, but it didn’t cut well enough. So I got 70# aluminum oxide from HF, which worked better. And oh what a mess!

    I then had a decision to make about prepping the metal. There were still pockets of surface rust in places like the stamping wrinkles on the wheelhouse and other places that were hard to get with the wire brushes but were too big for blasting with my setup. I decided to spritz Ospho on the panels and scrubbed with green Scotchbrite pads, wiping them down within a few minutes using clean rags and not letting the Oshpo dry in place. This took the rust off and made the panels look nice and clean. Some people express concern over using Ospho without neutralizing the phosphoric acid. I decided to spritz with PPG H2O-So-Clean (SWX350), which is waterborne, wiping the panels down with clean rags immediately. I blew the car dry and started mixing the epoxy.

    I decided on PPG DP90LV black epoxy primer. Holy cow that stuff ain’t cheap! Not being too concerned about the finish, I got the $10 (with coupon) HF spray gun, which needed to be disassembled, the parts soaked and scrubbed in warm soapy water and then blown dry, and reassembled with Teflon tape on all threads to avoid notorious leakage. It had been about 30 years since I’d used a spray gun, but it all came back and that cheap gun worked just fine once I played with the adjustments (mainly just air pressure – I think the fan and fluid adjustments were set pretty well during manufacturing). I’m happy with the results.

    Before spraying, I’d taped off my plug weld areas. I had to wait until the next morning to pull the tape. The epoxy was already very hard and it chipped and flaked off the tape as I pulled it off. But nowhere did the tape pull off adjacent paint. I guess only time will tell if the Ospho will cause some latent issue with adhesion. I’ve since sprayed the taped off areas with Upol UP0768 copper weld through primer. I missed a few spots like the wheelhouses where they will meet the quarters and will have to strip those and UP0768 them.

    I made a booth inside my garage out of sprinkler pipe and plastic tarps that worked pretty well both for blasting and priming. It breaks down and stores pretty well too. I’ll have to set it back up after trunk/drop-offs are installed, at which point I will prime that and backprime the quarters, crossrail/tail panel, and dash panel to prepare for the next phase of assembly. Hoping to get quarters on before Thanksgiving but it’s a long shot, I think. Just trying to keep my head down.
     
  4. CamarosRus

    CamarosRus Veteran Member

    Want to suggest that SPI (Southern Polyurethane) Epoxy Primer be purchased directly
    from SPI. "We" have a formula to mix Red Oxide with Black to replicate the 1970 Norwood
    shade/color.

    Suggest that UPOL Raptor be used in any areas (or complete underfloor that you want to
    hide ground weld seams etc... My 73 Project didnt have any replaced metal and I only UPOL'd
    the rear wheel house, bottom side of trunk extensions & bottom of rockers (facing the ground)

    Lastly Suggest you use PPG Delfleet Essential Single Stage Black for areas needing Black Paint
    such as Firewall, Subframe, Control Arms, Core Support, Inner Fenders, etc.... I liked "gloss" level
    of SPI Primer on undefloor so didnt top coat with PPG Black.


    imagejpeg_0.jpg imagejpeg_0001002003.jpg imagejpeg_0001002003004.jpg
     
  5. thesalboy

    thesalboy Member

    49
    5
    Mar 25, 2017
    That's some fine work you got there!

    Thanks for the tips. Especially about Raptor. I intend for this car to be driven and planned on coating the underfloor, but haven't started researching options.

    I learned about SPI after buying PPG. I only got a quart and so may switch to SPI.
     
  6. Bandit723

    Bandit723 Veteran Member

    2,251
    262
    Oct 1, 2016
    Waupaca WI
    Keep in mind that the SPI offering can be difficult to put down also you will want to check to see if the SPI paint is compatible with any other paint systems.
     
  7. thesalboy

    thesalboy Member

    49
    5
    Mar 25, 2017
    Thanks for that insight. I was very impressed with how the PPG laid down - I think I had one run. Most of these areas won't get a topcoat, except for the trunk interior, which will likely get some type of bedliner like Raptor. And that won't be happening for a while so I'm less concerned about compatibility, though I may be making incorrect assumptions. I mean, I understand a paint maker saying "You can topcoat this within 7 days with no other mechanical prep, but you have to use our stuff." I'm less inclined to believe that fully cured epoxy would be so sensitive.
     
  8. hoppin5478

    hoppin5478 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    492
    73
    Jul 20, 2015
    Tucson, AZ
    Wow, that came out really nice! I would test a small area with whatever you are going to coat it with just to be safe but in my experience I've never had a compatibility issue with the urethane based epoxies. I've used Dupont, U-pol and Summit's line with many types of paint and never had a problem.
     

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