Camaro RS LS1 Build Thread

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by thesalboy, Jun 3, 2017.

  1. brooksman9

    brooksman9 Veteran Member

    5,827
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    Jun 10, 2007
    Olive Branch, MS
    Cool and welcome. Be sure and check out MotionClone's build thread. He has already done the transition you are doing now.
     
  2. Rich Schmidt

    Rich Schmidt Veteran Member

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    Mar 27, 2010
    Denville NJ
    Great job so far. One more part that you may need is the bracket that the trunk latch bolts to. I don't know if you can reuse the 1974 one or if they repop them. Let me know if you have any questions.
     
  3. thesalboy

    thesalboy Member

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    Mar 25, 2017
    Thanks Rich, yep got that too. And trunk gutters.

    Will post pics when I've made more progress. Did some cutting yesterday on the frame rails and what's left of the trunk floor - I want to butt weld that seam so I'm trying to expose substructure all along it. Valuing all the practice I've gotten cutting on the race car using the grinder, and very impressed with my HF air saw. So good to have the right tool for the job.
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  4. thesalboy

    thesalboy Member

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    Mar 25, 2017
    Google image research into frame rail termination. Rear bumper mounts only to trunk pan, not frame rail. Frame rail terminates at cross rail. The way the end is formed, there winds up being a "flange" on inboard of rail for that weld. I'll need to cut the frame rail "flanges" (what the trunk floor welds to) off starting just behind the leaf spring eye, and notch the frame rail down to match the slope of the trunk pan. 74 frame frail is flat all the way back, but 73 frame rail slopes down to provide perch for bumper mount brackets on trunk floor. Angle iron should work to recreate the weld "flanges" though it will not look as pretty as stock, formed frame rail. Will need lots of undercoating up there to prevent rust given all the resulting nooks and crannies.

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  5. thesalboy

    thesalboy Member

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    Mar 25, 2017
    Finished cutting the "front" of the trunk and the frame rail end - as expected, and as is usual for me, I cut too much, especially on the rail. In my defense, mine were not the only eyes supervising that cutting. Nothing a welder can't fix. The overcut will actually allow me to get a good bead on the angle iron on the inside of the rail. So...I meant to do that, yeah!

    Trunk floor and dropoffs test fit. Outer edges of dropoffs do not meet outer wheelhouses (70-81 are the same, at least according to re-pops, so that's not it). Granted, wheelhouses are damaged, especially drivers, but the issue is the same on both sides, and passenger side is not damaged right there.

    Don't see how quarter will ever fit - with rear window and roof seem closely fit, it quarter wheel opening falls a good inch above the bottom lip of the outer wheelhouse. Haven't test fit passenger quarter yet. Grinding the old quarter off the inside of the roof (flipped grinding disc upside down on grinder - works great but...) takes FOREVER!

    It's like everything was made on dimensions that are slightly smaller than what they should have been...? Or do I just need to muscle the quarter on there (after massaging outer wheelhouse of course), and put a filler (e.g., 1" square tube) between trunk floor and dropoffs? No amount of muscling will fix dropoff misalignment, and I think trunk floor just doesn't come around the inner wheelhouse enough, i.e., AMD might get an F on trunk floor all around!

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  6. Scott51

    Scott51 Veteran Member

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    Jan 2, 2012
    New Zealand
    I'd get the doors aligned to the rockers, bolt on the trunk lid and focus on the rear quarters measuring as you go to check what's square/symmetrical and what isn't. Since the inner wheel arches are so banged up scribe a few reference marks and carefully trim off the damaged areas that are really fighting with your quarters. Keep the pieces you trimmed off and repair them if you can, checking the fit once you think the quarters are in the right place.

    It's one thing to massage the inner wheel arches and trunk floor but you don't want to be tweaking external panels the wrong way and end up with body lines that aren't square, glass that won't fit properly and panels that will never be properly aligned.

    Also a good time to check the 'frame' alignment (rear spring mounts in particular) and if necessary tack in some temporary braces to keep things in the right place.
     
  7. thesalboy

    thesalboy Member

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    Mar 25, 2017
    Well, I trimmed up the wheelhouses just a bit (really not at all, except where the drivers side damage was, and to prepare for clearancing for wider tires), and decided to just try to force it. I sat on the wheel arch on each quarter and each one popped over the wheelhouse without drama. Getting them off might be interesting...

    Still not sure what to do about dropoff alignment - thinking maybe I have to split them near where they meet the wheelhouses, and stretch and fill them so they align. Trunk floor doesn't seem to line up well in back (bumper mounting holes off, trunk floor bumper brackets off too) so I think it's just plain off.

    Thanks for the tips. Taking the doors off to rebuild hinges, then will work on panel alignment. Leaving doors where they were before quarter removal, bottom door gap is pretty bad - gap grows to maybe 1/2" at the quarter. Car took a hit to the rear. Might need to add metal to door bottom to make the gap right.

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  8. 7/3-SplitRS

    7/3-SplitRS Veteran Member

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    Mar 26, 2014
    Pecatonica IL
    Man I hope my rear quarters are not so bad I will have to replace them LOL. Keep up the good work! Looks like its coming together.
     
  9. Rich Schmidt

    Rich Schmidt Veteran Member

    4,097
    13
    Mar 27, 2010
    Denville NJ
    There are pieces that attach the framerails to the tail panel. They cover 3 sides of the framerail and are L shaped to weld to the cross brace. I have them out in my trailer for my car but I dont know if I can find them to take pictures.
     

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