Body panel replacement order?

Discussion in 'Body Restoration' started by skiprush, Apr 27, 2012.

  1. skiprush

    skiprush Veteran Member

    Oct 8, 2010
    washington DC
    I have just gotten all my parts from AMD and will be starting the metal work soon. I am replaceing everything from doors back, I have my car on a frame jig but am wondering the best order to follow. I plan on taking lots of measurements but I am sure it is easier to make a plan and stick to it. I was thinking this order.
    1. take off rear valance and replace center part of trunk.
    2. replace cross rail and valance but leave quarters free.
    3. replace the rear panel under the rear glass and leave free from quarters.
    4. take off and replace passenger outter wheel house, trunk drop off and quarter panel.
    5. repeat on drivers side.
    To me that sounds right but I know sometimes if you replace one part you hit a wall replaceing another part and wissh you hadnt replaced it yet.
  2. 71 Camaro

    71 Camaro Veteran Member

    Jan 10, 2007
    Holy crap, why not find a better car to begin with? Good luck man, you'll need it.
  3. dsbratton

    dsbratton Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Oct 6, 2010
    Rochester, MN
    Sometimes it is about the journey and not the destination. I say go for it!
  4. ed nash

    ed nash Veteran Member

    Nov 3, 2011
    What I Will Say Is You Need To Frist Get The Doors Lined Up . Then Remove One 1/4 At A Time Change Out Our Innner Parts Move To Other Side Then Rear Body Panle And Any Trunk Pan Repairs As Needed .this Is Al Done Using The Factory Lines As Guides So Make All Your Factory Junk Panles Line Up Befor Cutting Any Thing Off. When You Say Frame Jig You Mean Jig Table Or Rotisserie .big Difference The Table Is The Way To Go . You Can Check My Build Out Project Siknss 71 Lots Of Pics With Every Body Panle Being Changed
  5. skiprush

    skiprush Veteran Member

    Oct 8, 2010
    washington DC
    ok, maybe I need to clear up some things. I could of just patched the panels and used bondo everywhere but I am a beliver that the time and effort to say weld in a quarter patch in three differant palces then body work that its easier in the long run to replace the full quarter. agree or dissagree thats up to you as we all have a way of doing things. this isnt the first, second, or even third car I have done but I usually only do one thing and not replace alot of metal at once. this is why I asked about an order of replaceing them not how hard it was to do. Also considering the car was running and driving with the original 350/4 speed I think my investment of 4 k so far which includes the 1800 in new body parts a rather good deal.

    Ed, thanks for your input and yes I have a frame table as you called it. I used 2x3 steel and used all the factory mount points. I read alot of posts on making them and then went and made mine. I did however raise mine about 18 inches more so I can get under it better as i will not need a rotisserie as far as I can tell. The doors are perfectly lined up on the rocker and the quarter which will help when installing the new quarter.

    Dsbratton, you are right as I enjoy the time i spend working on my car and it can take one man 2 months and another 2 years to get to the same place but they are both just as happy with the end result. having a wife and kids makes me more than happy to take years to finish this as my kids 3, 8, 12 already want to help work on it so its a good time.

    Anyhow thanks for the insight
  6. zachs74Z

    zachs74Z New Member

    Nov 1, 2011
    Prince George, Va.
    If you've done several cars before, then you're way ahead of me. I say go for it - especially if your kids want to help. Mine are grown now and I can say for sure 1. You cant get this time back to do over and 2. You will look back and not regret a second you spent with them.
    I'm getting ready to start my first car with the same repairs on a rottiserie in a small garage. Sooo we will just see how it goes. Good luck. Atwell
  7. hoffmandirt

    hoffmandirt Veteran Member

    Jun 8, 2008
    Dysart, PA
    This is where I goofed up. I didn't check to see if my doors were lined up before I removed my quarters. Hopefully this doesn't cause me a ton of work.
  8. ed nash

    ed nash Veteran Member

    Nov 3, 2011
  9. Acelr8r

    Acelr8r New Member

    Feb 16, 2012
    Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
    Hey, I appreciate the discussion about body panel replacement order as I too am getting ready for the rear quarters and tailpanel replacement on my 70 Camaro. Also in the scope of to do's is install a Art Morrison rear subframe. I have asked a few people about what order to do what and have gotten several different answers.
    My thought was:
    A. Align the Doors and deck lid
    1. Cut out the old subframe and weld in the new subframe. (frames are not the same so this will be fun.
    2. Cut out inner wheel tubs and put in Detroit speed tubs
    3. Cut out one quarter at a time, install trunk drop, repair outer wheel house if needed(they look good)
    4. Do the other quarter etc.
    5. Cut out tail panel and install modified trunk pan due to frame differences
    6. Install new tail panel.

    I have the Morrison frame now and GM replacement panels for all this. Next step is building the frame jig. I have drafted up a plan with square tube stock to align the subframe but would appreciate any input you have on building one and the order I show above.
  10. Rascal

    Rascal Veteran Member

    Apr 18, 2002
    Severna Park, MD
    My .02:

    Install the Rear Light panel, etc. after the ¼ panels.

    The inner rear corners of Gen 2s are a very busy area. The Rear Cross Rail (a.k.a. inner rear panel) Extensions are welded to the trunk drop offs and the Rear Cross Rail. The ¼ panel drop off is welded to the ¼ panel lower area and the inner and outer rear panel area welded together at the lower area as well, all in the rear corner areas. In other words the inside rear corners of Gen 2s have 5 pieces/panels that need to be aligned and connected, then the seams if desired!

    What I did:
    1. During installation of ¼ panels install Trunk drop offs, drop offs should be welded to wheel housings while ¼ panels are off, not the ¼ panels

    2. Once the 1/4s are installed, less welded to the drop offs at the lower area, prop up the 1/4s with a bottle jack or something as near the Rear Light Panel as possible, this will provide a reference point for the entire Rear Light Panel installation

    3. Remove the Rear Light Panel, Rear Cross Rail and Rear Cross Rail extensions

    4. Remove, Repair, and/or Install Trunk floor if required

    5. Align, test fit, & weld Rear Cross Rail to Trunk floor, gas tank spout area, etc.

    6. Align, test fit, & weld Rear Cross Rail extensions to the Rear Cross Rail and Trunk drops

    7. Likely if you want Rear Light Panel to ¼ panel seams some modification to one, the other, or both will be required.

    8. Align, test fit, & BOLT the Rear Light Panel to the bumper bolt holes

    9. Align, test fit, & ANALYZE the ¼ panel to Rear Light Panel and Trunk Drop offs fitment, likely if you want Rear Light Panel to ¼ panel seams some modification to one, the other, or both will be required.

    10. Align, test fit, clamp, & weld the ¼ panel to Trunk Drop offs

    11. With the Rear Light Panel bolted on, “Massage” the corners (at the light holes) to the ¼ panels as required. Gaps should be equal on both sides of Rear Light Panel, hopefully about an 1/8” on each side, seam sealer is used on the gaps.

    12. Align, test fit, and clamp, the Rear Light Panel to the ¼ panel trunk drip rails

    13. Align, test fit, clamp, & weld the Rear Light Panel to the Rear Cross Rail, I drilled and welded a few spots that will be behind the bumper.

    14. Align, test fit, clamp, & weld the Rear Light Panel to the ¼ panel trunk drip rails

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