Body Bushings Replacement: How to with tips

Discussion in 'Suspension, Steering, Brake & Wheel Topics' started by sandiego74, Oct 27, 2012.

  1. sandiego74

    sandiego74 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    903
    7
    Feb 23, 2009
    San Diego, CA
    For all of those who are worried about doing this job, don't be! I have found ways through the help of others on the forum on how to do this very simple procedure. I give credit where credit is due, so thank you to Twisted Metal and Caveman Tiny.

    Things you will need:
    -Replcement bushings and hardware
    -Jack
    -Jack stands
    -Ratchet/breaker bar with a 15/16" socket
    -Torque wrench
    -3/4" wrench
    -At least 1 medium C-clamp
    -Dremel rotary tool or another metal cutting tool
    -PB BLASTER!

    Step-by-step
    1.) Soak those bolts in PB Blaster! I used a whole can in 3 days, and I just sprayed the hell out of them. Let it settle in for a few days after that, and I was good to go. Spray a lot on top of the bolt, and also on top and around the bushing.

    Here are the places I sprayed. For the position 2 (firewall bushing), there are two holes in the fender you can spray through. Use a flashlight to shine through hole #1 and spray the PB into hole #2, like so...

    [​IMG]

    Looking through the #2 hole. This is what you need to spray.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    For position 3 (floorboard bushing), you can spray into the holes on either side of the bolt.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Depending on how much rust your car has, it may take more PB and a longer amount of time. Like I said, after a week, I started working on the bolts.

    2.) I started at position 3 first, which loosened up very easily. One at a time, I took them all the way out, cleared the rust, then put them back in about 1/2". If the cage nut breaks loose here, DON'T GUT YOUR INTERIOR AND CUT YOUR FLOORS! Using an idea from Caveman Tiny, I decided to expand the hole next to the bushing to fit a long object (I used the 3/4" wrench) on top of the cage nut.

    [​IMG]

    This actually worked on keeping the cage nut down when it started to spin. Hopefully it will work for others.

    [​IMG]

    For position 2, I broke each lose and took the passenger side bolt all the way out (it doesn't matter which side you start with). If the cage nuts spin on you here, DON'T REMOVE YOUR INNER FENDER WELLS! Just look for this hole above the bushing. It's the same hole you sprayed PB into earlier, just from a different angle...

    [​IMG]

    You can get a clamp on top of the cage nut through the hole like this...

    [​IMG]

    3.) Next, I used the bolt that I removed from the bushing and put it into the hole next to it. You may have to thread the bolt in. This will keep the body and subframe aligned when jacking the body up and down.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. sandiego74

    sandiego74 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    903
    7
    Feb 23, 2009
    San Diego, CA
    4.) Place a jack with a small piece of wood under where the firewall metal meets the floorboard metal (look for overlapping metal). Jack up the body enough to get the old bushings up and out of the groove they sit in.

    [​IMG]

    5.) Put in the new bushings according to how you want to have your body sit on the subframe. Stock height (how I did it) requires the thick bushings in between the body and frame and the skinnier one below for positions 2 and 3. Position 1 (Radiator support) is just the opposite. Once they are in on one side, thread the new bolt in about half way, then do the exact same thing on the other side to put in the other two.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    7.) Tighten the bolts nice and snug so the subframe does not shift during the next step.

    6.) We still need to do position 1. This bushing requires more work than the other two. Depending on the year of your Camaro, your steps will probably be a little different. Here's what I had to encounter. First remove everything in the way of the bushings.

    Battery Tray
    [​IMG]

    Bumper and supports

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    7.) I didn't worry about PB Blaster here. Just used a 3/4" wrench to stop the nut on the bottom from spinning, and I eventually got the bolt out.

    [​IMG]

    8.) You'll have to lift the body to get the lower bushings out. I just placed my jack under the radiator support and that worked just fine.

    [​IMG]

    You'll need about this much room to get the old ones out.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. sandiego74

    sandiego74 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    903
    7
    Feb 23, 2009
    San Diego, CA
    9.) Again depending on your year, you might not run into this next problem. The hole for the bushings is not large enough to fit the metal support sleeve, so it needs to be opened up. I used a Dremel rotary here, which worked very well.

    [​IMG]

    Once the hole is opened up enough, drop in the sleeve, and add the rest of the parts accordingly.

    [​IMG]

    10.) Torque both Position 1 bushings to 35-45 ft lbs.
    [​IMG]

    11.) Torque Position 2 and 3 bolts to around 90-100 ft lbs. You're done!

    BUT! If you find that once you get to step 11 and your subframe is NOT lined up with the body, I found a simple fix.

    First, loosen up the Position 1 bolts to allow some movement of the subframe. Then, place two jacks under each side of the body in the same spot where we jacked up the car earlier. While the body is lifted, loosen up the Position 2 and 3 bolts so that the subframe is slighty hanging on them. Stick a ratchet extension or similar object (screwdriver) into the alignment hole. As you can see, my subframe was pretty far off.

    [​IMG]

    Push/pull/jiggle/wrestle the subframe around until the extension is straight. I was suprised with how easy it was to correct a misaligned subframe.

    [​IMG]

    On to the subframe connectors...
     
  4. Zmac

    Zmac New Member

    7
    0
    Jul 16, 2010
    Escondido, CA
    Thanks for the write up. I'm planning on doing this job in a couple of weeks, so this will be a big help. I took advantage of Summit's sale and ordered the Hotchkis TVS system. It looks like you are installing solid bushings. I'll be installing sub frame connectors and not sure which bushings to use. Won't those solid bushings give a harsh ride?
     
  5. Lowend

    Lowend Administrator. .a car, a man, a maraca. Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

    14,120
    173
    Mar 25, 1999
    San Jose, CA, USA
    Good tips - I'll add this to the sticky
     
  6. POS71RS

    POS71RS Moderator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

    10,320
    0
    Aug 21, 2002
    Central Coast, CA
    Done. Yesterday.
     
  7. sandiego74

    sandiego74 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    903
    7
    Feb 23, 2009
    San Diego, CA
    Thanks for adding this as a sticky. Hope it helps others out.

    Zmac, from what I've heard, the ride comfort does not change. Many have said they tighten it up and also get rid of a lot of shake in the dash and cabin. Once you see you're old bushings, you'll see why solid bushings would be a much better idea over rubber or poly.
     
  8. patpkk

    patpkk Veteran Member

    168
    0
    Jul 21, 2008
    Ontario, Canada
     
  9. sandiego74

    sandiego74 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    903
    7
    Feb 23, 2009
    San Diego, CA
    patpkk It was slightly different on each side. On the driver's side, which required the most grinding, was opened up about 1/8" or so. It doesn't take much, and it's very easy to keep the shape round.
     
  10. phat80

    phat80 Veteran Member

    961
    3
    Jan 4, 2013
    Victoria BC
    Awesome

    Man I'm just amazed at the depth of the gene pool on this Forum. You guys are a clever bunch of monkeys I must say. Thanks for all the info.

    I'm going to do mine as soon I get a "round tuit"

    Larry
     

Share This Page