Blueprint 383 Crate Motor Failure

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting & Diagnosis' started by 70ZFORME, Apr 29, 2015.

  1. 70ZFORME

    70ZFORME New Member

    Jul 25, 2013
    Northern Kentucky
    I have always built engines for my cars. However I have been working on my car for a year and wanted to drive it this year so to save time i bought a blueprint crate engine. I followed the manufacturer installations instructions to the letter. Primed engine, set timing and installed a previous tuned carb. Engine survived the 30 minute break in and the oil was crystal clean. Ran it with rotella 15w40 and Lucas break in. Changed it after 30 minutes just to be sure it was clean. Engine had some residual in it when I received it so I am confident it was dynoed. Changed oil after break in with the recommended rotella oil. I have been driving it every nice day to reach the 500 mile break in period because I was excited to get on it. 80lbs of pressure cold and 30 hot. Today I eclipsed the 300 mile mark and the engine has performed flawlessly. Starts great and runs cool and shows glimmers of excellence, no ticks, no bangs, no smoke. As soon as you start getting around 3000 rpms it wakes up. I havent taken it above 3500 because I was following the book for easy driving in the initial break in. However with every race car I have ever built it is balls to the wall on the first crank. Driving today on the way home from work and coming to a stop a heard a little rattle. Looked down to see 8lb of oil pressure on my dakota gauges tapped the gas and it popped back up. I wasnt too concerned because they are electronic gauges and I didnt trust them. Went straight home and hooked up a mechanical gauge. Sure enough 9lb of pressure on idle but it wasnt rattling anymore. I dropped the filter and immediatley was shocked at what I saw. Silver oil. I drained the pan and the oil has so much metal in it, it was unbelivable. Changed the oil for the third time hoping to save the engine and still no pressure. I am sure whatever came loose has already trashed my brand new motor. Any ideas, I have never had one come apart that far into the break in period. I have thrown engines together with used pistons and rods and crank into a block with a big cylinder ridge and never had anything like this happen. I am so disgusted I am sick to my stomach. Any ideas what could have caused my issue. I am not going to tear down the engine because it should be under warranty. I am just looking to see if anyone else out there has had issues with blueprints and how they do their warranty claims. I want to drive my car. I have worked on it non stop for a year.
  2. camarolife78

    camarolife78 Veteran Member

    Jul 22, 2014
    Gardner, KS
    If it is a flat tappet cam motor, my guess is the cam let go and it wiped the bearings out...I would all blueprint and see if you can get them to warranty it. Personally I wouldn't use Rotella oil since most recent versions do not have much ZDDP zinc. I have used VR1 racing oil, it has higher levels with great luck. Just had a new motor built, opted for the Roller cam because of situations like this...

    I would definitely call blueprint tho...

    JONESYFXR Veteran Member

    Oct 10, 2009
    I never liked Blueprint engines. Had a very close friend wipe a cam with under 500 miles and neither the company or Jegs would help out the 19 year old.
  4. COPO

    COPO Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Sep 15, 1999
    Ontario, Canada
    NO oils will save today's crappy steel on a FT engine, that's why I went roller after losing 2 solid lifter cams. The last SL cam I lost I used Joe Gibbs BR oil for break-in then Joe Gibbs 10w-30 Hot Rod oil then Val VR1 racing for the street and still lost a lobe.
  5. BluePrint

    BluePrint New Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Mar 7, 2011

    Please give us a call at 1-800-483-4263 or you can contact me directly here with your engine serial number and we would be more than happy to open up a warranty claim on this issue you are having. I apologize for this issue because it sounds like you did follow our break-in procedures exactly how we laid them out. We are here to help!


    Would you be able to provide me with any more information on your friends engine? I would like to look into this issue for you.

    Thank You,

    Andrew Obermeier
    BluePrint Engines
    Product Specialist
  6. Camaro75LT

    Camaro75LT Masshole Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

    May 17, 2001
    BluePrint, although not an official sponsor of nastyZ28, has always helped out members with questions and concerns brought up over the last few years. Please keep us updated on how this turns out.
  7. kimosabi

    kimosabi Veteran Member

    Oct 7, 2013
    It's not just the oil. Flat tappets need to have correct camshaft end play, lifters correct size to bores. Little bit off and the lifter won't spin and/or run on the high side of the lobe as it should.

    I suspect those two elements are not checked in todays crates.
  8. COPO

    COPO Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Sep 15, 1999
    Ontario, Canada
    ^Maybe they haven't been taught that in xxx Co. ^
  9. Wadd2

    Wadd2 Veteran Member

    Aug 27, 2013
    Shelton, Nebraska
    I can't believe they recommend that you use Rotella. Go over to Stevesnovasite and read the epic mile long thread on oils and zinc. Many tests done in there. If they recommended Rotella it's on them. It does not have enough Zinc. Joe Gibbs, Brad Penn, and Comp Cams Muscle Car Oil is all I use. I have 3 flat tappet engines running as of yesterday with new break in of a Pontiac 400. No issues. One has 5000 miles on it, one has 500, and the new break in yesterday. If specs are right on the engine, and the right oil is used, flat tappets will survive.
  10. Gary S

    Gary S Administrator Lifetime Gold Member

    Apr 14, 1999
    Bismarck, North Dakota
    I don't know much about Rotella oils, but from what I can find on their site, most of their oils are diesel oils. It doesn't make much sense to use a diesel oil in a gas engine when there are hundreds of oils made with additive packages expressly for gas engines and API rated for use in gas engines.
    Check the bottles of the oil you used and if they don't have a gas engine rating, don't use them again in a gas engine.
    There is a reason that gas and diesel oils have different ratings. The engines have different needs. Find an oil rated for gas engines, or gas and diesel engines.

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