Be prepared, C-Prepared Autocross (1981 Camaro)

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by 1981paul, Sep 11, 2008.

  1. 68400BIRD

    68400BIRD Veteran Member

    Feb 7, 2006
    Great work on the car
    I used the POR Chevy Orange on my block many years ago. It held up great. I had mine sprayed on but you can brush it on also.
    1981paul and John Wright like this.
  2. 1981paul

    1981paul Moderator Staff Member

    I went with brushing because I was too lazy to mask things up that well (or take things apart). Did you have to thin it to spray?
  3. 1981paul

    1981paul Moderator Staff Member

    Had a busy weekend that didn't leave a whole lot of time for the car, but I did manage to knock out a few small projects that needed to be done before paint.

    First was finishing the clearance notches in the rear frame section. These are necessary to allow the bolts that hold the lower links and shocks on the rear axle to move freely through suspension travel. Because such a big chunk was coming out of the framework, I also took a piece of angle and tried to stiffen up the bit with the deeper cut.


    I also made caps for the original frame bits. This is mainly to clean things up, but it also gives me a nice surface to mount things, like brake lines (and you can see the tab I added for one of those). Because some of this would be hard to reach with a paint gun later, I hit the inside with Rustoleum "cold galvanizing" paint because the internet said it was as good as weld-through primer: sometimes the internet is wrong. The paint conducted just fine, but each tack was a shower of sparks (with some finding their way to places you don't want sparks). The welds are strong enough for what it needs to do, but they aren't pretty.


    I've also been chipping away on little things for the motor so it's ready to drop in. A few brass plugs for the intake and thermostat housing arrived, as did a shiny new oil cap.


    That's all for now!
  4. Scott51

    Scott51 Veteran Member

    Jan 2, 2012
    New Zealand
    :eek: that's a lot of strength taken out of that lower rear frame section, kinda defeats the purpose of those beefy watts link? mounts and the gussets/braces you've installed.

    How about cutting off the kicked up sections of the factory rear frame rails, sliding some RHS or SHS into the remaining straight sections, and stepping it in to give you the clearance you need without changing the cross-sectional width of the box section?
  5. 1981paul

    1981paul Moderator Staff Member

    It looks a lot worse in pictures than it actually is, but it is something I'm thinking about.

    Per the rules, I can't remove any more of the existing factory rear frame rails than I already have. I may decide to sister the notched bits of square tubing to better strengthen things back there.

    Thanks for pointing that out!
  6. 1981paul

    1981paul Moderator Staff Member

    No great photos of the out of position welding I had to do, but it was mostly finishing up the flanges for the trans tunnel, etc.

    I did build this panel and welded the mounts to the firewall. This will go under the dash, where the heater box used to be. Should keep things dry and away from heat.


    The quick connects will make it easy to service, and the power distribution block there will be used to trigger anything that needs an ignition signal from the dash.

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