Any Tips For Left Front Inner Fender Removal?

Discussion in 'Body Restoration' started by chevyles, Dec 29, 2017.

  1. chevyles

    chevyles Veteran Member

    170
    0
    Sep 12, 2000
    Bay area, CA
    I'm in the middle of building a little stroker motor for my '70 Z28. While the engine bay is empty I thought I'd patch a 3/4" hole near the top of the driver's side inner fender. I figured I'd have the repair done, shoot it with some fresh paint while it's out and then do the same removal/paint process on the passenger side. The paint is still the factory coat and, considering that, is not too bad but it's really never going to look good again no matter what I do to it.

    So far I have the LF wheel off and all the bolts for the L inner fender out. If it wasn't attached to the tray below the charcoal cannister it would be out already. The problem is that the length with that piece attached is not allowing me to snake the assembly out. It's loose and moves freely, but it's not really feeling close to coming out. So will I also need to remove the plate that the rearmost lower area bolts to? I'm hoping somebody has done this and can make sense of what I'm describing without photos. If not, I can shoot some photos tomorrow and post them.

    Also, there are 2 factory plastic straps that hold wiring to the fender, one towards the front and one to the rear. Is there a way to pop those up without destroying them? Almost all of that stuff is original on this car and I'd like to keep it that way as much as possible.

    While I'm at it, are there any tips for the other side? I haven't even looked at that yet. If I can't get these guys out I'll probably just scuff and shoot them where they are. Not optimal but probably do-able. Thanks!
     
  2. budro6968

    budro6968 Veteran Member

    1,840
    250
    Apr 2, 2016
    Jax Florida
    It is pretty straight forward remove all the bolts and it should come out with a little pulling and tugging. Half of mine snapped off around the outer edge and the one that is into the core support was rusted so bad that the nut that is welded to the core support just spun. I had to cut a hole on the front to get a pair of vise grips on it then I could wrench the bolt out. Both sides were like that. The plastic loom holders should just pull out with a pair of needle nose or use side cutters as on a claw hammer and pop it up. If the plastic is still good they will come out easy. If not they snap.
     
  3. CorkyE

    CorkyE Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    9,203
    214
    Nov 4, 2004
    Ringgold, GA
    Getting ready to change engine in mine, just dropped both inner fenders. Like said above, it's a pretty straight forward job. Remove anything attached inside the engine bay and the inner bolts first, leave one outside bolt on the top attached until last. Just be careful when you rotate it out around the a-arms not to scratch the paint. Good luck with this.
     
  4. NOT A TA

    NOT A TA Veteran Member

    172
    43
    Feb 12, 2009
    Delray Beach Florida
    Usually easiest to lift the front of the inner fender onto the frame and slide forward a little then pop the rear of the inner fender wheel opening past the fender lip, then rotate out.
     
  5. chevyles

    chevyles Veteran Member

    170
    0
    Sep 12, 2000
    Bay area, CA
    Thanks to all. I used something from what each of you said to help wrestle it out. Part of my problem was that I couldn't get the charcoal canister bracket unbolted without doing some disassembly of the hydroboost system to get those lines out of the way- and I didn't want to do that. So I loosened the canister bracket and cinch bolt and massaged things just enough to make room. Jacking the car higher to gain clearance helped as it started coming out. Also, the outside rear corner of that tray didn't want to slide past the small body panel below the actual fender. I'm not sure what to call the body panel but it's below the bumper and turns the corner to meet the bottom fender line. Anyway, I've already trimmed the corner of the tray to make it easier to slide back in. I'll get it back next week and we'll see just how much good that did.

    Now I have a bunch of cleaning and painting to do throughout the engine bay. Thanks again guys!

    By the way, I have a lot of unmolested areas on this car- I'm the original owner. It's been modded in some ways but it's never been cut up in any way and it's rust free. If anybody wants photos of a particular area to see how it came from the factory I'll be happy to post some up.
     

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