81z tips for "painless" rewire kit

Discussion in 'Electrical Systems' started by Angie, Dec 3, 2017.

  1. Angie

    Angie New Member

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    Jun 27, 2014
    Vancouver, bc
    For her birthday (Angie's) I bought her car a painless wire kit "20114" (Headlights to tails and everything in between) I am not in a hurry to do the job and understand it is NOT a 2 hour job... lol.

    Her car is stripped down as she is in the process of doing the paint and rebuilding the inside (bare so all is easy to get at).

    350 with 4 speed. what I want to ask, from those who have installed the kit, are there any tips and tricks you can recommend that you learned from your experience doing the wire job? I understand what is needed to do with wiring and the such.

    what will be different (or changed added) larger alt 140 amp, deleting the cig lighter and using that circuit for usb plug, electric fan(s) with relays. Vacuum gauge, added temp gauge, all lights will be led and she wants halo headlights, 2 power amp (1 for bass and 1 for mid high) stereo set up with single remote switch for power up. secondary push button horn added. Ground kill switch from battery for storage. and possible anti theft remote (Angie still on fence for this).

    thanks for any thoughts or suggestions.
     
  2. Squeaky192

    Squeaky192 Veteran Member

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    Aug 19, 2014
    Fort Worth, TX
    Angie,

    As far as the 140 amp alternator, that kit has a 6 gauge charge wire so you won't need to worry one bit as far as that goes. The cig lighter wiring is just a power and ground, so you'll just wire it into the USB plug the same way, potentially using just spade connectors if it's like others I've seen. The fans will only require a 12V ignition hot source wire to the relay's 12V activation, otherwise they will wire directly to the battery, and will likely ground activate off of a thermostatic switch or just a manual switch depending what kit you have/how you want to go about it. If you call our tech line at 1-800-423-9696 they can help you square away the best way to get 12V ignition hot to the relays.

    As far as LED lights, you'll have to source an LED flasher for the hazards and blinders to work properly. LED's don't have enough of a load to trip a mechanical flasher relay. Secondary push button for horn will be easy, the horn is just ground activated, so you can just tap into the horn wiring and run a switch from it to ground. We have a neat battery kill solenoid that allows you to just hide a small momentary on/off switch and kill battery power that way. The anti-theft alarm you'll have to follow their instructions. You can also always pull the coil fuse to keep the car from firing as an extra step for anti-theft.
     
  3. Squeaky192

    Squeaky192 Veteran Member

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    Aug 19, 2014
    Fort Worth, TX
    Looking again, page 22 of the manual will explain pinning out the bulkhead to get you your ignition hot activation for the fan relay setup.
     
  4. junkyardZ28find

    junkyardZ28find Veteran Member

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    Mar 4, 2012
    des moines, iowa
    What kind of fan(s) are you using? There are many methods to wiring a fan or fan(s) to take advantage of lower amp draws that aftermarket kits can't supply. A single fan relay was adequate 10 years ago at best-depending on your fan there is a myriad of options and none are very difficult to integrate into what you have now.
     
  5. 80sz

    80sz Veteran Member

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    Feb 2, 2014
    Buffalo,n.y.
    Your kit has fan relay(activation) built in and have extra circuts to run more accesories like the USB.
     
  6. Twisted_Metal

    Twisted_Metal Administrator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

    26,128
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    Feb 26, 2004
    Bloomington, MN
    The stereo...
    It can be done internally to the amp(s) with a sensing circuit or a completely manual operation with a switch in the car.
    This would most likely be a completely separate addition to the painless kit as the amplifiers' amperage draw will dictate the size of the power and ground wires.

    I ran mine directly to the battery with an inline fuse and the head unit triggers the amps to power up.
     
  7. Squeaky192

    Squeaky192 Veteran Member

    167
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    Aug 19, 2014
    Fort Worth, TX
    Yep, any amps will need to have their power directly from the battery and in-line fused like stated. Any aftermarket head unit will have a blue "amp activation wire" that you can run back to the amp to give it it's 12V ignition trigger.

    You will also need RCA's from the head unit to the amplifier(s), so I would suggest just buying an amp wiring kit. Generally, they are rated off the peak or RMS watt rating on the amp, but generally are either 8 or 4 gauge (sometimes 0 gauge, but I doubt you're going that crazy). If you do one of these kits, do a little research and get a good brand/read reviews. When I used to work at an audio shop in high school on the side/during college a bit, I don't know how many times people came in with eBay special amp wiring kits that claimed to be 4 gauge or 8 gauge, but were much lesser and just had extra insulation to look larger.
     
  8. badazz81z28

    badazz81z28 Veteran Member

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    May 4, 2001
    Las Vegas, NV
    Its a pretty straight forward job. The only PIA are wires that are too short that you'll have to cut a splice and connectors with odd length power and grounds (again cut and re-splice). The biggest pain is the gauge cluster connector. All those wires were horribly cut to improper lengths, I ended up diking them all off.
     
  9. Jim Streib

    Jim Streib https://www.flickr.com/photos/121766713@N04/albums

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    Apr 6, 2004
    Saint Louis, MO USA
    Bringing a car electrically on-line for the first time can be nail biter as you never know if things might be just fine or there could be an issue or issues with things (even though your parts "May" be new and one assumes they work properly right out of the box).

    I would get a meter to see what current draws you have and then compare this to what the actual current draws should be.

    Like anything else, I have found out after doing a job, I come back to it later and go over things that I might not have been seen the first time around. We are all human and sometimes too a fresh set of eyes from another person might see something that was not seen by yourself.

    There are ways with test fuses or with an amp meter to get an idea as to what is gong on before damage can occur to the wiring or parts.

    Jim
     
  10. Angie

    Angie New Member

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    Jun 27, 2014
    Vancouver, bc
    Thanks for all the replies, sorry for not answering sooner.

    Squeaky192. The fans will be both auto on and a switched bypass run if needed or in case of any failure.

    The LED flasher source is interesting. I have never heard of that before, (any info you can supply as to where to look? I have placed LED runners into my pinto and that could explain why thy seem to fluctuate in brightness at times) Who makes the kit?

    the battery kill is it remote? if so can you supply a part number? thanks

    Junkyard... as for the fans, there are 2 that the PO had in there spaghetti wired to 3 different relays and 2 temp gauges and who knows what. plan is to simplify the works with 1 relay run off the auto temp sensor and a direct power switch for back up.

    80SZ, thanks. as reading the instructions, I have learnt all the options that can be installed!!

    TwistedMetal, Squeaky, sound system is fairly straight forward - will be powered directly from batt, will be getting a separate junction box from summit (6 circuit fuse box) here is another project of mine.

    http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168499

    Badazz, Ya, that is the only area that I am afraid of, the cluster.... those thin wired (in the film) circuits. by know someone could have redone that area to make it more tougher to be handled. PO had that area apart a couple times and (1 of main reasons for the complete rewire job) the speedo cable gave him 2 stop workings and the tach is shot with not working properly (factory) all under dash is a bowl of spaghetti and easier to start over than fix whats there. when you redid it, did you just butt connect and add more length? or did you go back to the fuse box/plug and rewire the complete line?

    Jim, thanks for the great idea of new eyes... and will be using pink highlighter pen to mark off in instructions what is complete as it gets done... plus ball point pen for the "new added" wires and extra stuff that will be added.

    cheers guys and thanks for the replies
     

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