Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by Jeep43, Jan 23, 2018.
You know ... people who get so much done in a short time really p!ss me 0ff!
LOL, the thread is misleading. The work started a year ago. I figured I'd post up some pics I saved over time. But now the pics reflect how it sits today. Lately I think I have been moving fast. Hopefully the pics keep flowing fast enough to keep it interesting.
I have a gasket between the air box and the firewall too on the engine side. I am not sure if either are 100% correct but they came in a heater box seal kit I bought on ebay.
Exhaust manifolds are on and so is the engine compartment wiring.
I drilled and tapped the AIR injection ports for NPT plugs and ground down the bumps in the port openings. I also ground the outlet to blend the casting with the machine work. Kinda like bowl blending a head. The rest I couldn't reach. I also cut up a exhaust crossover valve and opened it up to match the manifold opening. I'm using Pypes down pipes which look real nice. I set the manifolds on a granite block and while the pass side was perfect, the drivers, I could get a .008" feeler gauge under the center flange. I decided to assemble with no gaskets and used a little ultra copper. Hopefully the bolts will tweak it flat enough against the head.
I disassembled the front light and engine harnesses. I had to patch up some shoddy wire repairs on the front light harness (twisted and tape wires..) and the engine harness was stripped of the TCS stuff.
For some weird reason this car had no wire running from the #1 terminal to the firewall despite the schematic showing one running from that terminal with RPO U14 which I have. Instead what I found was the socket in the firewall connector clogged with the thick molasses like dielectric sealant like it was never there and a cobbled jumper by a former owner. The #2 was there and ran to the + junction post but one of the previous owners jumped the #1 to the charge lug by stuffing the stripped end of a wire into the empty alternator plug socket an twisting it around the charging wire. I am not sure what this accomplished if anything so I added the correct wire. Maybe the few times I drove the car before it lunched a rod bearing, I wasn't charging, just running off of batt....
After fixing the wiring issues, I replaced the convoluted loom with new and reused the original loom Tees and other stuff.
Tomorrow I pick up bumper bracket parts from the sandblaster and will throw a coat of epoxy primer followed by a coat of blitz black.
Battering ram engaged!!!
The AMK master body kit came in handy here for quick assembly of the painted brackets. I'm feeling uneasy about hanging weathered sheetmetal off of this but to get on the road this season its the only option. Patina'd exterior, like new underneath.
That brings me to this weekends task. To cut out some sheetmetal rot on the original pass side fender (drivers is a repop) and weld in a patch. It's isolated to just the lower area and an aftermarket patch will be perfect for this. Once repaired, I'll spray bomb it with a custom touch up rattle can and hope it blends good enough. I'm still going to have to live with some rust perfs in the lower qtrs until I tackle those next winter.
Great job, love the build !
So I started to tackle the fender patch today. I'm not painting the car yet and it has some holes in the 1/4's but since the fender was off, I figured I'd patch it.
So my kid stripped the area down to see what i was dealing with.
I was amazed at the amount of surface rust stains under paint that wasn't bubbling (yet). When I paint this car, I'm going to have to strip it all down to metal...
Off came the lower section. (Pro tip, don't slip and drive a spinning spot weld cutter into the palm of your hand) I mechanically stripped as much of the rust I could off of the inner brace and treated it with Picklex 20.
Since the fender patches available today are as featureless as a Barbie doll, I decided to patch the patch with the stamped mounting locations. The small bits were easily stripped in the blast cabinet.
The patch and the forward lower fender reinforcement have a coat of weld-thru primer drying so I can join them. Tomorrow I'm mate the modified patch to the fender.
Another pro tip, don't jam your thumb in to a flap disc while cleaning up welds on patches.....
All joking aside it looks fantastic. I built mine on a budget as well and like you I was determined to have a car as nice as the expensive builds by doing all the work myself. Keep up the great work!
Other than a blob of molten steel burning through my sneaker, sock and top of my foot, I avoided more injuries.
I did install the patch by first lining up the bottom geometry to the internal framework and then butt welding it to the existing panel. The width of the patch was about 1/8" or more wider than the original fender, so while the edge that formed the wheel well lined up with the existing steel the door jam side was bulged out. So I had to zip off the back edge, trim and reweld to mate everything back up.
I'm happy with how it came out (disregard the ratty looking bottom edge, its a mix of EDP primer, heat and grind marks). I'm going to shoot it with a coat of epoxy primer and install the fender before applying a little hammer and dolly work and filler. Then I am just going to have my local paintshop whip me up a single stage spraybomb to match as best as I can and place a hard tape line at the body line just north of the patch.
This fender will get fully blasted when the car gets torn back down for proper paint in a couple of years.
Looks really good.
Once you’ve feathered the repaired patched area with filler primer etc. I’d wet sand up to the body crease then mask along the top of the crease with about 1/4” overhang to get a soft edge that’s easy to blend when you spray the last few coats. A quick buff and the body line will really help disguise the repair as long the colour match is ok.
I shot the repair with epoxy primer and then finished up with "Autozone body and paint" aka single stage aerosols. I've always used 2k stuff in the past but this was a temporary fix so this was interesting. I applied filler over the epoxy & blocked it out. I used self etch on any metal I exposed followed by a bunch of duplicolor filler primer. Considering the appearance of the rest of the car, oxidation, bubbling cleatcoat on the roof rust in the 1/4's I tried not to do too good of a job on purpose. LOL
Somebody put a 75+ header panel on that had the emblem. Since I have the correct 74 grill and emblem I decided to fill and smooth the header panel.
The color coat was transtar base loaded in a spray can. I had the paint shop scan the color and the first mix came out bronze looking. The second was just a match for the paint code 74. It came out close enough. I scotchbrited the clear outside the repair area to accept the new clear and tried my best to blend in the basecoat with a spray can. A little spattery but acceptable. Then I laid on 3 wet coats of Upol clear.
Where I screwed up was not sealing the filler I used on the header panel. I just wetsanded it smooth with 600. The problem is the base sucked into the filler and altered the metallic flake so you can see witnesses of the 3 holes and the square emblem indent up close. (can't see it in this photo). Again, considering the rest of the car is a 10 footer, I'm probably going to not mess with it.
Since the clear is single stage I am going to wait a while before colorsanding and buffing the clear blend line. I'm going to finally disassemble my pop up spray booth to gain much needed garage space and start hanging the panels. I'll cut and buff on the car.